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aps twin vent bov

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Old May 21, 2009 | 01:36 PM
  #16  
Jim in Tucson's Avatar
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From: Tucson, Arizona, USA
Originally Posted by Kdash106
we talking about motor oil? i heard we should use them mobile 1 grease.
Yep, Mobile One 10w30. Works good in Arizona; can't speak for other locales.

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Old May 21, 2009 | 05:26 PM
  #17  
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From: Chicago
Originally Posted by Jim in Tucson
...on your car.

Looks a little different with stock type I/C plumbing.

Good point, basically you want the side port to vent back into your intake pipe and the bottom port to connect to the pressure source (intercooler pipe). I personally use Mobil 1 lithium grease and haven't had any issues with my APS DV. The only time it would flutter is in really cold weather and then it would be fine once the engine heated up.
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Old May 21, 2009 | 07:32 PM
  #18  
Jim in Tucson's Avatar
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From: Tucson, Arizona, USA
Originally Posted by Creamo3
I personally use Mobil 1 lithium grease and haven't had any issues with my APS DV. The only time it would flutter is in really cold weather and then it would be fine once the engine heated up.
Prolly 'cause the grease was cold. Since the APS does not touch any hot parts, it takes a wee bit to warm up.

I think I'll look for the Mobile One grease. Did you find that at an auto parts retail chain? I don't think I've ever seen it.

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Old May 21, 2009 | 08:26 PM
  #19  
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From: Chicago
Originally Posted by Jim in Tucson
Prolly 'cause the grease was cold. Since the APS does not touch any hot parts, it takes a wee bit to warm up.

I think I'll look for the Mobile One grease. Did you find that at an auto parts retail chain? I don't think I've ever seen it.

Exactly, this is what I use and can get it at any autoparts store: http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...ic_Grease.aspx
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Old May 22, 2009 | 12:00 AM
  #20  
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From: Cleveland
just loosin the bolt and tell us what happens
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Old Mar 9, 2010 | 11:12 PM
  #21  
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Reviving a thread from the dead.

I've been tinkering with my APS dual vent and come to the conclusion that Mobil 1 grease works great. But, get in the habit of doing a re-lube at every oil change.

As for adjustments.....If you watch the valve at idle you can see the little piston inside move ever so slightly. Tighten the adjustment nut until the valve stops moving at idle.

If the valve is moving at idle you will have idle issues. Once the valve is stationary, you will be set for your application.
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Old Mar 10, 2010 | 01:12 AM
  #22  
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How do you apply the grease. The guy with the oil said he was just puting it in the external outlet.. Do you have to pull the bov apart to use the grease?
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Old Mar 10, 2010 | 06:22 AM
  #23  
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From: Northern KY near Cincy
Yes, it is very easy to take apart. Just clean the heck out of it and re-grease it.
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Old Mar 10, 2010 | 06:30 AM
  #24  
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From: D
Originally Posted by Appauldd
Reviving a thread from the dead.

I've been tinkering with my APS dual vent and come to the conclusion that Mobil 1 grease works great. But, get in the habit of doing a re-lube at every oil change.

As for adjustments.....If you watch the valve at idle you can see the little piston inside move ever so slightly. Tighten the adjustment nut until the valve stops moving at idle.

If the valve is moving at idle you will have idle issues. Once the valve is stationary, you will be set for your application.
Thanks for this info. I have the APS and have never done any PM to it. This would probably be a good idea at this point.
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Old Mar 10, 2010 | 06:58 AM
  #25  
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From: Louisiana
i bought my aps used and have not touched it at all period and its working find as far as i know. I guess when im doing this motor build since it will be out ill rip it apart and regease it then but again im not sure what happens if you dont touch it and let it do its thing
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Old Mar 10, 2010 | 07:01 AM
  #26  
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From: Northern KY near Cincy
The factory grease is very sticky and almost glue like. Over time it gets dirty (problem with an open vent) and the valve actions will slow down. Periodic maintenance to keep it well lubed will make it operate better and react much quicker.
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Old Mar 10, 2010 | 09:51 AM
  #27  
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From: middletown
to bad the op sold his car but i remeber hearing it drive by man did that thing flutter like a b**ch.
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 04:01 PM
  #28  
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I just picked up one of these APS valves. I took it apart, fully cleaned out all of the old grease, and re-lubed it with the suggested mobil1 synthetic grease. I teflon taped the adjustment screw since I heard there is a potential for leaks there. After all this, I'm having issues with it.

I tried multiple adjustments of the preload screw and they all act the same...very bad flutter and what sounds to be a little turbo surge. The flutter is at all boost / load levels while the surge seems to occur only with higher boost.

Any suggestions?
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 06:04 AM
  #29  
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From: SATown
Originally Posted by jyamona
I just picked up one of these APS valves. I took it apart, fully cleaned out all of the old grease, and re-lubed it with the suggested mobil1 synthetic grease. I teflon taped the adjustment screw since I heard there is a potential for leaks there. After all this, I'm having issues with it.

I tried multiple adjustments of the preload screw and they all act the same...very bad flutter and what sounds to be a little turbo surge. The flutter is at all boost / load levels while the surge seems to occur only with higher boost.

Any suggestions?
Yep. I was having the same problem last spring/summer. It got so bad that I took the APS BOV off, and put the OEM DV back on. Then I upgraded to a BBK Full last fall, and the OEM DV couldn't hold 27 psi, so I went back to the drawing board with the APS BOV. After reviewing the possible areas where it could leak, I came up with the hypothesis that the problem was a leak around the rubber o-ring used to seal up the other end of the BOV where it opens up for disassembly, since I had teflon taped the ish out of the adjustment screw. It just so happened that I had some access to hondabond at the time, so after re-greasing the BOV(again), when I put it back together I put a fine bead of hondabond completely around the outside edge of the rubber o-ring, and then put it back together, tightening down the screws nice and snug. Results....completely fixed my flutter/partial throttle surge issue. I'm not saying that's for sure your issue as well, but mine has worked flawlessly for 4+ months now since doing that.

Also, the Mobil 1 Grease worked fine for me, but I've found that Green Grease worked better for me. Something to consider.......Mobil 1 operating range = -40°F to 302°F, Green Grease operating range = -20°F to 500°F.
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 08:04 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by GG06MR
Yep. I was having the same problem last spring/summer. It got so bad that I took the APS BOV off, and put the OEM DV back on. Then I upgraded to a BBK Full last fall, and the OEM DV couldn't hold 27 psi, so I went back to the drawing board with the APS BOV. After reviewing the possible areas where it could leak, I came up with the hypothesis that the problem was a leak around the rubber o-ring used to seal up the other end of the BOV where it opens up for disassembly, since I had teflon taped the ish out of the adjustment screw. It just so happened that I had some access to hondabond at the time, so after re-greasing the BOV(again), when I put it back together I put a fine bead of hondabond completely around the outside edge of the rubber o-ring, and then put it back together, tightening down the screws nice and snug. Results....completely fixed my flutter/partial throttle surge issue. I'm not saying that's for sure your issue as well, but mine has worked flawlessly for 4+ months now since doing that.

Also, the Mobil 1 Grease worked fine for me, but I've found that Green Grease worked better for me. Something to consider.......Mobil 1 operating range = -40°F to 302°F, Green Grease operating range = -20°F to 500°F.

Alright thanks, I will have to give that a shot. After putting the hondabond on, can you still take it apart for cleanup down the road? Also, how much grease do you put on and where did you apply it?
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