^That is a more accurate idea of cost for 550whp. That is a massive number that is not easy to obtain. Not to mention anything over 450whp is generally ill advised on a stock block. As I am finding out, labor for that clutch alone would be a third of your budget. 500-550 whp is simply out of reach for that cost and even if it werent, you will have many issues with the aggression of the tune and lack of strength in the drive line.

 

Yes, IF you could make the power you wanted (500-550) with the money, which is a stretch and you would really have to either cut some corners and get some knock off stuff, or do the wrench time yourself. The keyword in your sentence is RELIABLE. Once you break the 500hp/450-460ish tq number you are going to lose the reliability of the motor. Will it hold? Yes. For how long? Could go on you next year or next week, but it is bound to happen. That is just referring to the powertrain (rods, pistons, crank, etc..) not to mention the problems you could see from the transfer case and transmission with either aggressive driving or launches with that kind of power. As it has been said here and everywhere on these forums, you have to pay to play. So what if you do make that power, then your motor ****s the bed. Do you have enough money to repair the shortblock if it goes? Transfer case? Transmission? What you have to ask yourself is, is it worth it, and can I afford it in the long run if something blows...

 

Ok but i know there's a way under 2500. I have headers and a fmic already witch licp and uicp. I also have o2 housing i don't have a tial so any body have one for the low bov don't have time to weld. I have an extra walboro as well. I wouldn't mind an even 500. And i have basically did most of the work i just need the tune honestly. But 450 is cool. I know 500 is a'lot. I though the tranny could handle that.

 

Yes, there is, put every part you have on spend most of that cash on a big turbo. Install your meth or find an E85 station, and get an aggressive tune. Did you say if you upgraded your clutch? As soon as you throw the turbo on there with the extra hp/tq you can kiss that goodbye if you haven't upgraded, because no way it will hold 500ish with a good bit of wear on it... You sure you want to do it? And all of the above statements still apply for 500 hp, unless you have some much lower torque numbers...

 

look at list I posted if your keeping stock clutch then your looking at 350-410 whp at the most and most of the parts I listed do not apply sounds like your not willing to spend the cash so stay in average evo territory with 325-400 and be happy

 

ok bro thanks but i am getting a clutch which one would you recomend

 

Also depends on price limit you have set up. For the daily drivability and power the consensus is usually the Exedy, either HD single or twin. Its reliable, no drivability issues, and can take a beating. Cost efficient solution are the ACT clutches but they can be known to cause lockout issues. This is not always true, but some setups see lockout when revving high in the RPM band. SPEC makes a good clutch that can be the middle ground between cost and performance. If your made of money then one of the tilton carbon series is the route most take... There are a million threads on clutch discussions and which one to pick...

EDIT: for your power levels (500ish hp) you would be into the realm of twin discs for whatever setup you take. So the Exedy Twin HD, Spec Twin, etc...

 

Well i apreciate everything you guys and i can do more once i sell my 3000gt.

 

Your welcome, good luck. Mod wisely though, the last thing you want to do is sink money into the car and something blow, then in time you'll be back to square one and kickin yourself for it.

 

Yes you should focus on getting the basic bolt on first then move on

3" TBE
Ported O2 housing
Camshafts
Spring and retainer upgrade
Ported intake manifold
Ported exhaust manifold or change to tubular exhaust manifold
Ported/65mm T/B
Intercooler piping with Air intake/filter
Upgraded Bov (aps twin vent Trial or crushed evo 9 bov)
3.5 Intercooler

once thats done then think about turbo upgrades and double pumper system and injectors fuel rails clutch upgrades and the like

 

500 WHP+ is a bit unrealistic IMO with your budget if you want your car to be reliable and not a time bomb. It may be doable buying used parts, etc.... but it will end at some risks that you will have to accept. Not worth it on my experience!

I think that with that budget, you can get into the 400s easily with meth and still on the safe side if you choose the right parts and supporting elements within budget. It will be a very fun car to drive that will last.

 

500hp with $2500....better listen to protostar comments. I have that much in my clutch. You cut corners by buying "cheap" parts your car will pay you back, I promise. Be patient and do it right first if you want reliability, clutch, Tcase upgrades/Tranny, then get into your motor. After you have those things done be prepared to put even more money to achieve over 500hp. My car has proven 350 AWHP and here my car has been sitting for weeks because my upgraded Tcase is whinning/going out. Inherent weakness of the car...oh well, guess I'll get the better upgrade. Point is even 350hp is pushing/past limits of reliability without serious upgrades/money.

 

lol yea its going to take a variation of the list i posted to even sniff 500whp and a built motor to get more safely.

 

I'm in the same boat as this guy. Car is a DD untill summer. Then I'll switch between my camaro and evo when it gets warm again. Untill then I'm gunna save up to 5K. The car will mostly be street oriented but I want it to do justice at the track. My goals r 500-550 awhp and to run in the tens at the track. Still with realiability to goto work and back though!!

 

3586 and most of the normal bolt ons. Depending on what you already have you may have the groundwork and just need the turbo to make it happen.