I am the IDIOT.... mentioned earlier in this thread. My factory oil cooler probly has about 10 pounds of bearing in it from a previous oil pump failure, I was just discussing with pizzaman what can happen if you delete and certain conditions you should not expose the car too if you have deleted it. My car really only sees drag passes. and in my opinion 10-11 seconds of being |"on it" isn't enough time to get the oil very hot. I have heard alot of awdmotorsports cars deleting for the weight ha, now how about if it was delete or replace it, is it worth atleast 500 too you??

 

i was just trying to get some insight on this matter do to me doing a engine build. thanks for all the feedback, good and bad! my new build is gonna be pretty nice. p67 turbo bb,ets kit,oliver rods,br spec je pistons,map port im and coated,milspec 65mmtb,ams fmic,port head with complete ferrea valvetrain,tomie procam 280s,intank walboro 255,inline external 255wal,aem fuel rail,fluidampr harmonic balancer,fuel lab fpr,pte1200cc,tomie cam gears,br smc kit,shep tc,br uicp short route,balance shaft elim,cosworth oil scraper,and misc dress up stuff. so i should make some good power.

 

i forgot b&m oil cooler!!!!

 

You shouldnt own an evo if you have to ask this question..... Sorry but DAM!

 

why? isnt the point of a public forum to learn about the car platform we all enjoy? ive asked that question before, should i sell my car now?

 

I figured this was the case. I just did the same thing, but the STM kit with super sweet AN fittings and stuff is only 239. Granted you need to figure out brackets, but turbo cars' oil gets hot hot no matter how you drive. Drag cars get away with it because the're run for a matter of seconds and minutes, not hours. Though a spun bearing in 500 miles sounds like something didn't get cleaned out well enough, not hot oil.

 

wow, how much is the oil cooler weight? What is the point of getting rid of the factory oil cooler man.??

 

if you are gonna drag race for a couple of seconds, might as well take off the radiator, water pump, power steering, that saved a lot of weight..

 

^^^

To me it sounds like his engine went, and spun a bearing, and he rebuilt it and is wondering how to rig the oil cooler, loop it or plug it. If an engine blows, debris is spread in the oil pan and can find its way into the oil cooler, plugging things up and leaving metal in the system. If you can't replace it, you have to get rid of it or you can contaminate the new motor. He was wondering if he can just get rid of it instead of spending the money to replace it....

At least that is how I read it. Not sure though, a little confused.

Legitimate question. If it is a straight drag car, I would say, okay, just keep an CLOSE eye on the temps. If its a DD or AutoX best find a new one, they aren't too expensive and can save you from serious headaches later (and money down the road).

Cheers

 

hey buchneri, iam new to evom, can u tell me how to list my mods below my post just like yours? thanks.

 

Methanol drag cars commonly run no cooling systems whatsoever. Dry block. I know the oil cooler can't weight much, but people will also spend almost three times as much for a Ti exhaust to save like 20 pounds. Weight is the enemy for some people.

 

Go to your "User CP" and edit your signature and make it how you want it

 

appreciated bobster.

 

I just have my ports plugged off and it works fine. Been that way for the last 25k.(alum rod motor) You can also just use an Outlander oil filter housing that bolts on and does not have cooler ports.

The extra lines and fittings of a cooler make me nervous. Have seen to many motors fail from either dirty cooler, lines. After market fittings that were not put together right. No cooler just makes the car simpler.

I feel for a Drag street car there is not much need for an oil cooler. The factory oil cooler is now over $600.

If you motor spun a bearing it was due to something else besides the plugs.

 

+1 lucas