Swapping out exhaust manifold, looking for some help
Swapping out exhaust manifold, looking for some help
Hey everyone,
Just as the title suggests, I'm swapping out my exhaust manifold for a ported/coated one. I'm actually replacing the exhaust from the cylinder head back (with the exception of the turbo), but my question is specifically about the exhaust manifold.
Do I need to replace either the cylinder head/manifold studs, or the manifold to turbo bolts? I kind of assume that I do, as these bolts can lose strength over time with all the heat stressing, but I'm not sure. Thanks for the help.
edit: not sure if this belongs in the how-to section, it just felt like kind of a newbie question, heh. sorry if its in the wrong place.
Just as the title suggests, I'm swapping out my exhaust manifold for a ported/coated one. I'm actually replacing the exhaust from the cylinder head back (with the exception of the turbo), but my question is specifically about the exhaust manifold.
Do I need to replace either the cylinder head/manifold studs, or the manifold to turbo bolts? I kind of assume that I do, as these bolts can lose strength over time with all the heat stressing, but I'm not sure. Thanks for the help.
edit: not sure if this belongs in the how-to section, it just felt like kind of a newbie question, heh. sorry if its in the wrong place.
As for the bolts and studs that attach the turbo's exhaust housing to the exhaust manifold's outlet flange...After spraying these with penetrating oil, I would say that it is best to back out the studs and replace them with bolts and nuts. This makes any subsequent removal of the turbine housing much easier. Just a worthless opinion from a guy that has pulled his turbine housing off at least six times to port it. So, have the turbine housing and the exhaust manifold ported while you've got everything apart. Also it is a good time to install an aftermarket O2 housing or O2 dump.
Last edited by sparky; Mar 22, 2010 at 09:44 PM.
I wouldn't even suggest this path. If I am not mistaken, most people on here will tell you to follow the timeworn credo of, if it ain't broke...don't fix it! Spray the original, factory installed, manifold/head studs and nuts with penetrating oil the night before and again the following day before wrenching.
As for the bolts and studs that attach the turbo's exhaust housing to the exhaust manifold's outlet flange...After spraying these with penetrating oil, I would say that it is best to back out the studs and replace them with bolts and nuts. This makes any subsequent removal of the turbine housing much easier. Just a worthless opinion from a guy that has pulled his turbine housing off at least six times to port it. So, have the turbine housing and the exhaust manifold ported while you've got everything apart. Also it is a good time to install an aftermarket O2 housing or O2 dump.
As for the bolts and studs that attach the turbo's exhaust housing to the exhaust manifold's outlet flange...After spraying these with penetrating oil, I would say that it is best to back out the studs and replace them with bolts and nuts. This makes any subsequent removal of the turbine housing much easier. Just a worthless opinion from a guy that has pulled his turbine housing off at least six times to port it. So, have the turbine housing and the exhaust manifold ported while you've got everything apart. Also it is a good time to install an aftermarket O2 housing or O2 dump.
Nice! This is my nex't weekend's project. Ported/coated manifold instll, with new ss O2 housing, new Tomei Arms, and then off to tuning - FINALLY!! Def questions I had too.
Good timing.
Good timing.
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Hey man, good luck with your project. I wanted to chime in and give you some tips since I finally got it all sorted out.
1) Take the radiator out. It is totally possible to do it without taking the radiator out, but you'll like having the room and it takes very little time.
2) Take your time. Double and triple check the torque specs for your manifold. I didn't, and I snapped an exhaust manifold stud. Then I tried to use an extractor out and snapped the extractor off in there. It was a terrible nightmare. It took me 3 days of lots of crying on the inside and multiple dremel tips and drill bits trying to find the right combo to get it all out without completely destroying the cylinder head, original tap, etc. **PRO TIP** A tungsten carbide dremel head will cut through steel pretty damned quick. You can try using a tungsten carbide burr, but you'd need a jig to mount the drill to your cylinder head. long story short: take your time.
3) PB Blaster is your friend. Hit your setup with it two days before, then the day before, then the day of. It really helps.
4) If you're able, remove the entire o2 housing WITH your o2 sensor in there. It's far easier to hit it with a wrench/cheater on a clamp. I didn't have one so I couldn't.
good luck.
I'm still a noob so my opinion may not count for much but I say if you've got everything already apart I would go ahead and replace all of the studs with some that are stainless. I know from personal experience that the factory studs will eventually rust and wear out. I had two that broke off and had to be drilled out and retapped and if you ever have to do that it's going to either cost you a good chunk of change or a lot of time and frustration.






