Newbie - Actually about 5 hours ago
Aside from the fact that the "motoman" engine break-in is related to an engine dyno (where the engine is out of a car and the strain of a hard break-in is not transmitted to an entire drivetrain), there's also the fact that you car has a turbo on it and the turbo needs a gentle break-in as well for at least a couple hundred miles. Do not take it over 4500rpm if you can help it to break it in properly.
Actually I don't really care what you do with your car but that's my advice and why i will go easy on my new car when I break it in.
Actually I don't really care what you do with your car but that's my advice and why i will go easy on my new car when I break it in.
Ok I read the whole motoman break in procedures and I haven't seen anything about taking the engine out to dyno it. He specifically states that there are 3 ways to do it, and one of them is breaking it in on the street without the need for the dyno. Not trying to pick a fight here, just trying to clear things up.
If you put it on an engine dyno and rev it high, this would be bad as it puts absoutely no load on the engine. You need to have it broken in while bearing loads. He even talks about the dangers of revving the engine w/ no loads. Not that I agree with everything Motoman says (I'm still sketpical about those high velocity ports or whatever...Interesting stuff though).
But you do have a good point about the turbo. I suppose you'd need a boost gauge to make sure you don't get too high in the boost and that it doesn't climb up so fast while revving the engine pretty high.
Either way congrats on your nice shiny Evo. Just treat her well and drive carefully.
If you put it on an engine dyno and rev it high, this would be bad as it puts absoutely no load on the engine. You need to have it broken in while bearing loads. He even talks about the dangers of revving the engine w/ no loads. Not that I agree with everything Motoman says (I'm still sketpical about those high velocity ports or whatever...Interesting stuff though).
But you do have a good point about the turbo. I suppose you'd need a boost gauge to make sure you don't get too high in the boost and that it doesn't climb up so fast while revving the engine pretty high.
Either way congrats on your nice shiny Evo. Just treat her well and drive carefully.
I'm looking into getting an Apex-I boost gauge, buy maybe I should just slap an autometer one in for now so I can get a reading. I will definitely take at easy with her and be gentle....I just spent a lot of money and I want to enjoy it for a while
Congrats! Another Sacramento Evo owner. PM me if you want to meet up sometime and hit the track. Drag/Autox/Opentrack, I do it all. I am actually signed up for a Thunderhill track day with the Z club on December 20th. PM me if you want to meet up out there, I can take you out for a session.
Definitely! My dad runs his 1969 Merlyn Formula Ford out there and all over CA. I will definitely be there if the schedule permits. Do I need a full race suit, helmet and boots or just helmet?
All you need is an SA rated helmet. Sometimes they'll let you go on having just an M helmet. Maybe I have talked to you before because I remember seeing a website with your dad's car or something. Sounds familiar. Are you on any of the local DSM mailing lists? I have a Silver Evo also with some mods. Also a mid 12sec FWD eclipse.
TO ALL FOLKS WITH NEW EVOs:
The BEST thing I can reccommend for you is to install the Stainless Steel clutch line right away. It has proven to save your clutch and significantly improve ****fs when you take her out for an evening romp. You won't be sorry...trust me.
The BEST thing I can reccommend for you is to install the Stainless Steel clutch line right away. It has proven to save your clutch and significantly improve ****fs when you take her out for an evening romp. You won't be sorry...trust me.
what's wrong with the stock clutch line...?
it's 2 feet long and it's just a rubber hose... any more questions...?
the stainless line should NOT affect your warranty, but check with your dealer to make sure...
it's 2 feet long and it's just a rubber hose... any more questions...?

the stainless line should NOT affect your warranty, but check with your dealer to make sure...
Well, I knew it was just a rubber hose, I was just wondering if there was any specific defect to look out for. In my VR-4, for example... the clutch line was also rubber. It looked fine just sitting there, but when you shifted, it would expand (or bubble) and so there would in effect be less pressure. In the long run, this caused my transmission to never be fully disengaged and it was eventually eaten.
I will be looking into the stainless clutch line asap, though!
I will be looking into the stainless clutch line asap, though!
Ya. I am going to order the stainless clutch line also. waiting for payday. As for the engine dyno. An engine dyno is used to break in an engine. It does put load on the motor. I doesn't just sit there on an engine stand and you just rev it up. It depends on the engine dyno set up/company that makes it. some are connected to a shaft where load is put on the engine. Also I did drained the factory oil in the beginning and put 10-40w. after about 1200 miles went back to synthetic. Happy driving and see you on the road!



