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Couple quick questions -

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Old May 11, 2011 | 12:51 PM
  #1  
2004EvoVIII's Avatar
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From: MinneSNOWta
Question Couple quick questions -

Ok - so I have been searching online for about a combined total of 4-5 hours trying to find out the answers to a couple of my questions. Chances are I totally missed or skipped right over the answers - if that is the case then I apologize but I could really use some insight into these two "issues".

First off - my car will idle at 1000 RPM exactly when the engine is warm/hot/etc... - if the A/C is on it will idle at 1200 RPM. I have seen a couple threads where people will say that the throttle cable is sticking - that doesn't seem to be the issue in my case, unfortunately, haha.

My second issue is that there is a very fast buzzing noise coming from the intake/injector area. At first I thought of a valve noise - but this isn't a valve tick and I have had two techs listen/look under the hood as well. I was thinking of doing a valve adjust anyways - cause it probably has never been done..

Now I have heard that the Mitsubishi engines have not-so-great intake gaskets and gaskets in general - so my "racing" or high idle could be cause by a leak of some sort - but to get the car diagnosed I am looking at $120 - and at this point I am trying to save as much money as possible since I don't really have a lot anyways


I called the local Mitsubishi dealership (I work at a Honda dealership) and asked the service advisor the same questions I am asking now. He mentioned something I have not seen or heard of yet - and this was that there is a "Service Bulletin" from Mitsubishi where they will "upgrade the system on the ECU" and that elimnates the "racing idle" were his exact words. He said he thought it was for the Evolution but couldn't remember.

Any thoughts? fixes? Anyone ever even heard of this so called "bulletin"? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
And again - sorry if I am repeating posts/asking repeat questions but I have looked and so far couldn't find much of anything that was relevant to what I need. Hopefully someone on here might know of a thread or website that can help!
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Old May 12, 2011 | 07:56 AM
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From: Orange/Rockland, NY
Check for boost leaks.

Create a tester from parts at Home Depot Racing,LOL.

This will find most if any air leaks that could cause a higher idle.

And BTW, the valves are not adjustable. The rockers run off the hydraulic lifters.
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Old May 12, 2011 | 06:11 PM
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From: MinneSNOWta
Originally Posted by 4RETECH
Check for boost leaks.

Create a tester from parts at Home Depot Racing,LOL.

This will find most if any air leaks that could cause a higher idle.

And BTW, the valves are not adjustable. The rockers run off the hydraulic lifters.
I had one of those when I had the WRX - looks I'll be hitting them up again! I checked the throttle cable and TB is being cleaned tonight after I get off work. So far every fix that everyone else has used doesn't seem to apply to mine, lol. One issue I do know is that I believe the people who did the last timing belt job did not align the balance shaft properly and it is causing quite the buzzing noise at idle as well - right around the intake area. So that will be fixed once I do another timing belt in about 30k - for now I'm leaving it and just listening to the turbo and BOV instead of that buzzing!
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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 04:30 PM
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From: MinneSNOWta
Thread revival...

The ticking noise is still there - I checked for leaks and loose connections and found that one of my boost lines was split down the underside - I replaced that and still I have the noise. It does not go away after idle, it will stay throughout. I have read SO many threads and most seem to end in piston slap, rod bearing, etc...but I am crossing my fingers and hoping for something else.

I also have my service engine light will flash under boost application but NOT all the time - it is incredibly intermittent and incredibly frustrating... it is doing it less frequently now that I have found that boost line leak, but it will still do it.

I am going to start my next two things by checking for exhaust leaks, see if the DP or any exhaust piping is hitting something metal and then also changing the sparkplugs.

I can/will post up a video as soon as I can - the quality maybe be crappy but we'll see how the iPhone performs!

Also - this car is my DD, therefore I barely have any time to take the head off, VC off or anything like that - I won't be able to do that for at least 4-5 weeks since I work two jobs now...
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