Have you seen the Rotrex blowers before? I have yet to try one but they look very interesting. Kinda like a Procharger had a baby with a turbo.

 

 

Nice! That is good power out of a boosted Miata. Probably has a very smooth powerband. A couple years ago I did a turbo and tune on my buddies Miata and it was around the same power. Thing was a beast on boost but took forever to get there.

 

My other friend had one with a Flyin Miata turbo kit. Right around 260whp and super responsive. It was a blast! I wonder why the difference.

 

Im sure there are a lot of differences. The FM kit is actually pretty good. My Bug is part Miata so I have dealt with them many times before and like their products. The kit I installed was pieced together by the owner of the car and nothing matched. The turbo itself was definitely not the best size or quality. Heat exchanger was small and had a pretty bad boost drop across it. I also tuned it very conservatively because I thought the thing was going to blow up (still alive 6 years later!). Not sure what Miatas you are talking about but this was on the NA generation.

 

Also NA. He was a fan of pop-up headlights.

 

Nice! 260 whp would be a blast in one. I am more of a NB fan though. No pop-ups for me.

Quick question for anyone who knows. I was looking over my Evos engine compartment checking fluids and I noticed that the ACD bottle looked to have ATF in it? Is that true?

Can someone tell me if I am on the right track here? All the fluid listed below are just stuff I have laying around. It can be changed up if there are better options.

Trans - Pennzoil syncromesh
T-case/ front diff - Castrol synthetic with LSD additve 75-90 (assuming they share fluid) .6qt?
Rear diff - Same as front / .6qt?
Coolant - Green stuff
ACD - ATF? If so, which one? How much?
Brake and clutch fluid - Motul 600
PS fluid - Normal clear stuff?

Besides engine oil, am I missing anything to change?

 

Yes, it's ATF.

As for the drivetrain fluids, I've always used OEM stuff, but haven't had any problems. If you still have the 6spd, you DEFINITELY want to stock with OEM trans fluid.
I use waterless coolant, but was never picky before that. As long as it's compatible with Mitsu, then no worries. The OEM radiator cools better than any other radiator I've seen, so no special fluid is really needed. Maybe some Water Wetter for the heck of it?
I use Castrol brake fluid to handle track temps. As for PS fluid, I had a ton of OEM stuff, so just used that. I don't think our cars are sensitive to certain brands.

 

Thanks Kaj. Freakin Diaqueen is expensive!

As for coolant, it's got green stuff in it now. Is that how they came from the factory? I am a fan of water wetter, run it in most of the 1000+ hp cars and it does work but I don't see a need with what I will be doing. Waterless stuff is awesome but crazy expensive too.

 

I'm 99% sure ours is green, yup. To be honest, The only reason I use waterless is so my OEM radiator, and the rest of the cooling system lasts. But yeah...$50/gal ain't cheap. I think I put almost 2gal from dry.

 

when i first saw the vw i thought that it has a evo engine lol

 

Well guys, sold my last Jeep today. Looks like it's time to start the upgrades on the Evo!

 

Tuning software has been ordered (Tactrix/ECUflash)! Going to get a lower intercooler pipe next (ETS). Also looking into an o2 housing and down pipe if anyone wants to recommend one that actually fits good.

I think I am also going to get a Turbosmart wastegate. I am a dealer for them so might as well. What are most people doing for stock turbo setups? Use the ECU to control boost or should I just get something like a 24# wastegate and let it run off the spring pressure? Keep in mind, this is going to be run on horrible 91 octane.

 

Sounds like you are on the right track. All those parts are a necessity! Any downpipe will work as long as it's ACD/non-ACD, depending on your car. I've seen anything from Megan to Buschur all work. As for O2 housings, it's kinda the same. Megan are cheap and seem to work well. I think that's what I had, when I went with a 3". Right now, I have a 2 3/4" Titek, or something like that. Only because I don't like fighting with the mounting nut, inside the "elbow", on a 3". But I do suggest going with that size.
I'm on stock turbo, 18psi FP WGA, ECU boost with an OMNI 4BAR MAP sensor and Grimmspeed boost solenoid. I'm 99.9% sure you will not be able to run 24psi on pump gas without killing things.

 

Kaj - Thanks again for the input!

Do I need to go with a 4 bar MAP like you if I only plan on doing low 20s for boost? I would assume I dont.
For the wastegate, should I do a 12 lb spring so that it can only do 24 psi max as a safety precaution? E85 doesnt really exist out here so it will be on 91 octane forever.
Is the boost solenoid just for less boost spikes? As in, it can react faster then the factory one?

If any of what I have brought up is something you sell off your site, let me know and I will get everything from you for helping me out!