And you have stock head studs or ARP???

 

It's like wearing a rubber, you don't have to and may not think you need to, but sooner or later you will find out you should have.

 

I'm running 23-24psi and once I get my 272's put in probably when I go and get it tuned then will I put in ARP studs... really should be fine till you get to 350 range

 

i am looking to order them soon.
i cant find any for under 99 shipped (ebay). i remember when they were cheaper?

 

Will the headstud require to be retorque after a certain amount of usuage or is it a one time deal.

Price is around $100. Not sure where you can find it cheaper then that.

 

Typically I will install the studs, run the car for about 30 minutes, driving around. Then come bakc and make sure they are still torqued to spec. But alot of people torque it and forget it.

Remember the arp studs dont stretch like the stock bolts, so no need to retorque after prolonged use.

 

I ran my car through 3 heat cycles (idling for 20 minutes or so) and retorqued them. About half of them took a 1/4 turn.

Mine are torqued down to 85 ft/lbs.

 

what do the after market headstuds exactly do ?
am getting cams soon so u guys think i should go for it ?
just an of topic question ?
how much Psi would the stock block hold safly ?

 

Thats very true, actaully what happens most of the time is that people mess up the installation with ARP head studs and you get better mess. Stock studs are very good.

 

OK. I know I'm bringing this back from the dead but I couldn't find any threads on this that were any more recent so I'm just curious if opinnions have changed over the past six years.

I'm planning on installing a 9 turbo on my 8 along with a MAP Short Runner manifold and I'm wondering if I should also have some ARP headstuds installed. FWIW, my current mods are in my sig and on the VD I usually hit between 320-330 whp and 310-320 wtq while boosting around 26-27psi. The car has about 85K on it and as far as I can tell there doesn't seem to be any issues with leaks from the head gasket.

I'm guessing (and hoping) that with the 9 turbo and new manifold I'll be in the 350-375 whp range. Do you guys think I need to have the headstuds installed??

 

Why risk a blown headgasket and have to spend the money and time to pull the head to put in a new headgasket? For the extra $110 or so i would, its worth not having to pull the head.

 

1st quarter of 2008 is when you should buy headstuds.

 

Yeah but don't you have to pull the head to put the new studs in anyway? Or is the 1x1 method the accepted way of installing headstuds now?? Like I said, all the info I found was from 2005 so I'm just trying to get some updated info.

 

That would have taken some psychic powers on my part since I didn't get my Evo until 3rd quarter of 2009.

 

I've just tuned my car on 31psi on my hta green. I'm running stock headstuds, 31psi. No problems. I have a box of them sitting in my garage, but decided to not install them now