Just so everyone knows, the only difference between the BR8es and the BPR8ES (I run the BPR7ES by the way most of the time, running denso's at the moment) is the projected electrode, it may be worth a few degrees in temp which may add a little additional detonation resistence, but the difference in temp is so small that ultimately didn't make much of a performance difference... The projected electrode is more desirable on turbocharged cars though.. But with a good ignition system and healthy spark, either work just as well... The odds are the BR8ES would be in-stock at your local auto-parts store, where the BPR series might not

 

Ill be looking forward to your review Any of your posts are actually informative compared to many that I read. I am really hoping that by upgrading the ignition it may help me on the foul plug problem I currently have. Anyways Ill await the review.

 

I still cant figure out how I can foul plugs within three days of running not THAT high boost and racegas. It seems unreal to me that in 3 damned days I can junk them. Its funny because when you look at the plugs they look perfect. I dont understand ignition very well yet and am still looking for more informative sources. So far all I seem to find is reading plugs and some stupid faws on how to select the right ones. If you know of any good resources I would love to read up.

 

What do you mean by foul plug if they look perfect? They misfires badly? I had good luck with .025 gapped BR8ES until I upgraded to 272's camshafts, which require a lot more fuel. I start to see some misfiring from the log and it even throw a P0300 code for a couple times (nope, not the regular P0300 problem but it was a real misfire because it popped up only when I WOT and I could actually feel the misfire). I went back to stock plugs at 0.025 gap and so far so good.

Don't you usually foul plugs only if you are running overly rich?

 

Yes, plugs foul from being overly rich or unable to reach the temp required for them to "Self clean" or burn off deposits, or if they misfire badly (again a rich condition)

The problem with Trinababe's car is likely that its badly misfiring, the stock coils and cold plugs are likely unable to sustain a good quality spark at the mixture and boost levels your running.

Keep in mind that if you get incomplete combustion due to quench or misfire, the car will actually read richer than it should be, so it can make tuning even more difficult. The great thing about using a CDI ignition is that it won't "Load up" or foul/misfire at idle or cruising around, it allows you to run a cooler plug, and larger gap, the larger gap exposes more spark to the combustion chamber, and the cooler plug absorbs more heat away from the combustion chamber...

Heck, I was getting more exhaust volume after adding the new ignition box that my boost began spooling even quicker, and I had to reduce the boost solenoid's duty cycle a bit to compensate otherwise I was hitting my self-imposed boost cut setting on the UTEC..

I'm beginning to suspect that some of the issues people are having with boost tapering and power falling off on stock turbo cars as being some form of misfire or combustion quench.

 

I agree with you totally! The situation is worse for those of us who gets only 91 from pump We have to run the richer with less ignition timing, and it causes misfiring more a common problem. I am waiting for for review on the HKS DLI-2

 

You don't need a review of the hks dli-2. It works flawlessly.

 

Hahah, Definitely true.

 

LOL True, but people don't understand WHAT makes it a worthwhile mod since it doesn't offer any true HP gains (if the car is already running good, which most aren't) I will probably have 3 pages to post tonight, it will be posted both on my forum (since it has a specific module intended for writing this stuff) and on here.

I chose it over other units because of its size, and I'm so happy with it. I have another surprise in store that involves the best of both worlds for ignition upgrades.. STAY TUNED..