Tuning for 100% Methanol Injection
Tuning for 100% Methanol Injection
Should I shoot for more boost or higher timing and AFR? What would be some good target AFR from 4k to the redline? I am still using the stock Turbo and no 10.5 hotside.
I wouldn't alter the AFR much, but you can tune more timing and higher boost... I would tune for boost first, then alter timing a bit Alky tuning is best done on the dyno though...
You should always leave yourself a bit of safety on the rich side for meth injection. I would target 11.0:1. That is what I did running 100% meth. Still made great power. If you ever has the meth fail, you better be running a tad rich if you have any chance of saving it.
I have a problem when comming up to the redline where the car seems to run out of fuel. It bucks big time. If i run at like 24psi I get the bucking once I get to around 6k. At 21 PSI it'll sometime starting buck at 7k. Do I need to upgrade injectors? My injector duty cycle is not 100% but it feels like it has no fuel. I was running really rich since I was still testing the Methanol.
here are some logs:
Any help would really be wonderful.
here are some logs:
Code:
4001 24.9 965 80 10 0 11.4 45.7 ECU. 6 ECU. 1190 4120 25.1 1262 100 20 0 9.8 64.9 5.9 6 ECU. 1207 4301 25.1 1483 100 40 0 9.8 77.8 6.8 7 ECU. 1623 4450 25.3 1436 100 60 0 10 72.4 7.5 7 ECU. 1572 4623 25.3 1510 100 70 0 10.3 74.7 8.2 7 ECU. 1633 4775 25.3 1552 100 80 0 10.1 73.8 8.6 5 ECU. 1633 4909 25.1 1572 100 80 0 10.3 75 9 5 ECU. 1592 5042 25.1 1612 100 80 0 10.3 77.4 9.4 4 ECU. 1666 5175 25.1 1633 100 80 0 10.2 78.1 10.1 1 ECU. 1724 5350 25.1 1655 100 90 0 10.3 77.6 10.6 0 ECU. 1736 5509 25.1 1736 100 90 0 10.5 80.7 11.1 0 ECU. 1736 5630 25.3 1779 100 90 0 10.4 80.7 11.4 -1.2 ECU. 1798 5797 25.1 1838 100 100 0 10.3 79 11.9 -2 ECU. 1700 5941 25.1 1858 100 100 0 10.6 80.6 12.2 -2 ECU. 1811 6082 25.1 1872 100 100 0 10.7 80.6 13.2 -2.4 ECU. 1865 6207 25.1 1915 100 100 0 10.7 80.8 14.4 -3.6 ECU. 1838 6337 25.1 1930 100 100 0 10.7 80.9 15.8 -4 ECU. 1851 6472 24.9 1953 100 100 0 10.7 81.4 17.2 -4 ECU. 1923 6613 24.9 1984 100 100 0 10.7 82.5 18.3 -4 ECU. 1798 6720 24.7 1984 100 100 0 10.7 83.3 19.2 -4 ECU. 1923 6844 24.9 1984 100 100 0 10.7 83.8 20.4 -4 ECU. 1838 6958 24.9 2000 100 100 0 10.7 84.4 21.9 -4 ECU. 1851 7107 24.9 2000 100 100 0 10.6 84.6 22.2 -4 ECU. 1908 7215 24.9 2024 100 100 0 10.7 85 22.1 -4 ECU. 1773
Code:
2267 25.3 111 13 0 0 12.8 5 ECU. 0 ECU. 111 2856 25.1 113 13 0 0 14.5 5.3 ECU. 0 ECU. 110 3531 25.1 113 13 0 0 14.4 5 ECU. 0 ECU. 110 4268 25.1 113 13 0 0 13.1 6.4 ECU. 0 ECU. 112 4486 25.1 117 13 0 0 13.9 6.7 ECU. 0 ECU. 119 4450 25.1 115 13 0 0 14.7 5.9 ECU. 0 ECU. 120 4468 25.1 279 22 0 0 16 12.6 ECU. 0 ECU. 292 4426 25.1 324 25 0 0 16.9 13 ECU. 0 ECU. 320 4474 24.9 407 27 0 0 13 17.3 ECU. 0 ECU. 476 4610 25.1 651 44 10 0 12.8 30.7 ECU. 6 ECU. 781 4662 24.9 897 65 10 0 10.9 41.4 ECU. 6 ECU. 919 4775 24.7 1179 79 10 0 10.1 62.1 ECU. 6 ECU. 1420 4789 24.7 1587 100 30 0 9.9 82.8 7.5 7 ECU. 1712 4880 24.9 1754 100 60 0 9.7 87.7 8.5 7 ECU. 1724 4997 25.1 1672 100 70 0 9.8 83.2 9.2 6.3 ECU. 1785 5208 25.3 1742 100 90 0 10.3 81.2 10.1 0.6 ECU. 1893 5359 25.5 1792 100 100 0 10.4 81.5 10.7 0 ECU. 1798 5509 25.3 1818 100 100 0 10.5 81.2 11.1 -0.2 ECU. 1773 5649 25.3 1851 100 100 0 10.6 81.4 11.5 -1.4 ECU. 1724 5807 25.3 1893 100 100 0 10.5 81.7 12 -2 ECU. 1798 5952 25.3 1923 100 100 0 10.7 82.3 12.4 -2 ECU. 1908 6093 25.3 1968 100 100 0 10.6 83.4 13.4 -3 ECU. 1893 6242 25.3 1984 100 100 0 10.6 83.7 14.9 -3.8 ECU. 1824 6361 25.1 2008 100 100 0 10.7 84.3 16 -4 ECU. 1923 6485 25.1 2032 100 100 0 10.7 85.9 17.2 -4 ECU. 1908 6640 24.9 2049 100 100 0 10.7 84.4 16.7 -4 ECU. 1923 6915 24.9 2057 100 100 0 10.3 85.8 18.3 -4 ECU. 1851 6802 24.7 2074 100 100 0 177.3 86.4 19.7 -4 ECU. 1923 6915 24.9 2066 100 100 0 10.6 86.7 21.1 -4 ECU. 1838 7032 25.1 2066 100 100 0 10.6 85.8 22 -4 ECU. 1865 6802 25.1 1524 100 100 0 24.2 66.6 21.9 -4 ECU. 1470 7062 25.3 2040 100 100 0 10.3 84.6 21.4 -4 ECU. 1908
do you think you still have the fuel cut enabled? I'm far from being an expert, but it doesn't seem that youre hitting high inj duty cycle so you still have room there. if you are bucking at 6k@24psi, sounds like you might be hitting fuel cut especially if you when you lower the boost and its further up the rpms.
Trending Topics
it depends on which version you have. i think the most recent filmware is 1.7, but i could be wrong. check out turboxs.com and see what the newest is. i had a similar problem when i installed my cams which was before the new filmware and on a cool morning i would get on it in 3rd and it would hit fuel cut at about 5k. afterwards, got the new version and didnt have anymore problems since.
Ahh just read the manual saw the options under the Open Loop Fueling section. I thought UTEC totally removed the fuel cut. Still figuring this out hehe.... So what would be a good setting for the MAF Overboost fuel setting? Should I just max it out to 30?
Your problem is likely ignition related, not injector related.
Leaning AFR has netted the best power for me. Stock timing numbers. No knock even to 12.7a/f. Even hit 28* timing at 8000+ rpms.
Do not attempt this without monitoring afr, and timing on every run as I do.
Timing hold or retard will indicate a lean condition and/or knock presence. Reduce boost or richen a/f at that point.
Leaning AFR has netted the best power for me. Stock timing numbers. No knock even to 12.7a/f. Even hit 28* timing at 8000+ rpms.
Do not attempt this without monitoring afr, and timing on every run as I do.
Timing hold or retard will indicate a lean condition and/or knock presence. Reduce boost or richen a/f at that point.
The reason you don't run that lean is EGT's and very little headroom for detonation.. I've also run that lean on occasion, but you can't run that for more than a few seconds at a time (Quarter mile run) since I do high speed runs and road racing type stuff, I only tune like that for glory runs..
I can tell you know that 28 degrees of timing is probably innacurate.. Your either experiencing knock and removing that 8 degrees, or your stock ignition coils are "Very latent" I discovered (I was running 23 degrees) of timing and had to back it off 2 degrees after I upgraded to the HKS DLI2..
This is assuming your using pump.. Its a different story with 93/Meth or C16 since I can get 27 degrees with C16.. But I don't run C16 so its pointless for me to tune my car like that.
I can tell you know that 28 degrees of timing is probably innacurate.. Your either experiencing knock and removing that 8 degrees, or your stock ignition coils are "Very latent" I discovered (I was running 23 degrees) of timing and had to back it off 2 degrees after I upgraded to the HKS DLI2..
This is assuming your using pump.. Its a different story with 93/Meth or C16 since I can get 27 degrees with C16.. But I don't run C16 so its pointless for me to tune my car like that.
Originally Posted by joeymia
Ahh just read the manual saw the options under the Open Loop Fueling section. I thought UTEC totally removed the fuel cut. Still figuring this out hehe.... So what would be a good setting for the MAF Overboost fuel setting? Should I just max it out to 30?
I set mine for 2200hz (22) You should log your data and look at your peak maf reading, and set it 10% Higher..
If you have a MAP sensor, you should set that to your max boost you might ever see..
RPM limiter is your discretion, but don't set it over 7800 if you don't have head studs (7800 will probably touch 8000rpm)
Originally Posted by MalibuJack
The reason you don't run that lean is EGT's and very little headroom for detonation.. I've also run that lean on occasion, but you can't run that for more than a few seconds at a time (Quarter mile run) since I do high speed runs and road racing type stuff, I only tune like that for glory runs..
I can tell you know that 28 degrees of timing is probably innacurate.. Your either experiencing knock and removing that 8 degrees, or your stock ignition coils are "Very latent" I discovered (I was running 23 degrees) of timing and had to back it off 2 degrees after I upgraded to the HKS DLI2..
This is assuming your using pump.. Its a different story with 93/Meth or C16 since I can get 27 degrees with C16.. But I don't run C16 so its pointless for me to tune my car like that.
I can tell you know that 28 degrees of timing is probably innacurate.. Your either experiencing knock and removing that 8 degrees, or your stock ignition coils are "Very latent" I discovered (I was running 23 degrees) of timing and had to back it off 2 degrees after I upgraded to the HKS DLI2..
This is assuming your using pump.. Its a different story with 93/Meth or C16 since I can get 27 degrees with C16.. But I don't run C16 so its pointless for me to tune my car like that.
Here are timing numbers on a 1-5th gear run.
When using 1-4th gear to 8600rpms timing numbers are higher in 4th. I purposely short shifted this run below to allow for higher boost, but when 4th is wound out timing hits 27-28*.
4400-7
5100-11
6000-15
6792-20
5400 11
5800-14
6300-16
6700-20
7100-21
5400-8
5900-8
6020-11
6200-14
6500-17
6700-19
6900-20
7500-24
8017-27
5900-8
5590-10
5792-11
5942-12
6000-13
6200-14
6300-15
6400-17
6500-18
6600-18
6792-18
6894-20
7000-20
5560-9
5630-10
5742-11
5824-11
5980-12
6020-13
6120-13
6191-14
end




= meth injection
I am thinking i am sitting at 350/350+ on a dynojet.