Flash before ECU+?
Do I need to get my ECU flashed before adding the ECU+ to remove the stock settings such as the rev limiter?
Also, it seems like ECU+ can control cam timing. Does this feature serve the same function as cam gears?
I'm really new to all this, and I want to get into tuning my Evo to squeeze as much power out of it as possible. From what I've read, it seems like ECU+ is the way to go (as far as features and cost). Is it really easy to learn how to tune your car? Are there safety settings added so that I can't completely destroy my car while I'm learning to do this? Any other advice?
Also, it seems like ECU+ can control cam timing. Does this feature serve the same function as cam gears?
I'm really new to all this, and I want to get into tuning my Evo to squeeze as much power out of it as possible. From what I've read, it seems like ECU+ is the way to go (as far as features and cost). Is it really easy to learn how to tune your car? Are there safety settings added so that I can't completely destroy my car while I'm learning to do this? Any other advice?
Originally Posted by MisterMR
Do I need to get my ECU flashed before adding the ECU+ to remove the stock settings such as the rev limiter?
1. Getting better driveability with large injectors. (700 and up kind-of range)
2. Raising the 7x00 RPM rev limit.
Also, it seems like ECU+ can control cam timing. Does this feature serve the same function as cam gears?
I'll let someone else talk about cam gears, but it seems like most of the people who have them haven't actually adjusted them beyond 0 degrees, so I don't know how much use they get.
I'm really new to all this, and I want to get into tuning my Evo to squeeze as much power out of it as possible. From what I've read, it seems like ECU+ is the way to go (as far as features and cost). Is it really easy to learn how to tune your car? Are there safety settings added so that I can't completely destroy my car while I'm learning to do this? Any other advice?
Tom
Tom,
what about needing a flash to eliminate fuel cut? On your website it says that the ECU+ has a "fuel cut defender", how efffective it this? At the moment hitting fuel cut is my biggest problem.
what about needing a flash to eliminate fuel cut? On your website it says that the ECU+ has a "fuel cut defender", how efffective it this? At the moment hitting fuel cut is my biggest problem.
there is a feature that will help you stay out of fuel cut. It has a maximum maf frequency output clamp that you can set.
also, cam gears just basically move the powerband around. the more you retard the cams the more you sustain your torque over rpm. The more they are advanced, the more quickly the torque drops off, but its a double edged sword. If you retard the cam gears, you dont get a huge torque spike like a stock evo does, it's usually just a very very flat torque line.
also, cam gears just basically move the powerband around. the more you retard the cams the more you sustain your torque over rpm. The more they are advanced, the more quickly the torque drops off, but its a double edged sword. If you retard the cam gears, you dont get a huge torque spike like a stock evo does, it's usually just a very very flat torque line.
Originally Posted by AlwaysinBoost
what about needing a flash to eliminate fuel cut? On your website it says that the ECU+ has a "fuel cut defender", how efffective it this? At the moment hitting fuel cut is my biggest problem.
Tom
Originally Posted by tlcoll1
This feature works, but almost no one uses it. The reason is that fuel cut is calculated in the stock ECU based on the MAS frequency that it sees. With a device like the ECU+, you end up decreasing that frequency to compensate for overly rich mixtures or larger injectors. So, the fuel cut problem just goes away on its own and you don't need to worry about it.
Tom
Tom
Will I run into this problem with the ECU+?
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Originally Posted by AlwaysinBoost
I completly understand what your saying, however with the SAFCII I'm now using to tune, I'm getting fuel cut in the lower RPM (~3,000-4,000). I can't take away fuel because its already lean to begin with and if I try and add fuel I'll just wind up maxing out the MAF frequency that much sooner.
--Dan
Mach V
MachEVO.com
Originally Posted by tlcoll1
A mail-in flash is handy for two things:
1. Getting better driveability with large injectors. (700 and up kind-of range)
2. Raising the 7x00 RPM rev limit.
No. Cam gears adjust where the cams open and close with respect to the engine cycle. The ECU+ timing adjustment moves when the spark fires in the engine cycle. These two are two different things.
I'll let someone else talk about cam gears, but it seems like most of the people who have them haven't actually adjusted them beyond 0 degrees, so I don't know how much use they get.
I think the ECU+ is one of the easiest systems to use. (Hell - what do I know?) But you can definitely destroy your car with it if you don't go slowly and carefully. If you're skittish, you might want to get some professional tuning on a dyno. While that's going on, try to understand the process and then use that in later tuning sessions with the ECU+ (say, after adding another part, or tuning for race gas). But by all means, get a wideband O2 system to go with the ECU+. That's your best investment for safe tuning.
Tom
1. Getting better driveability with large injectors. (700 and up kind-of range)
2. Raising the 7x00 RPM rev limit.
No. Cam gears adjust where the cams open and close with respect to the engine cycle. The ECU+ timing adjustment moves when the spark fires in the engine cycle. These two are two different things.
I'll let someone else talk about cam gears, but it seems like most of the people who have them haven't actually adjusted them beyond 0 degrees, so I don't know how much use they get.
I think the ECU+ is one of the easiest systems to use. (Hell - what do I know?) But you can definitely destroy your car with it if you don't go slowly and carefully. If you're skittish, you might want to get some professional tuning on a dyno. While that's going on, try to understand the process and then use that in later tuning sessions with the ECU+ (say, after adding another part, or tuning for race gas). But by all means, get a wideband O2 system to go with the ECU+. That's your best investment for safe tuning.
Tom
Dyno Flash offers a reduced price base flash at $75.00 which is of use to those using ECU-PLUS
It offers the following features
1 - rasies rev limiter to customer reuqested spec (7800 suggested)
2 - removes factory fuel cut 100%
3 - fixes high and low octane fuel and timing maps so the stock ecu does not switch back and forth altering your tune
4 - Scales fuel maps for specified injectors and alters injector battery response time scaling for commonly used aftermarket injectors
and
5 - soon to come two step rev limiter
This flash is not listed on my web site but is available by special request
ALL ECU PLUS users shall also recieve FREE return fed ex shipping with their purchase of this flash
Finally - I offer custom tuning on the ECU PLUS which includes a tutorial for the customer on general tuning methods for $200
Thanks
Originally Posted by DynoFlash
BTW - for the information of those using ECU PLUS
Dyno Flash offers a reduced price base flash at $75.00 which is of use to those using ECU-PLUS
Dyno Flash offers a reduced price base flash at $75.00 which is of use to those using ECU-PLUS
Thanks for posting this Al.
(BTW, this offer was news to me, and is direct through Dynoflash; neither Mach V nor myself have any actual involvement with Al's reflash services.)
Tom
Jester has basically the same deal going on for a "base flash" to remove the fuel cut and raise the rev limiter.
http://www.jestrtuning.com/
that is who will be getting my business
http://www.jestrtuning.com/
that is who will be getting my business


