what to do after fried coil pack?
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From: PHILIPPINES
what to do after fried coil pack?
recently, i fried the passenger side ignition coil pack on my evo5 RS. it wasn't a pleasant experience at all. and i understand that this situation has been "experienced" by many others, judging from the results of the survey in the GReddy e-manage sub-forum on this website.
as a backgrounder, i had a GReddy e-manage installed, as well as stage 3 headwork, bigger valves/springs, hks 272's, hks intake, full 3" hks exhaust treatment, upgraded fuel pump and injectors. this set-up dyno'ed 309 awhp. at 1.19 bar max boost. it was real fun to drive... while it lasted.
so after replacing the fried coil pack, and a portion of the wiring harness, i had the e-manage removed. car's running now, and had a new baseline dyno done, to find out the effects of removing the "piggy-back", as well as finding out the actual AF ratio. new baseline dyno registered 247 awhp, ran lean up to 75 mph, cutting off at 85 mph (...on a dynojet winpep7 performance evaluation program...). we kinda expected this, since we were on the stock ECU parameters... lean down low, rich towards the top end (...as a factory setting safety feature, i would imagine...)
my question is, to optimize the mods that we already have at this stage, what should we do to address the AFR issue? should we:
1. go with a new "piggy-back", like SAFC/SAFCII;
2. go with a "stand-alone" ECU, like apex-i powerFC;
3. reflash the stock ECU, via ecutek?
my main objective is to make the car reliable, despite these mods. i want to avoid frying the coil pack(s) again, and having to go through the experience of stalling, and having to call for a towtruck. i don't track the car, but do enjoy spirited driving when the opportunity presents itself(... hey... that's what we all want anyway...)
hopefully, with enough inputs from all you knowledgeable guys out there, i can avoid:
1. spending needlessly for a "gizmo" that's unesssential at best;
2. grenading my super low mileage evo5 RS (... it's only got 3200 kms at this point... and that's not a "typo"...)
hope you guys can help me out on this puzzle.
as a backgrounder, i had a GReddy e-manage installed, as well as stage 3 headwork, bigger valves/springs, hks 272's, hks intake, full 3" hks exhaust treatment, upgraded fuel pump and injectors. this set-up dyno'ed 309 awhp. at 1.19 bar max boost. it was real fun to drive... while it lasted.
so after replacing the fried coil pack, and a portion of the wiring harness, i had the e-manage removed. car's running now, and had a new baseline dyno done, to find out the effects of removing the "piggy-back", as well as finding out the actual AF ratio. new baseline dyno registered 247 awhp, ran lean up to 75 mph, cutting off at 85 mph (...on a dynojet winpep7 performance evaluation program...). we kinda expected this, since we were on the stock ECU parameters... lean down low, rich towards the top end (...as a factory setting safety feature, i would imagine...)
my question is, to optimize the mods that we already have at this stage, what should we do to address the AFR issue? should we:
1. go with a new "piggy-back", like SAFC/SAFCII;
2. go with a "stand-alone" ECU, like apex-i powerFC;
3. reflash the stock ECU, via ecutek?
my main objective is to make the car reliable, despite these mods. i want to avoid frying the coil pack(s) again, and having to go through the experience of stalling, and having to call for a towtruck. i don't track the car, but do enjoy spirited driving when the opportunity presents itself(... hey... that's what we all want anyway...)
hopefully, with enough inputs from all you knowledgeable guys out there, i can avoid:
1. spending needlessly for a "gizmo" that's unesssential at best;
2. grenading my super low mileage evo5 RS (... it's only got 3200 kms at this point... and that's not a "typo"...)
hope you guys can help me out on this puzzle.
i personally have never had any problems with the apexi products, i currently have the AFC NEO and love it but if you dont want to spend that much the SAFC II is just as good just not as pretty and less tuning points. The ball is really in your court though as far as a fuel tuning device ect.