Question about extending wires for LC-1
Question about extending wires for LC-1
From reading the board I noticed the the wires from the LC-1 are somewhat short?
Can I extend any of the wire from the LC-1 using any regular 18G wire from the auto parts store?
In addition, If I where to wire all the wires to the engine block, I would like to bring a wire from the engine bay into the cabin behind the firewall and use some sort of connecting block to connect my wires. like this - or some fort of plug... thing of a USB port used only for ground..


So my questions are
1)if I need to extend my wires what gauge can I use (18G ok?) and how long can I extend
2)can I use a plug to solder all the ground together and connect them to a wire that goes to the engine bay.
3)What think does the engine bay ground wire need to be?
Can I extend any of the wire from the LC-1 using any regular 18G wire from the auto parts store?
In addition, If I where to wire all the wires to the engine block, I would like to bring a wire from the engine bay into the cabin behind the firewall and use some sort of connecting block to connect my wires. like this - or some fort of plug... thing of a USB port used only for ground..


So my questions are
1)if I need to extend my wires what gauge can I use (18G ok?) and how long can I extend
2)can I use a plug to solder all the ground together and connect them to a wire that goes to the engine bay.
3)What think does the engine bay ground wire need to be?
no mine is not grounded to the block. I have never had any issues with it. The led and calibration button are not grounded there either. All the those grounds are to the same ground point but not all the wires into one single ground
I grounded the system and heater grounds behind the dash and the calibration switch under the console. No issues. I have other items grounded in the same location and have no problems with any devices. I've also got a coil of cable for the serial connection left over and wrapped up beneath the console.
I grounded the system and heater grounds behind the dash and the calibration switch under the console. No issues. I have other items grounded in the same location and have no problems with any devices. I've also got a coil of cable for the serial connection left over and wrapped up beneath the console.
and if I am going to datalog with my laptop and also with logworks at the same time, then my "devices" (ecu and wideband) will have different ground and thus I may have issues with ground offsets?
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mines fine, ground to something on your car generally means your entire Metal frame and any metal components touching it. If you get out of your car and your door shocks you, you might wanna find a better ground for something.
Quote form their online installation manual
1. The BEST grounding scheme is all grounds (i.e., ECU, Gauges, LC1 heater, LC1system, etc.) SOLDERED into a single lug and bolted to the engine block.
2. The next best is all grounds attached to the same source, as close as possible, but on separate lugs. This is because even the corrosion between lugs can create ground offset and noise. Incidentally, this is why many ECUs have separate ground wires for injectors vs. ECU system ground- separating high voltages and low voltages reduces noise.
3.Grounding to the engine block is usually better than grounding to the frame.
2. The next best is all grounds attached to the same source, as close as possible, but on separate lugs. This is because even the corrosion between lugs can create ground offset and noise. Incidentally, this is why many ECUs have separate ground wires for injectors vs. ECU system ground- separating high voltages and low voltages reduces noise.
3.Grounding to the engine block is usually better than grounding to the frame.
Dude, you keep reading that manual and you'll go nuts. What i did was, i removed my center console and lifted the carpet a bit on the driver side closest to the gas pedal. There you'll see a metal frame where your console attrach to and about 2 or 3 bolt heads, you could use those for your ground. They are the same source and pretty close to one another. That's where i grounded mine and everything works fine. Now the ground for the calibration button is not as critical as the other ones, so you could just ground that anywhere. Just make sure you get some good terminal and solder the wires good.
Dude, you keep reading that manual and you'll go nuts. What i did was, i removed my center console and lifted the carpet a bit on the driver side closest to the gas pedal. There you'll see a metal frame where your console attrach to and about 2 or 3 bolt heads, you could use those for your ground. They are the same source and pretty close to one another. That's where i grounded mine and everything works fine. Now the ground for the calibration button is not as critical as the other ones, so you could just ground that anywhere. Just make sure you get some good terminal and solder the wires good.
I used a stud I found behind the glovebox area. I believe it is used to mount the ECU itself. I have my sequential shift light, turbo timer and WB02 grounded to the same location with no ill effects.
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