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Problems: Stage 2 but as slow as stock?

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Old Oct 6, 2012 | 10:57 AM
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Problems: Stage 2 but as slow as stock?

I installed a Cobb 3 port BCS, cobb dp and cobb HFC with catback and stage 2 v202 maps appropiate to the bolt ons I have.

Now here's the thing. I'm not throwing any CELs but I feel the car has a bit of a flat spot around 4k~.

It doesn't feel any faster than stock and if anything it is the same performance.

I did a track day and people said I was blowing black smoke like a 747. My pipes were absolutely coated black.

I was behind my friend in his Porsche Boxster RS60. You think I should have pulled on him as we came out of a turn onto the straight but he actually pulled away slightly.

I've now reverted the car back to stock and I still feel like she's missing a good 20hp-30hp.

I took a look for all the hoses and everything seems good. I put my hands behind the engine near the firewall and I can feel a slight breeze (ever so slight you doubt it) once in awhile. I also get the smell of exhaust/gas but again very light to the point I can't tell if it is coming from somewhere else and blowing that direction.

Here's the logs from the track day.

Any ideas?

I renamed the .csv to .bin because it was too big.
Attached Files
File Type: bin
datalog5.bin (1.46 MB, 0 views)
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Old Oct 6, 2012 | 12:00 PM
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Perform a proper boost leak test on the car. If all checks out from there I would get the car properly tuned for the modifications.
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Old Oct 6, 2012 | 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by gsrboi80
Perform a proper boost leak test on the car. If all checks out from there I would get the car properly tuned for the modifications.
I dropped back to complete stock. I still feel the car is missing 20hp~

Makes no sense an RS60 would pull away from a stage 2 evo.

in the maps my fuel injectors are showing a steady 112%

I hate to bring it to the dealer but what choice do I have?

The shop that installed the tbe are just not knowledgeable. When i glazed my brakes they told me the rotors were warped...instantly says they have no clue wtf racing is. Poser shop for ricers.

I swear they did something because it was fine till when I put the TBE on. Now back to stock.

I wonder if a leak on the downpipe would cause this. That or a boost leak after the turbo?

zero check engine lights during the whole process.

Can a bad bov cause this? I drove past my friend while he was recording on gopro and you hear the turbo woosh as i gas it by him with a stock airbox.
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Old Oct 6, 2012 | 09:15 PM
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Timing pull? Boost leak? after turbo exhaust leak wouldnt matter. Pre-turbo would. Perhaps they messed with the actual turbo to manifold bolts to install?
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Old Oct 7, 2012 | 06:04 AM
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Logs show I was making full boost, but running rich (smoke) and fuel injectors show over 100% steady.

If it was pre-turbo near the waste gaste wouldn't it show me not hitting proper boost levels? I was getting 27-28psi.

Still felt like a flat spot while reving. Like it was pulling timing.
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Old Oct 7, 2012 | 03:45 PM
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I had an exhaust leak preturbo on my dsm and it felt like very slow spool. It wud finslly get to full boost about 500-800 rpm late. What is your wideband showing? It cud be rich knock?
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Old Oct 7, 2012 | 05:26 PM
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Weird stuff. I wish I knew how to read that datalog i attached properly.

Don't have a wideband... Going to get it checked by dealer first.
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Old Oct 7, 2012 | 09:14 PM
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A wideband is a needed investment. For $200 it is quite possibly the most important gauge to have. If you had this you would know w/o a doubt what it is. Im guessing your running super rich and the car is struggling with all the fuel and not wanting spool.
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Old Oct 8, 2012 | 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by re-rx7
A wideband is a needed investment. For $200 it is quite possibly the most important gauge to have. If you had this you would know w/o a doubt what it is. Im guessing your running super rich and the car is struggling with all the fuel and not wanting spool.
I found a tuner near me who seems knowledgeable.

So I'm going to bring my car there and get a baseline dyno done.

I have this weird noise from the engine bay. Sounds like a muffled duck sort of making noise.
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 08:42 AM
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I can't see the logs at work on this computer but said that your IDC was maxed out. That's a no no. You also said black smoke and 28 psi. Sounds to me like you are just running a generic map and hoping for some amazing power. In all reality you are most likely running pig rich and making less power. You can't usually go off of the butt dyno for comparison unless its a major increase. Like the other guys up there said. Invest in an AFR gauge. That is one of the most important gauges you can have. Also, do a boost leak check.
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 08:44 AM
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also, are you sure that map is for stock injectors? I have seen it more than once that people report they ran a duty higher than 100%... it is not possible. Your injector has completely maxed out and only ran 100%, you just ran it past its operating range and the calculation shows that. It is impossible to physically run an injector HIGHER than 100%.
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Tom Stout
also, are you sure that map is for stock injectors? I have seen it more than once that people report they ran a duty higher than 100%... it is not possible. Your injector has completely maxed out and only ran 100%, you just ran it past its operating range and the calculation shows that. It is impossible to physically run an injector HIGHER than 100%.
I had the proper map for the boltons I had. Albeit I don't know how to read these Cobb logs other than boost/knock/rpm values

I see what you are saying and you are most likely right.

I've dropped back to stock and the car seems better. Albeit my gas mileage is craptastically lower than usual which I was surprised. Perhaps being so rich for that duration has my plugs caked.

I'm going for a dyno tomorrow to get a good baseline. Looks like he'll be my tuner so once I get a proper shifting map from Cobb I'll get him to tune it with race tuner + wideband.

Guess I was silly to expect an OTS to run well.
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 02:53 PM
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Before you go and get a baseline dyno make sure that everything is looking ok. Do a boost leak check, check your plugs (replace), and cover the rest of the proper maintenance. If you're doing this to get a baseline, you might as well get a solid baseline of where the car should really be at.
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom Stout
Before you go and get a baseline dyno make sure that everything is looking ok. Do a boost leak check, check your plugs (replace), and cover the rest of the proper maintenance. If you're doing this to get a baseline, you might as well get a solid baseline of where the car should really be at.
I'm getting a boost leak test done and swapping the spark plugs in the AM and the dyno in the PM.
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Old Oct 12, 2012 | 05:02 PM
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Well, before boost leak we checked all tubes and everything seemed ok. Plugs were ok.

First dyno runs were showing the car actually overboosting and then a huge dip in the power curve at 3000rpm, then it would rise back up then fall off.

Each run after you could see the car auto-learning and flatening out the issue. Less boost and a more linear power curve.

The 4th run the dip was gone. AFR steady, boost in the manifold just fine as well. Here's 2 dyno results. Bone stock 2011 MR.

Problems: Stage 2 but as slow as stock?-syyna.jpg
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