Before I ask for assistance, I want to thank the folks from this site. Did a lot of research the last couple months, almost every solution came from here. I’m hoping to get a couple more ideas for the current issue.

I have a 2005 evo 8. I’ve been building it for a while now. Just a little background, bought it 3 years ago and almost right away it threw a rod through the block. Replaced the engine with a built MAP 2.0. Got it all back together and tuned, ran 550whp. I won’t get into all the mods, to save some space. Regardless, the transmission started to show signs of needing a rebuilt. Since this is really my third car, I pulled the trans and shipped to to be rebuilt. Figured since it was going to be down anyway I’d upgrade the whole fuel system and turbo. Switched from an FP green to a FP black.

This is where my first issues started showing up. I had the intermittent no crank when you turn the key, just primes the pumps and goes click. I ended up solving the issue yesterday after tons of research and work. All the answers are in the site.

Now the damn starter cranks no issue, it’ll crank all day long and only stumble like it’s about to start. Before the no crank issue I the car ran with no problems. Now it just cranks.

Let me list the things I did to solve the no crank
issue, since most of them would be part of the crank no start problem as well. First, I completely replaced the battery, went with a red top instead. Also replaced the battery terminal ends. Replaced the starter relay in the fuse box. Replaced the starter, replaced the starter S wire connector from the ignition switch to the starter. Replaced the ignition switch… twice. Swapped the plugs and Wired in a higher power rated relay to the oem relay (if you research the no crank issue you’ll see this is the primary fix, after the switch and battery are ruled out) when completed the starter turns over excellent. But as I said it won’t start.

What I’ve looked at so for for the crank no start. Fuel is not an issue it’s flooding the plugs out bad. It does have a radium double 450 pump set up now, but again it worked fine before. I check for CEL’s don’t have any, but before I fixed the no crank it did throw a crank pos sensor error, but that’s pretty common if you just keep trying to turn it over. But regardless the crank position sensor was changed out about a year ago with an oem replacement.

When I pulled the plugs the last time it looked like 1 and 4 were getting both spark and fuel but 2 and 3 are only getting fuel. Since I have a spooling up coil set up I did notice that 1 and 4 are one wire while 2 and 3 connect to the other harness. I’ll have to check the power today. Didn’t do that yet. I’ll check the power to the harness and then the plug to check. I did check the fuse under the dash since you have to upgrade from the oem 10amp to 15amp with the install of the spoolin up kit. Fuse is good.

I did have one other issue I worked before these two. I was leaking a lot of exhaust from the down pipe dump. I tried to recalibrate the waste gate actuator but still there was exhaust coming from the dump. I ended up pulling the exhaust manni and turbo. The gasket I had installed did not have the right gasket. Which allowed exhaust to leak into the dump causing huge issues with the AFR’s and turbo. Replaced everything and it started. That’s when the no start no crank started.

Only things I can think of doing now are looking at the cam position sensor. I guess they sometimes can be off up to 180 degrees. And, as I stated the coils for spark. Outside of those things it’s only the crank position sensor and maybe timing. But the timing belt has less than 1,500 miles on it. I can see the cam gears and the timing marks, they look pretty close but that’s looking through the see through cover.

Any other ideas for me? Where do the coil wires route to? Maybe a bad connection/ground. I just think it’s super odd that it won’t start now. Any help would be welcome. Anyone that has the no start no crank issue I can fix it for ya. Let’s trade. Lol.

 

In response to your question in the other thread, try logging it in evoscan. If you see RPM while cranking then you can probably assume the sensor is working. If you haven't messed with the cam sensor since it was running, I wouldn't really worry too much about it*. You can bust out a digital multimeter and test for power and ground at the harness connectors for the ignition coils (Ignition switched to on) if you are worried they aren't getting power.

After that stuff, the next order of troubleshooting should probably be a compression test.


*I have to add this since it happened to me: You can verify the Cam angle sensor is actually spinning while the engine cranks. My exhaust cam snapped right before cylinder 4. The sensor would bounce around from friction between the cracked faces of the cam core, but obviously not spin around or keep proper timing. Sometimes it would trigger and the engine would seem like it was firing.

 

Thanks I’ll try those. Do you know the pin layout for the coil wires? I can research if need be. I’ll check the crank on evo scan to see if it’s reading.

compression… that would be odd to me unless it’s a timing issue but I’d think the belt would have to jump, and it’s all brand new, shoot everything has 1,500 miles on it. But I’ll have to find my compression tester. But it ran 550 whp and was running fine until I took it down for the transmission.

 

Compression is a good thing to cross off the list when troubleshooting issues like this, and the easy stuff has already been crossed off. Even if the numbers come back fantastic, its still good data to have. You can reference it in the future to gauge how the engine is wearing. Keep an eye on the other sensors in evoscan while your cranking. They should be giving sane values. The temp sensor specifically can cause all kinds of issues if its not reading properly.

 

This is for an evo 8, wire colors might not match exactly but pinout will be the same. (Power: Pin 1 Color White-Red) (Ground: Pin 2 Color Black)

 

never thought of the temp sensor. But I just thought of another thing that popped up during tuning. The tuner really didn’t think it was a big deal so I let it go, evo scan was reading I was doing 145 mph in 3rd gear. When I was tuning the car would cut at 5,500rpm but I assumed, as did the tuner that the massive exhaust leak was causing it to cut. Never got it started again to even check if the exhaust leak resolved the cutting.

sorry, spent two years of working on this car. I forget stuff I’ve done.

 

Ok, not good with the wiring schematics, but your pin location info will work. Honestly, I hate wires. Lol

 

I've definitely been there. Especially when you start bouncing lots of projects and multiple cars. I started a "Maintenance Log" with google sheets that has been extremely helpful. Bouncing off 5500 seems pretty specific. I would check to make sure your clutch pedal sensor* is ok as you might be bouncing off the two-step/NLTS stuff. Also you could be stuck in Valet mode which has RPM limiting.

*There are 2: One for the ECU, One for the starter. You want to check the one for the ecu, starter doesn't matter.

 

It wasn’t always 5,500 that’s was the last log I did. It’s made it to 7,100. I was at the point of getting third gear pulls. Honestly after three cuts I stopped. Pretty scary cutting on a pull motor seemed fine. Tuner wasn’t sure.

 

Could be fuel cut from hitting the load limit. Happened to me when i was tuning for new cams. Was fine in 2nd, then in 3rd it would hit higher load, bump the limit, and hard cut. Was scary until i looked at the logs and saw what load was hitting and what the limit was set to. The same safety feature probably saved my motor on a different occasion when my wastegate actuator failed and the motor obviously overboosted.

 

I have the logs but I sure as hell would think the tuner would have spotted that right away. But I will say I’m not impressed at all with the tuner right now. I don’t think they pay hardly any attention to the logs to be honest. Unfortunately they’re one of only a few that can tune flex fuel set up for the 8.

 

If you can open your rom in ecuflash, then you can check to see what your load limit is set to. Compare that against your log and cross that one off the list.

If you can't open your rom because of super secret tuner sauce, then there are some things you can try and do to get at that info, but its going to be jumping through a few hoops. Pretty much every custom rom is a derivative, so you can probably open the rom by getting the altered ROM ID from the actual rom file (Hex editor) and either change it in the hex editor to match something ecuflash will recognize, or change the ecuflash xml to match the custom rom file. That will allow you to open and read most of the rom, minus the stuff that has been changed for the custom fork of the rom.

On top of all that most all custom roms will have had their load limit modified because the stock limit range is too low. This was a mod from way back in the day that just gets used by everyone so I would expect the tephramod version of the XML should have the correct definitions for figuring out what the load limit is set to.

If all of that sounded like Klingon, you should probably decide how much you value your time. All that info/context is here on this site, but it's going to be a large time commitment to find and absorb.

 

Yep.. super secret stuff 🙄. Tried to sneak a peak Initially I thought I was missing the rom id’s since I had to reload everything to a new laptop, but my original tunes opened fine, so I asked and got the proprietary speech.

I’ll have to look but I think the log looked like it hit the load because it was a round number and every time it hit that number it would cut. Maybe it was 275? Can’t remember. Wish I could start working on it now but I have a “honey do list” that comes first today.

this is just one of my three evos. Love ‘em but they can be temperamental *****es.

 

Swap your Map sensor if you havent tried that. The Omni 4 bar map sensors are notorious for causing a crank no start. Otherwise if you know you got fuel, and spark the engine should be starting up without any issues. You can log your crank signal but that will either be on or off. It has to be on in order to start.

 

I will be working on this today. I do have an extra 4 Barr map sensor. Give me a few hours and I’ll post my findings