TUNA w/ knock sensor and UTEC MAP Sensor INSTALLED
TUNA w/ knock sensor and UTEC MAP Sensor INSTALLED
I'm not sure if anyone else has installed a MAP sensor yet, but it was CAKE to wire using the part #'s supplied.. My only suggestion is going to radio shack and picking up a "Din Pin" crimper, it'll make crimping the tiny pin recepticles for the 4 PIN Molex connector alot easier.
There's a documentation error that confused me at first in the UTEC 1.3 Document.. the diagram shows one pin as 0v That should be labeled ground.. otherwise its easy to follow..
The part # for the map sensor is correct.. and the calibration values I got for mine were (working from memory so it might be off by a few points, I'll fix it later)
84 Gradient
106 Intercept
It should be similar or the same for most of you using the standard GM 3bar sensor.
I also configured my MAP display from Absolute, to Gauge pressure.. It shows the value on the DATA 1 logs, and the built-in text dashboard.
Also, I finished installing the UTEC Tuner, worked perfectly, hardest part is finding a place to hide it..
I do have one suggestion for TurboXS, Make the cables breakaway (since I cut mine and put connectors on it to easily pass through the smaller Grommet on the firewall) and make the cables about 2 foot longer, the O2 one is long, but the Knock Sensor wasn't quite long enough to leave enough slack to find a place to put the Tuner..
I also found a decent location for the knock sensor, so far it (Surprisingly) hasn't given any false positives..
The location is the "Hoist Tab" on the front of the head above the exhaust manifold.. remove that tab, and it has a 12MM bolt on it.. The bolt will not be long enough, but its diameter fits perfectly..
Ok.. where do you find a bolt long enough? Did you save your stock exhaust hardware? There's a few bolts in there that have the same thread, and are about 1" longer, you'll also need to salvage a washer..
Take the bolt, put on lock washer, put on sensor, put on another washer, put on the hoist tab, thread slightly back where it came off, line everything up so the sensor sits flat against everything.. then tighten it down and torque it.
I haven't picked up any valvetrain noise with it, but knock sounds different and is a different frequency and is louder than the valvetrain noise, so you'd likely have to configure the tuner to disregard the valvetrain noise if you get it.. Now you can listen to the engine with your headphones and hear its sweet clatter..
Cheers!
There's a documentation error that confused me at first in the UTEC 1.3 Document.. the diagram shows one pin as 0v That should be labeled ground.. otherwise its easy to follow..
The part # for the map sensor is correct.. and the calibration values I got for mine were (working from memory so it might be off by a few points, I'll fix it later)
84 Gradient
106 Intercept
It should be similar or the same for most of you using the standard GM 3bar sensor.
I also configured my MAP display from Absolute, to Gauge pressure.. It shows the value on the DATA 1 logs, and the built-in text dashboard.
Also, I finished installing the UTEC Tuner, worked perfectly, hardest part is finding a place to hide it..
I do have one suggestion for TurboXS, Make the cables breakaway (since I cut mine and put connectors on it to easily pass through the smaller Grommet on the firewall) and make the cables about 2 foot longer, the O2 one is long, but the Knock Sensor wasn't quite long enough to leave enough slack to find a place to put the Tuner..
I also found a decent location for the knock sensor, so far it (Surprisingly) hasn't given any false positives..
The location is the "Hoist Tab" on the front of the head above the exhaust manifold.. remove that tab, and it has a 12MM bolt on it.. The bolt will not be long enough, but its diameter fits perfectly..
Ok.. where do you find a bolt long enough? Did you save your stock exhaust hardware? There's a few bolts in there that have the same thread, and are about 1" longer, you'll also need to salvage a washer..
Take the bolt, put on lock washer, put on sensor, put on another washer, put on the hoist tab, thread slightly back where it came off, line everything up so the sensor sits flat against everything.. then tighten it down and torque it.
I haven't picked up any valvetrain noise with it, but knock sounds different and is a different frequency and is louder than the valvetrain noise, so you'd likely have to configure the tuner to disregard the valvetrain noise if you get it.. Now you can listen to the engine with your headphones and hear its sweet clatter..
Cheers!
Bump for an old thread 
Where did you happen to mount yours? I have seen it mounted above the ash tray. But this calls for modification of stock pieces. maybe i could use velcro. or some 3m tape to prevent the modification? anyone tried this? I am also thinking in the glove box and wait for the game boy for a display. More ideas are welcome.
Ben
Where did you happen to mount yours? I have seen it mounted above the ash tray. But this calls for modification of stock pieces. maybe i could use velcro. or some 3m tape to prevent the modification? anyone tried this? I am also thinking in the glove box and wait for the game boy for a display. More ideas are welcome.Ben
Mine is literally sitting on the floor leaning against the console.. My mods are mainly for performance and not to look good so I haven't found a perminent location for it yet.. But I have a lower DIN kit which I'm moving my radio down, so I'm likely going to mount it between the bottom of that and the console top (which requires modification to get in there..) I originally wanted to set this up to be able to easily remove it to tune other cars.. so I'm still "deciding" on where to put it.. Likely I'm going to extend the wiring and mount it with velcro in the armrest storage box.. I figure I'll also use the gameboy display or an analog gauge hooked up to the output..
