Hey guys. I installed the UTEC yesterday and we tuned away down at Harman Motive in Torrance, CA. Here is some background:

AWD Dyno
Stock EVO's dyno at 230 - 238whp

My EVO:

HKS RS Suction Intake
AMS Lower IC Pipe
Perrin FMIC
Custom 2.5 - 3in Upper IC Hardpipe
HKS SSQ BOV
3in catless turbo back exhaust

Okay I think we did our baseline at around 272whp and 268wtq. After tuning we were around 295whp and 283wtq. This is all on 91 octane. The car pulls much harder, especially top end. I am wondering if this is good for this level of mods.

One issue we had was that we were hitting boost cut at 1.5 bar on the dyno. We turned it down to 1.4 and there was no problem. It tapers to 1.3 at redline. When I drive it on the street now, it will go all theway to 1.5, but it does not hit boost cut. Strange?

One thing that we noticed was that the CEL flashes at idle like the car is knocking. It flashes at idle, throttle blip, turning the steering wheel while stopped, and during a shift. I am wondering why the knock sensor is doing this or what it is picking up. I have no knock indication once I am on throttle, normal, or WOT. Any suggestions?

All comments and questions welcome.

Thanks,
Darwin

 

My guess is its detecting "Knock" at idle.. If its not actually knock, its some noisy component in the engine being heard more due to very low idle.. However, be sure to add fuel in the range where load builds.. with the aftermarket intake pipe, that low RPM range tends to run really lean..

The good news is your numbers are right inline with the mods for your fuel and boost level.. Boost levels may vary slightly in open loop between on a dyno and in the real world.. real world airflow can effect air density slightly, same thing with variations in load due to inclination, declination, weight of vehicle with passengers.. etc..

If you log your data from a third gear pull.. I ran run it through some software I have to calculate and back up your HP numbers..


Use logger SHIFT-1 and capture it to a file.. find a safe place to make a run, and do a third gear pull.. settle at about 2500rpm for a few seconds. then punch it.. stay in third gear until you feel its safe to let off (around 7200rpm)

 

Well, I added fuel from 500 - 3000 rpms under 0 and 10%. It didn't really make a difference. I still get the flashing cel when I blip the throttle from idle, when I shift, and when my rpms are falling in gear. I have no knock on throttle under load.

I now have boost issues, but I am making a new post for that.

 

I posted a MAP you might want to use as a reference in another thread.. It has a boost map that works for me.. (real stable) and is designed for a Dump-Back freeflowing exhaust, and open loop with all the stock hardware intact.. Every car is different so you will have to adjust it to avoid spiking at lower RPM.