High Compression vs Turbo
I know I read this somewhere but I can't seem to find it...
whats wrong of running turbo and high compression pistons...
I believe I saw someone attempting to make high compression pistons like 10:1 for N/A application...
Would it still be possible to go the turbo route with that piston?
I mean the B18C1 (integra vtec) engine has the same compression ratio... and they're blocks are aluminum instead of iron (iron being stronger) and if they can run turbo
whouldn't it be possible for us 2??
whats wrong of running turbo and high compression pistons...
I believe I saw someone attempting to make high compression pistons like 10:1 for N/A application...
Would it still be possible to go the turbo route with that piston?
I mean the B18C1 (integra vtec) engine has the same compression ratio... and they're blocks are aluminum instead of iron (iron being stronger) and if they can run turbo
whouldn't it be possible for us 2??
the problem is that the engine in the current US lancers is the same one as in a little bit older mirage, they just bored it out for more displacement (i think I saw that somewhere on the site, correct me if that's not true). They're just not strong engines
Im not exactly a savy performance tuner nor am I any kind of engine builder but from what I understand is if you run a high compression ratio motor w/a turbo you have a high risk of detonating and breaking/melting parts. Perhaps the hondas w/turbos pulled their timing back a bit to avoid detonatine prematurely........just my $0.2
note that most hondas have shorter rods than us. that makes them somewhat more stronger and helps them to rev higher. stronger short rods also are supportive of boost for higher compressing engines and boosting in general. but then i don't know much about hondas and whether they opt to running lower compression pistons or head gaskets after a certain boost level.
also, retarding timing has a limit. even though combustion temps lower when you retard timing, when retarding too much, engine coolant temps can rise since combustion is now in the cylinder and not the combustion chamber. this can cause overheating problems.
i believe it's true that boosting on higher compression makes more hp per psi, but lowering compression tends to be more safer.
also, retarding timing has a limit. even though combustion temps lower when you retard timing, when retarding too much, engine coolant temps can rise since combustion is now in the cylinder and not the combustion chamber. this can cause overheating problems.
i believe it's true that boosting on higher compression makes more hp per psi, but lowering compression tends to be more safer.
Originally Posted by Boeturbolancer
the rods are still a factor as to strength. (if they can't take the power then lowering compression won't help since you are actually adding power that way)Lowering the compression ratio in the cylinder drops the temps down at max compression. Thus you are able to add some boost and in some cases add some timing back in. This gives you more power and tends to be safer. Remember for every 2 psi of boost you go up one point of compression. When your compression ratio gets up to around 15:1 you start getting preignition and detonation. This can be detered by higher octane fuels but running race gas for daily drivers isn't feasible for most. By dropping the compression down you can boost more before acheiving this volitile point in the combustion cycle.
If you're looking for power it's generally better to either raise compression or go forced induction. As mentioned, both will put you at serious risk for predetonation, which will ultimately leave you with a 1 1/2 ton paperweight. No one has really tested the Lancer's response to both simultaneously, but given the results of people overboosting at stock CR it doesn't seem wise to me. As Boe mentioned through rhyzin, retarding timing can help deter detonation, but only to a point. The raised engine temps that extreme timing retarding can cause may also cause predetonation. So basically my advice would be that if you want a boost throughout the powerband get a smaller turbo (T25) or supercharger. If you want moderate gains throughout, try higher compression pistons and perhaps a stage 1 cam. I always say this, and I can't stress it enough. Pick a goal, research, pick a path, researhc some more, then deal with the rest (money, snags, etc.) I'm guessing you're on the first research stage right now, so good luck.
well... when the money comes...
my goal was to tune the car for track...
straight aways will be nice with the kick of the turbo
but N/A always sounded like an interesting path for the lancer
but turbo seems to be the easiest route: I guess thats why most of the people here goes turbo...
with the mivec and the increased displacement I think the ralliart would have been a better base car to work with...
my goal was to tune the car for track...
straight aways will be nice with the kick of the turbo
but N/A always sounded like an interesting path for the lancer
but turbo seems to be the easiest route: I guess thats why most of the people here goes turbo...
with the mivec and the increased displacement I think the ralliart would have been a better base car to work with...
There are a lot of cars that would have gotten you faster track times, results, or more bang for your buck. If that's important to you, then don't start modifying a car that you're not really into or you'll kick yourself for it later. My personal feeling is and was that the satisfaction comes from making things work correctly, run right, and that it's where you get to from where you started, not how your car stands compared to other cars. But that's just me.
Trending Topics
It can be done high CR + TC, but tuning it will be literally PITA. I don't see it practical, because no one has an indy car budget w/ super computers and braniac engineers. Look for the example on the net for those rare people doing a G92 MIVEC w/ 11 CR + TC = poorly tuned.
Low CR = high boost but suffer from MPG.
High CR = low boost but has good TQ for MPG.
Low CR = high boost but suffer from MPG.
High CR = low boost but has good TQ for MPG.
Originally Posted by ZooRacer
hobie...if u need any stock parts..let me know...i get u 25% off

IMO this is not the car to try this combonation. Look at something like the S2k for a better example.







