Well guys, as most of you know i blew up my motor. Check out what happened.
On these pictures.. it's the block with no pistons, block w/ new JE pistons, and the old pistons that exploded or broke apart or whatever may have happened. You can see the piston ring on the stock ones..

What amazes me is that the cylinder walls survived without a scratch. we took a micrometer to it and its all good, my friend was about to hone it.. but he said there was really no need too... well enough talking..

Here you guys go, just a little reminder about what may happen when you push your non i/c at 5psi too hard against a 5.0..
Let me know what you guys think.. i'll post about the head later w/ pictures when i get it back.

 

Are you doing all of this work with the engine still in the car? Sorry to hear about your engine. Damn those JE pistons look nice. Did you replace the rods also, or just the pistons?

 

How hard did you push your non ic kit??? 5psi ? WTF?

 

ummm... yes i am doing the work with the engine still on the car. ..
yes it was only at 5psi, i was mashing on that thing 4 days in a row.. so dunno if it was just too much heat or whatever.

- Jose

 

what fuel mods do u have??

i heard ppl using 7psi non-ic daily and stuff...

 

5psi??? wow thats crazy. you have the rrm kit right? i thought people were boosting 7psi non intercooled no problem? hmmm.... anyways glad to see everything working out.

 

how hard is it to do the pistons while the motor is still int he car becuase if i do pistons i DO NOT want to pull the motor.

 

My cylinder walls weren't damaged either. It seems like the cast-iron block is pretty damn strong. I dunno if it's luck or what, but mine was pristine despite bits of ring land having damaged the aluminum body of the head and the pistons themselves (of course).

 

There is NO reason to pull the motor unless you need a garage full of elbow room to work. ...and if you do, then you should consider elbow reduction surgery.

 

^lol...

 

hobie or twinkie - what exactly does replacing the pistons consist of, such as steps or procedures?

 

Do you want a detailed procedure? If you dont want to pull the motor, you will have to drop the block at least.

 

basic steps:

remove oil
remove oil pan
remove valve cover
remove head
remove pistons
replace in reverse order...
make sure you torque to specs and hook up all wires properly

 

yeah its actually pretty easy once you dive into it.. what sucks is that draining the coolant.. it comes out of every damned hose.. and i'm really looking forward to putting the vacuum lines back together.. good thing i took pictures.. he he.. anywayz.. it's not really hard.. damned expensive though.. mitsu is charging 25 dollars per valve. so it cost me 100 dollars for that and 48 dollars to have the pistons press fit..

anywayz back to the subject.. once you remove the head and intake manifold with all the lines that hook up to them the rest is actually pretty easy.. the filing of the rings is a little intimidating i hope i did it right.. hahaha..
let me know if you have any more questions.
- Jose

P.S. Please if you know anyone who wants a non i/c from RRM or RRM headers and test pipe please let me know.. its posted up on the forsale forums.. but some people might know other people.. word of mouth advertisement.

 

so for Mitsubishi to install your pistons would be only 148?? that doesn't seem too bad... just wondering.... how much did you get the pistons for? and what compression?