So i have managed to get a wastegate, t-28, variable boost controller, intercooler, and a boost gauge for cheap. Now my questions is besides installation, and piping what else do i need to complete a trubo set-up

 

Bigger injectors, more fuel pressure, blowoff valve, manifold or return pipe, engine/fuel management a la e-manage, afc, or a completely tunable full ecu replacement, oil lines....I know I'm forgetting some key stuff too but I covered a bunch.

 

Exhaust, andrew, exhaust....also probably want to get upgraded plugs and wires, prehaps new coil packs (not pressing issue)

Turbo engines have to breathe from both ends...

otherwise...youre good to go

 

Yeah, and you're definitely gonna want a colder plug. I forget the heat range zlancer's working with and he's the only one who's posted about SP's. That should easily be found with a search though.

 

Link286XT's custom turbo setup fried his piston rings. You might want to PM him to determine what he may have done differently if he were to reconfigure his turbo specs one more time around...

 

Heard that Link killed his motor and Zlancer is losing compression on his motor. They can tell you what not to do!

 

Andy can't tell you what not to do. Last he posted he still didn't know what was causing it.

 

Seeing a lot of interesting things on here but i've got RRM kit and have no need for e-manage system. Sure it would be nice to tweek the car out with but needed??? Oil system-yes, FMU-yes, better fuel pump-yes, 2 series colder plugs-yes, wires-no, coil packs-no, BOV-recommended especially if going higher boosts, manifold-no(just gut stock cat or leave it just less power that way), special piping-yes, internal work-not unless you want to go over 8-10lbs(depending where you live). I've heard of people on east coast actually running 9lbs all day long but the Gas octane rating there is higher than in CA. You should talk to ROB or GABE at RRM he would sell you just the piping(intake/exh/IC), Fuel pump, FMU and the BOV. You may think intake piping is no biggy but when going Turbo the placement of BOV return is big. Could damage MAS if in wrong spot.(ie to close). Anyway, you are like right there. Just talk to ROB and get the rest of the setup. You'll save big and be happy knowing you basically have a proven kit(RRM's). The plugs you'll get locally-gap to 30! Vacuum line-get locally along with t's. If you don't have short ram or CAI you will need to get the MAS adapter as well & gut your air box setup to make room. Filter should come with Adapter kit. That should be everything. As i've said you should talk to RRM as they will be glad to help and you'll save big as they already have the piping layouts down pat.

 

Boe, do you have any idea if you're running lean or what your injector duty cycle is? You could easily be in danger and be completely unaware. I'd seriously recommend proper engine management.

EDIT: I see you have an AFR gauge, but is tht the only monitor you have?

 

should i waste my money getting a turbo for my AT lancer?

 

No. You should invest in a turbo for your auto if you want to get some nice gains.

 

Air fuel ratio is fine... and duty cycle is stock setting. That is why you increse pressure in fuel system with pump and FMU. This allows same duty cycle but more fuel enters due to more pressure behind injector. Actually running around 12.2-12.9 AFR right now... even on WOT. Trust RRM wouldn't steer me wrong as well since it is there kit i put on. Also with everyone else that is running RRM kit i've heard of no real problems just satisfying results. Hope this answers your questions on this matter

 

Duty cycle is determined by the flow rate of the injectors. ie. Meaning that if your stock inj. are rated at 20lbs. they will flow that amount at 80% duty cycle.

However, if you increase the flow rate with an increase in fuel pressure you will get 20lbs. of flow much earlier in your rpm range. So now your inj. are past the 80%duty cycle way before the redline.

Just something to keep your eye on. Do you have any electronics that monitor the duty cycle in real time?

 

Duty cycle actually measured in pulse width. Injectors come on a certain amount of time during stroke before fire. This time of stock at various RPM levels is used to make a percentage. Duty cycle is the percentage of that stoke time in which the injector is on or actually spraying gas into cylinder. On My lancer... this checked by Mitsubishi buddy, the cycle with N/A mods was 72% average. If you increase pressure in line and the stock computer keeps same pulse width, which it does to some degree, you just increased amount of fuel entering cylinder. You did not increase pulse width or duty cycle. For fact i had the car checked again... would recommend most to do this but need to have a buddy at Mitsu as you need special computer crap to set engine in Maint modes/check things out. As i was saying checked again... at 74% cycle which he stated was fine as the stock ECU will self adjust between 48%-87% depending on how rich or lean it is trying to run... this is why AFR meters fluctuate so much when not at WOT. At WOT the duty cycle actually went to 84%. But we did this by mashing throttle down while the car was parked there. Not very accurate... you need to be on dyno and go WOT for true accuracy there.

What really gets me is many want to fight facts and throw ideas out there that are not valid! Granted i'm no genious or perfect myself but all i do is ask and look up things in an automotive book/terms definition book. I know Rob has stated this before to many and still many don't believe him. Then they go custom and blow their engines I've even heard of bad RPW experiences. RRM engines down...hmmm anyone know of an RRM customer that has damaged his motor(with out going against what it was designed for)???

 

hmmm.... duty cycle by flow rate interesting... always thought duty cycle was by pulse width! IE: length of pulse width during compression cycle before firing. Basically 80% being injector on 80% of time during compression cycle before firing. Then if you increased pressure and flowed same time you'd actually be injecting more fuel during that time without increasing pulse width. Your way is interesting though. I'll stick with RRM and the proven truth they have behind them. You can go custom or RPW which i've heard many problems/blown engines have occured in that arena. Ohh and stock ECU wont go past 86% duty cycle. Is a safety feature to prevent "freezing/sticking of injector." If that were true then i'd probably be running lean at WOT which i'm not. Actually running 12.2-12.9---perfect for turbo applications. Also no check engine light which occures when safetys are reached or exceeded. HMMMM! Your way is interesting though