I started my turbocharge project on my lancer oz 2006, I can fit something for the oil drain of the trubo, was is the best the oem one or something la that https://www.lancershop.com/customer/...cat=163&page=1 (does it fit) + what do i need to by for the other end in the oil pan ?? thank you

 

buy two of those...use the other one for the oil pan...remove oil pan, trace it on a nice flat spot on the front of the oil pan, mark the holes, drill holes, clean oil pan really good, bolt the fitting on with some rtv. or a gasket if the surface is really clean...put it where the hose will reach the turbo easily, without sagging or kinking, or you will have oil scavenge problems, and you'll push oil through the seals on your center section...

 

You could also just buy a 10an fitting and tap the oil pan. A lot of guys have tapped the pan without problems. I chose to have a 10an fitting welded in. Be sure to keep the hose 10an as well.

 

I used the OEM oil return for a DSM 16g turbo (free on DSM forum), and just cut the ends off, and clamped a -12 hose on both sides...doesn't leak, and it scavenges well.

 

for the return line, some bodie tell me to weld it on the upperpan, but some one in a shop tell me to weld it on the lower pan, what is your opinion?

 

you want it as close to the top of the pan as you can...if you submerge the return port with oil (welding your return into the sump, you may create a trap, and then your oil coming from the turbo, which is no longer pressurized, and simply gravity scavenged back to the pan, it couldback up, and push out the seals in the center section...

 

Weld it on the upper oil pan (silver) not the lower (black portion). Its best to mount the turbo first with the drain line hanging down and put the weld in that area. Be sure to leave room for the bolts on the oil pan.

 

I got 2 other problem, now the car start and everything
1- put the fan don't seem to work, but if u bypass the ground they work all the time the car is on, if y chek the relay whit a tester when is hot i got 12V on the output, I always have 12V in the input. (+questionL does the module have to be close to the rad)
2- i got a boost gauge from aem, all the stuff is wire but i still have --- on the gauge, i know that the sensor thing have been disconected from the connector 1 time put i put it back the right way (?) whit the plastic thing that keep the wire

 

What rom are you running? The fan settings can be changed on the evo rom I believe. I've never had to mess with them though. Be sure to check the entire boost gauge setup over again.

 

the fan are fine, it was on my head lol, the rom used the defaut one 110 C whit out ACm and it's okay.

still have the problem whit the gaugem some one have a aem boost gauge ?

 

You'll NEED to switch to a evo rom. The 04-06 lancers use a evo 9 rom.

 

my car is automa****

 

Nice. In that case you'll need to run Roadspikes 05-07 big rom for automatics. Let us know how its going.

 

gonna finsh all the stuff and try it, for now the fan are working, the aem gauge still display ---, gonna try whit a other harness from aem.

 

when does the gauge display dashes? at idle? all the time? does it change at all when you apply a bit of throttle?


for an AEM wideband, three dashes indicates an AFR above 18 which is VERY lean, and you should only see that briefly when you let off the throttle...