I don't know much about "tuning" in general when it comes to cars, and I'm going to buy the RRM non-IC kit pretty soon. Since RRM tunes their piggyback for 91 octane fuel, I have an inkling that they also tune the turbo kit for 91 octane. Here in NY the fuel comes in 87, 89, and 93 (Sunoco sells 91, but there aren't many stations around here). I'm going to dyno it after I get the kit installed and running and tune it while at the shop. So my question is exactly how can you tune the RRM kit to perform at optimum levels? I want to know what to do so I can minimize my dyno time.

 

Don't! Leave it where it is and be happy... tampering with the tune is not recommended at all even though you're running higher octane. Just be happy that you are that much safer. Getting an extra 5-10hp for 93 isn't worth it.

 

Unless you're using a piggyback you don't tune it. ALWAYS use the highest octane you can afford to. 93 is better than 91. Sunoco sells 94 octane btw, but NY no longer has them for some reason.

 

Point taken from two reputable sources. With that out of the way (ok, I'm not going to touch it), theoretically speaking how would I go about tuning it besides using AFC to lean out fuel?

 

Do not lean out fuel. Especially when turbocharged, if anything you'll probably want MORE fuel. AFR should ideally be between 12.4:1 and 12.9:1 under boost. You don't want to make it lean, because lean = detonation, heat and a blown motor.

 

Hobie and Boe said it all. Call me though and I can explain anything you may questions about. All of our kits require no tuning! Simple. We have done the work for you.

ROAD/RACE

 

hey u said no tuning unless getting a piggyback
well my piggyback is in the mail so what tuning will that require with the non-ic kit
i can run higher psi right?? around 9psi?


has anyone dynoed a rrm non-ic kit on a completely stock motor, how many horsepower was it?

 

Who said that? You can't run the piggyback with the stage 1 turbo setup (nonintercooled or intercooled). There was already a big discussion on that in another thread. The piggyback is added to the stage 2.

As for dyno on stock with non-IC, check the dyno list. If there isn't one, I will be the first. I don't have any mods on my car right now other than an axle-back exhaust. I'll upgrade piece by piece after I get the kit.

 

The NA piggyback is not the same as the Stage 2 piggyback so Xenon if you go turbo you have to ditch the NA piggy (I had to sell mine...)...

 

Rob, I'll get around to calling you one of these days. I'm not very good at remembering to call anyone.

 

Biggest piece of advice would be to get it hooked up to an air compressor right away to check for vacuum leaks around the manifold and exhaust leaks. Save you a lot of time and effort in the long run.

 

Additional note:

Just FYI, Boe and I had a brief convo last night in PM's regarding ideal AFR. He suggested a much more rich AFR under boost. Two things people should keep in mind about my AFR recommendations are that I can pull timing to prevent detonation, and that every car behaves slightly differently. I experienced no detonation under 13.0:1, but that doesn't mean you won't detonate. Just thought I'd clarify there. If I remember correctly Andy (zlancer) was making his most power around 12.4:1 with his car, so you may want to use these numbers more as points of reference than anything else.

 

Yeah I read about your troubles in another thread. I'll keep that in mind when I start installing.

So how do you adjust A/F ratios if you have a stock setup and not AFC? I heard from a friend of mine that you just adjust the fuel pressure regulator, but I wasn't sure if that comes with the RRM kit. What is the ideal A/F when running 93 octane?

Again, I'm asking this just for the information for future tuning, I don't plan on touching the kit once it's installed and working properly.

 

good to know before i put that piggy back on
doesnt look like i am gonna need that

 

The RRM kit uses the stock FPR and a Vortech FMU to control fuel pressure. The FMU has interchangable discs that regular fuel pressure (and actually the SFMU also made by Vortech can change fuel pressure without changing disks) and are boost dependent. I believe RRM uses the 12:1 disc however, which is the highest pressure per pound of boost that you can add with the FMU. So...again, there's really no tuning to be done, and really none needed.

I'm not very familiar with the piggyback, so maybe someone else can give you info on that. I know there's already a dozen or more thread out there with info about the piggyback and tuning in them, so they'd probably be a good place to start looking.