Finer points of lancer audio.
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
From: Kitchener, Ontario, Canada
I'll ahve to check, but I think it's the power supply. it sounds great without it, but i may have to use it for RTA purposes, so it'll run off the front channels, and the direct line will run off the rear channels, and I'll have to fade between them
I have noticed it is almost impossible to get 100% silent signal path in a car without some noise reduction applied which colors sound and reduces accuracy! you have to listen real hard to hear my hiss when music is off! that is good enough for me as I have 1 EQ and 2 preamps and 2 amps
I get nothing from the head unit it is my pre amp line drivers that do it! i dont like turning on the noise cut feature in them! but it is practicaly inaudible! My audiophile ears are so sensitive it is not funny!
Sorry, long winded question...
Hey guys... I don't want to modify my car too much. I want to keep it as stock as possible... (I don't want to do any cutting, drilling, or permanent damage of any kind) With the set-up that I previously mentioned https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh....php?p=2008626. Would the tweeters sound fine in the stock location (A pillar) and rather than doing an elaborate door job (and rear deck) would adding baffle boxes and/or a door kit like from Dynamat add sufficient mid-bass or maybe even spraying in Dynashield and/or the dynaxorb?
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-MKWMLQF...=762&I=237XT65
http://www.dynamat.com/car_door_kits...treme_Door_Kit
http://www.dynamat.com/car_dynashield.htm
http://www.dynamat.com/car_dynaxorb.htm
I know that these products aren't really removable but they don't require metal cutting or riviting, etc to install either. Also, to get the best sound I can get from my subs would an install similar to the one pictured below give off the best sound? (I guess as opposed to a sealed box facing the back of the car) Just trying to figure out the best placement of the sound stage with as little modifying of the car as possible. Also, if I have someone glass in the subs like below is that easily removeable or will it damage the car permanately? Thanks.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-MKWMLQF...=762&I=237XT65
http://www.dynamat.com/car_door_kits...treme_Door_Kit
http://www.dynamat.com/car_dynashield.htm
http://www.dynamat.com/car_dynaxorb.htm
I know that these products aren't really removable but they don't require metal cutting or riviting, etc to install either. Also, to get the best sound I can get from my subs would an install similar to the one pictured below give off the best sound? (I guess as opposed to a sealed box facing the back of the car) Just trying to figure out the best placement of the sound stage with as little modifying of the car as possible. Also, if I have someone glass in the subs like below is that easily removeable or will it damage the car permanately? Thanks.
If you plan to compete then you shiould brobably go with something similar to what is in that pic! I may not be the best person to ask if you plan to set your system up in a conventional manner like the one in the pic which will give you mediocur sound! Your factory locations should be fine if you install the best quality components and set them well although judges like to see that you went further than that to acheive what they call the best imaging!
Now onto what I would do... all speakers including woofers are designed to interact with the air in the same space as your ears i.e. the cabin of your car! so isolating your subs in the trunk will never give you proper accurate frequency responce. Sealed enclosures are not optimal for the automotive environment since there are no solid serfaces (walls) to reflect and slow the sound waves! So go ported (the ports act as walls and slow the srequency) and make sure you ports and woofer diaphrams breath into the cabin! Mouting mids and tweets high on dash and pillars is good for low volume sound rendering but is harsh and intrusive at high power because of how closs you sit to your mouting locations! What you want is warm clean pure sound with full ambient range and warm perceptual bass with a sharp punchy ability with minimal listening fatigue at hig volume! To achieve this you will have to use reflections phased and timed to create a spacial effect and a sweet spot, angle position of mids and high is critical here! crossover settings are critical also to ensure accurate roll off of frequencies across all bands.
Mine goes 12"low sub, 12" mid sub, 2 8"s low mid, 2 1.5" titanium compression drivers center mid and high mid, 4 3.5"s high mid vocal band, 2 1"s titanium domes perceptual highs. This set up results in sound that is not like what you expect from a car system... but will be fround upon in competition so dont do it if you want to win!
Now onto what I would do... all speakers including woofers are designed to interact with the air in the same space as your ears i.e. the cabin of your car! so isolating your subs in the trunk will never give you proper accurate frequency responce. Sealed enclosures are not optimal for the automotive environment since there are no solid serfaces (walls) to reflect and slow the sound waves! So go ported (the ports act as walls and slow the srequency) and make sure you ports and woofer diaphrams breath into the cabin! Mouting mids and tweets high on dash and pillars is good for low volume sound rendering but is harsh and intrusive at high power because of how closs you sit to your mouting locations! What you want is warm clean pure sound with full ambient range and warm perceptual bass with a sharp punchy ability with minimal listening fatigue at hig volume! To achieve this you will have to use reflections phased and timed to create a spacial effect and a sweet spot, angle position of mids and high is critical here! crossover settings are critical also to ensure accurate roll off of frequencies across all bands.
Mine goes 12"low sub, 12" mid sub, 2 8"s low mid, 2 1.5" titanium compression drivers center mid and high mid, 4 3.5"s high mid vocal band, 2 1"s titanium domes perceptual highs. This set up results in sound that is not like what you expect from a car system... but will be fround upon in competition so dont do it if you want to win!
Last edited by ExcessLancer; Jun 9, 2005 at 02:19 PM.
I doubt that I'll ever compete in shows... (I don't think my set up would be good enough to win so why waste my time and $ to enter) However, I do want an attractive install too... But not at the cost of sound quality... Could I do something like one of these then and have the sound directed through where the rear armrest is?
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
From: Kitchener, Ontario, Canada
I finally got some pics up on my sounddomain.com site, here's one. it's blurry, but it represents my trunk pretty well. it's simple and clean, just the way I like it.
BTW got boost, I like that 3rd pic... all DLS gear hehe.
BTW got boost, I like that 3rd pic... all DLS gear hehe.


