Well, right now I only have the t-shirt layed down. There is no resin on it yet. I just stretched it as much as I could to avoid criters when putting on some resin. First fg enclosure I did, I only slapped the t-shirt on, without stretching it, and the resin weighted down the t-shirt giving me some weird bumps and crap

If I stretch it enough, I guess I should be able to keep the same shape. Hopefully that's what's gonna happen. I don't really plan on painting it though. I think I'll just carpet it, so it looks like factory made. The only reason why I would paint is because it would be alot easier because of the shape

 

1) It's never easier to paint - you have to prep it...that's a LOT of work.

2) Resin will give slight sags in the material, but they'll be small if you tighten it a fair amount...

Again - cut out a hole in the back plate!!! You'll thank me later!

 

Make sure you aren't using 100% cotton material, because from what I have read it will shrink considerably more than polyester and may cause strange looking stretch marks.

 

i dont know if you guys are done or not yet with your fiber-glass box yet but let me know how they sound.... i want to do one too... but i'm afraid that the box wont sound right or get a lot of vibration...!!!

 

Keep your eye on my other thread for the progress of my project. I keep it updated as much as possible.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=92017

 

My box is almost done. The whole shaping is done, today I'm making sure the top part won't fly away. So I'm glassing the edges with as much fiberglass as possible. If my budget allows, I might do another 2 layers over the whole box though. I already have 3 layers, but I guess 5 is better than 3

Edit: I would post pictures of it, but it still looks the same as it did when I posted the pictures with only the t-shirt on. I guess it's a good sign, I was able to keep the shape I was aiming for. And yes... make sure you look at the other thread as well. His project is coming along very well too.

 

I was kind of nervous about how many layers to put on. After 4.5-5 layers all the way around my base shell, it's about 3-4mm thick and is tough as hell. I can barely flex it at all when I put all my strength into it. I figured that was tough enough. For the outside layer I'm going to put about 4 layers, since that will be a load baring section holding the sub in place.

 

So you'll have an 8 layer thickness The reason why I want to put some more layers on mine is because I mixed cloth and mat. I've got half cloth half mat. It already is really hard, but I guess it's just like in bed... The harder the better

 

you guys are wasting money and time...

Do you ever use 2" thick MDF in sub boxes? No...you brace them. If you're that paranoid about it not being strong, 'glass some MDF braces in there...

 

Even easier than MDF braces, Good ol fashioned nylon rope. Soak it in some resin, toss it in the box, a criss cross pattern, and make sure it sticks where you want it.

Cheap, easy braces.

 

Yes, this works too. I've done this before, but I don't even brace my 'glass boxes...there's no point...they're plenty strong.

Unless you're going 3 feet with 'glass it's hella strong...my box doesn't flex at ALL...and i have 3 layers on the back and 3+fleece on the front..

2+Fleece on the front is fine, also...

 

My box is 48" wide, 10" deep and 12" high

edit: After thoughts, I think I'll just slap the sub in there, make it play for a few minutes, then I'll figure out if I need another layer or not I can't wait to see how much weight I'll be saving with that box

 

Regading paint VS carpet, I'm almost set on paint now. What sand paper grade should I be using for the last sanding step? 1000? Wet sand?

 

Hmm...I always go to 200 and then the body shop does the rest....so I'm not the one to ask.

 

Last sanding step before beginning preperation (primer) should be a 500 grit sandpaper. On rough fiberglass with lotsa uneven surfaces I use a 60 grit paper then graduate to a 150 grit then a 230 grit then a 400 grit and then finally a 500 grit. This helps promote a smoother more even surface. Once primered use a 600 grit to wetsand then paint it and clearcoat then use a 1200+ grit to colorsand followed by some compound and some buffing.