what oil to use?
I doubt it! It is usually sold by people like Jehovah Witness's that come and do not stop coming! LOL SOrry if I offended anyone; but you get the idea. If you have a older motor;using a good synthetic can in fact create new leaks due to removing the "clots" or gunk build up that has encased the motor and lines.
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: PA
I heard from the technical advisor of SPOON that synthetic is not nearly as important as new quality oil if regularly changed. I guess everyone is so busy now and no one has time to change oil regularly, thats why synthetic is better in this sense. (you can find the video on you tube by typing in "best motoring vtec club") He also mentioned that transmission oil should be changed with engine oil for RACING.
some race oils are not even synthetic. like pennzoil and one of the castrol edge (forgot which grade). i am guessing that for the race oil you are supposed to change it after each race. so using synthetic here wouldnt make too much difference.
With all the fake synthetics now (grp III) you never know what you are getting anyways. the most important thing is to change the oil on a regular basis, and finding the best deal you can at an autopart store.
I heard from the technical advisor of SPOON that synthetic is not nearly as important as new quality oil if regularly changed. I guess everyone is so busy now and no one has time to change oil regularly, thats why synthetic is better in this sense. (you can find the video on you tube by typing in "best motoring vtec club") He also mentioned that transmission oil should be changed with engine oil for RACING.
some race oils are not even synthetic. like pennzoil and one of the castrol edge (forgot which grade). i am guessing that for the race oil you are supposed to change it after each race. so using synthetic here wouldnt make too much difference.
With all the fake synthetics now (grp III) you never know what you are getting anyways. the most important thing is to change the oil on a regular basis, and finding the best deal you can at an autopart store.
some race oils are not even synthetic. like pennzoil and one of the castrol edge (forgot which grade). i am guessing that for the race oil you are supposed to change it after each race. so using synthetic here wouldnt make too much difference.
With all the fake synthetics now (grp III) you never know what you are getting anyways. the most important thing is to change the oil on a regular basis, and finding the best deal you can at an autopart store.
First of, look for a thread inthe evo section user name boom29, he runs synthetic and he has done plenty testing, by loging temps, he has done oil analysis and everything has pointed at the AMSOIL RD 10W30 toi be superior to many other of the oils he used, he had several laps on his oils and the labs always said he could run the oil more that what he was, his engine was always looking spanking after 6k shifts and 130 mile runs for over 15 minutes.
Synthetics have too many advantages over dyno oils or blends, we can be here weeks talking about the advantages.
Let me see, turbocharged cars manufacturers dictate to use synthetic and nothing else must be for a reason
Synthetics hold up to temp alot better, the detergents they carry, high TBN numbers for long drain intervals that save you money and hastle of draining every 2-3 months, high Zinc and Phos contents for anti wear prpoerties, on and on and on !
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: PA
False, Flase , False, False
First of, look for a thread inthe evo section user name boom29, he runs synthetic and he has done plenty testing, by loging temps, he has done oil analysis and everything has pointed at the AMSOIL RD 10W30 toi be superior to many other of the oils he used, he had several laps on his oils and the labs always said he could run the oil more that what he was, his engine was always looking spanking after 6k shifts and 130 mile runs for over 15 minutes.
Synthetics have too many advantages over dyno oils or blends, we can be here weeks talking about the advantages.
Let me see, turbocharged cars manufacturers dictate to use synthetic and nothing else must be for a reason
Synthetics hold up to temp alot better, the detergents they carry, high TBN numbers for long drain intervals that save you money and hastle of draining every 2-3 months, high Zinc and Phos contents for anti wear prpoerties, on and on and on !
First of, look for a thread inthe evo section user name boom29, he runs synthetic and he has done plenty testing, by loging temps, he has done oil analysis and everything has pointed at the AMSOIL RD 10W30 toi be superior to many other of the oils he used, he had several laps on his oils and the labs always said he could run the oil more that what he was, his engine was always looking spanking after 6k shifts and 130 mile runs for over 15 minutes.
Synthetics have too many advantages over dyno oils or blends, we can be here weeks talking about the advantages.
Let me see, turbocharged cars manufacturers dictate to use synthetic and nothing else must be for a reason
Synthetics hold up to temp alot better, the detergents they carry, high TBN numbers for long drain intervals that save you money and hastle of draining every 2-3 months, high Zinc and Phos contents for anti wear prpoerties, on and on and on !
What i am try to say is that it really depends on how you drive your car. for me, I like to take hard corners, rev the engine to red, fast accelaration etc. I wouldnt put anything else in my car besides synthetic. (i use GC 0w30. how does it compare to amsoil ow30?)
but my parents' toyota van (150,000+miles) may have benefited from synthetic but they really dont need it. its engine never go pass 3500 rpm and the car never go faster than 75m. and Amsoil is not cheap. I do their oil every 3k and i get 5qt of dino and a purlator for 12 bucks. works for them. But I would still use synthetic in my own car.
dont get me wrong. I know synthetic is better than dino; I use synthetic myself.
What i am try to say is that it really depends on how you drive your car. for me, I like to take hard corners, rev the engine to red, fast accelaration etc. I wouldnt put anything else in my car besides synthetic. (i use GC 0w30. how does it compare to amsoil ow30?)
but my parents' toyota van (150,000+miles) may have benefited from synthetic but they really dont need it. its engine never go pass 3500 rpm and the car never go faster than 75m. and Amsoil is not cheap. I do their oil every 3k and i get 5qt of dino and a purlator for 12 bucks. works for them. But I would still use synthetic in my own car.
What i am try to say is that it really depends on how you drive your car. for me, I like to take hard corners, rev the engine to red, fast accelaration etc. I wouldnt put anything else in my car besides synthetic. (i use GC 0w30. how does it compare to amsoil ow30?)
but my parents' toyota van (150,000+miles) may have benefited from synthetic but they really dont need it. its engine never go pass 3500 rpm and the car never go faster than 75m. and Amsoil is not cheap. I do their oil every 3k and i get 5qt of dino and a purlator for 12 bucks. works for them. But I would still use synthetic in my own car.
I see others buying penzoil or Mobil like yourself at 25 bucks a pot and they have to change it every 3-4K if you did the simple math by the time you were done at the end of one year with oil changes you will most likely be over $75 in oil changes trips to the store to purchase, man hours to pay some one to drain oil or man hours for yourself to change it
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: PA
Over 1000 customers buy from us the SSO or ATM because they can run it for 25K (Here iam refering to cars like you have mentionned your parents vehicle), they spend 47 bucks for 4 quarts and one oil filters for AMSOIL, and that is all they have to buy for the entire year.
I see others buying penzoil or Mobil like yourself at 25 bucks a pot and they have to change it every 3-4K if you did the simple math by the time you were done at the end of one year with oil changes you will most likely be over $75 in oil changes trips to the store to purchase, man hours to pay some one to drain oil or man hours for yourself to change it
I see others buying penzoil or Mobil like yourself at 25 bucks a pot and they have to change it every 3-4K if you did the simple math by the time you were done at the end of one year with oil changes you will most likely be over $75 in oil changes trips to the store to purchase, man hours to pay some one to drain oil or man hours for yourself to change it
I see your point. but honestly i would be a little worried about using the same oil for a year. can i get the same mileage with amsoil under severe driving condition?
Evolving Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
From: chatham VA
make sure if you use a new filter its a puralator, boche, or wix. dont use a fram they are garbage. they are made of weak @$$ paper inside that breaks down and dosent filter good.
also synthetic and regular oil is mixable and dont let some shop tell you that you cant mix them there is a such thing as an SAE rating and the law behind that is to make all oils compatable.
but i do use full synthetic. just a little advice.
also synthetic and regular oil is mixable and dont let some shop tell you that you cant mix them there is a such thing as an SAE rating and the law behind that is to make all oils compatable.
but i do use full synthetic. just a little advice.
make sure if you use a new filter its a puralator, boche, or wix. dont use a fram they are garbage. they are made of weak @$$ paper inside that breaks down and dosent filter good.
also synthetic and regular oil is mixable and dont let some shop tell you that you cant mix them there is a such thing as an SAE rating and the law behind that is to make all oils compatable.
but i do use full synthetic. just a little advice.
also synthetic and regular oil is mixable and dont let some shop tell you that you cant mix them there is a such thing as an SAE rating and the law behind that is to make all oils compatable.
but i do use full synthetic. just a little advice.
Talking about paper filters, i had an OEM mitsu filter left a few months back, when i pulled it out on my last drain i decided to open the filter up to check for metal particles, but what i found was more suprising i found the OEM oil filter to be a paper filter inside WOW what a shock iam sure its getting the job done I HOPE! but still i like the idea of synthetic media i know they dont clog up as quick and can last longer on the shelf on stock than a paper filter.
