Here is a link to Apparts another Rpw distributor that deals with mostly mirages I believe. I used to go here when I had one. Anyway here is a general idea about NA mods and remember the 1.5L mirage had 92hp stock and the 1.8L had 111-113hp stock.

http://www.apparts.netfirms.com/recommended.html

 

All this talk about upping the revs in the Lancer...eek. Terribly hard. You've got to take into consideration the extreme length of the conrods and their inherent weakness as such. Shot peening at the least would be necessary. Then you've got bearing to worry about after that and all the other tidbits involved with the block. Then to allow for higher revs, reinforced valve springs becasuse as we all know, floating a valve is a very bad thing. All this is also applicable to the application of domed pistons and the extra stress they'd put on the entire system as well. Much work to be done. Good head work (IMO) is the easiest way to get good NA power.

 

Pjal, I don't really understand why people want to get the lancers to rev out more then they already do. well i do kinda and at the same time i don't i can agree ya we have a really low rev limit ,but shouldn't it be about how fast we get to that limit? not going beyond that limit ? I mean me personally i want to kinda focus on how nice i accelerate along with all around power throughout our minimal power band hehe.... i mean for anyone that has topped out a lancer i'm sure we all kinda wish we could get to the top speed a hell of a lot quicker ... i think the ability to acheive it is there it's just a matter of who can shift that quick or handle something that is going that quick that fast .. cause if we have a car that is putting out the n/a powers we are looking for , along with adding the turbo powers after that i would think that a car with such a low rev limit would travel very fast just for the fact of having to be shifting rather quick due to such acceleration , all i would hope for is a nice display of power through all gears , and pray for a very good handling.. i dunno i could b wrong an if i am then oh well lol

 

If you build up your motor to make lots of HP naturally aspirated, usually with head work, freer flowing intake/exhaust, higher comp. pistons, higher lift cam etc... If you try to switch to forced induction afterwards you will run into compatibility problems.

The higher comp. ratio and high lift cam although good in a N/A set up, does not work well with forced induction. More susceptable to detonation and overlap.

If you plan on going forced induction in the future I would suggest that you plan ahead and stick to your goal. Other wise you will just be wasting money and re-doing your engine twice.

If you still want to get another 50hp from your motor N/A, you wll need along with the bolt-on items you listed; head work(which may or may not need new valve springs), higher lift cam, cam gear, higher comp. pistons. and fuel management. Basically what a few others have already mentioned to you.

If your still bent on doing it this way just remember it'll probably end up costing you just as much as getting a 5psi turbo kit.
Anyway Good Luck.

P.S. Remember 50hp is always just a blue bottle away.

 

pjal, you can't really say you can't get 170 out of the lancer with just na bolt ons, its a new engine and no one has really explored the capabilities of it, it would be cool if someone would do something with the quads, but i've heard a lot of people talking about them and i haven't even heard of one person buying and installing them. seems there isn't much development on this engine because it isn't a really stunning engine, the lancer is a fun car to drive and its fun to work on, but maybee we should focus more on making it more fun to drive then trying to make it smoke supercars because that isn't gonna happen without spending a lot of money unless your a mechanic and own a machine shop and a dyno and and etc etc

 

No actually you really can't. Look at the results from the Buschur dyno. A total of about 8 horsepower with their badass catback and downpipe coupled with an air intake. Toss a header, de-cat the thing, do a throttle body swap and you get what, an extra 10-15? Those are the bolt on options Quads are NOT a bolt on option since they require a complete removal of the intake side components (injector, rail, intake manifold) and tremendous amounts of tuning time to make sure the thing actually runs. Then to take full benefit of quads, you'll want a higher lift cam, higher compression pistons etc and with all that you must make head and block modifications. Only with work is anything above say, 150 possible.

 

Every non FI dyno printout I've seen for the Lancer has made me snicker. Hence the reasons I never trust manufacturer dyno claims. The gains for bolt ons alone have been fairly pitiful. Though the car FEELS like it's driving differently (and I can attest to this and agree for the most part), the actual gains are far from the numbers claimed.

 

Back from Maryland and look at all of the posts on this subject I have missed!

In answer to one question I read somewhere in the spaghetti bowl about torque and horsepower and rpms, asking why does the lancer make less HP than torque. It is because the 4G94 is tuned to make low rpm power. I deduce this fact (my dear watson!) due to the length of the intake runners on the car. Long runners = increased charge turbulence = more low rpm power. I juxtapose this position with the intake for a GSXR-600 sportbike - the intake runners are virtually nonexistant; their only function is to convey air from the throttle body to the cylinder. That particular engine is tuned for maximum top end power (ride one and you will understand!).

I am still confused from being on the east coast, and have not the brainpower to even delve into the rev debate. Lets say that 170 is attainable - with lots of work and money.

DannoH

 

why shoot for 170 when you can shoot for 300 lol anyway the only things your gonna need are an intake, full exhaust, cams, and a bored out tb prob get stage 2 rpw cams and some valve springs that should put you up there a bit

 

oh yeah some fuel and ignition mods are always good to smooth out the powerband i recomend denso plugs and the rpw fuel pressure regulator

however on the most part i agree compleatly wit pjal anything over 150 is beyond just basic bolt ons and anything over 225 is beyond average tuning

 

Where could I get a stage 2 camshaft, camgears, and a S-AFC?? I know where to get a bored throttle body..

 

Vision Imports has everything from RPW.
Cam shaft
Cam Gears
FPR
Apexi S-AFC
Headers

Just email them for price quotes

 

Must I say it, yet again: VALVE SPRINGS!!! You WILL float a valve without them eventually, combined with holding the valves open longer. A fuel pressure regulator would probably also be a useful bit as mentioned. I really wish people would read to help themselves. This thread scares me with people wanting to jump into making significantly more power without knowing the basics. Yargh.

 

you'll only need the valve springs if you go with a stage 2 shaft...

 

...and he wants which camshaft?