Hey guys, About 3 months ago i was retarded and blew my engine with nitrous. I installed the new one and it won't start!!!! I trying to come up with ideas....It cranks and about every 2 seconds the exhaust pops....im assuming i don't have spark but i'll have to bring my spark tester next time....I for sure have fuel cause the plugs were wet.

Also, Any tricks on bleeding the clutch....I have a loose pedal, I tried to bleed it just like a brake system.....pump up, hold and open the bleeder.... Let me know...

Thanks.

 

Need air, fuel, and spark. Air is pretty much a given, and you said you have fuel. Plug the wire onto a plug you've pulled out and hold the plug against the block or head to check spark. If you have all those, check ignition timing. If that's where it should be, you might just be flooded.

If it comes down to it, I'm about an hour south of you.

 

Yeah, you can simply look for the electrical current (arc) from the spark plug boot if you hold it next to the inner spark plug tube. Try each one too to make sure all are functional. Other than that, check all fuses, vac line, etc.

Good luck and say NO to NOS...LOL

 

Sounds like you're bleeding the clutch right. Ensure you have your brake fluid reservoir full.

 

did you drop in a whole new motor or just replace internal. sorry i know i'm not helping.

 

dropped a whole new motor.

 

Alright guys........the engine started, runs like a champ, but the clutch still doesn't work!!!! Any ideas?, Anyone have All-Data? or have a trick @ all. I tried vacuum bleeding and I still don't have a pedal. I took off the line by the slave and i am getting no fluid to it......also if i pump it up with my finger on it, it barely builds up pressure.....I'm almost wondering if i need a new clutch master cylinder. Let me know

 

Hey, also if it is the clutch master cylinder they sell a rebuild kit and a whole new one......the rebuild kit is much cheaper.....anyone ever done one of these before?

 

Rebuild kits generally won't last as long as a rebuilt unit, unless you do it right. The inside bore of the master cylinder probably has some wear and rough spots on it from the old seal or the piston in it scraping. You have to hit it very lightly with a tiny cylinder hone to smooth it out, then install the new seals and stuff.

If you don't have the tools or time to do that, just get a complete rebuilt master cylinder or a brand new one.




What was the problem with the engine? You didn't say, other than it runs fine now.

 

fill the rec ot the top and then use a vaccum pump to flow fluid through the master line slave then shut the nipple but make sure the pedal is up it's a one man job with the tool
As for the timing check the mark on the cam gear and on the crank then check for spark with a old plug and thenchange the plugs there probably fouled and them try again If it dosn't start it's more than likely a groung, connector, pick up sensor or the motor

 

oh in my first message i mentioned it didn't start....now its okay.....I tried the vacuum pump on the slave....i cant get any fluid down to the slave. Has anyone taken their Manual trans off either? cause i don't remember there being a fork or bearing where the slave is......let me know.

 

oh now i get it....well I swapped the plugs and coils.....cranked it over and it started. It ran like crap till the pcm relearned.

 

 

If you're not getting any fluid down to the slave cylinder, you should start working your way up the hydraulic system to find out why. Take off the fluid line from the slave cylinder and attach the vacuum pump, see if you can get fluid to there. If not, move up to the next connection. So on and so forth, until you either get fluid at some point, or you're all the way up to the master cylinder and still have none.

If the master cylinder was allowed to get empty while you were swapping engines, it may be having trouble getting primed again. In that case, the easiest way to bleed it is to remove the fluid line from the output fitting on it, and hold your finger over the hole on the master cylinder while a friend pumps the clutch pedal. Your finger will allow air and fluid out, but then seal enough to keep it from sucking air on the upstroke.

As for the fork, it should be there, it should just be a short arm sticking out of the transmission, and the pushrod on the slave cylinder connects to that little arm. You won't be able to see the bearing at all unless you drop the tranny.

 

see i'm confused why its not working, cause all the fluid is in there, I even used a glove and a zip tie to keep the line from leaking none leaked out until i had to take the glove out and connect the line.