Ok folks I am using the Apexi S-AFC and an Autometer A/F gauge and RRM's tuning FAQ. They tell you to start with low throttle and tells you to lean out at the RPM range you are working with untill the computer cant compensate any more. Well I was wondering if it is normal for the RPM's to cycle along with the A/F gauge as I get lower. It says to keep going untill the A/F gauge stops swinging and then stop and richen it 10%. Well at like 3000 RPM I have leaned it out to like -30% and the meter is still swinging but the cars RPM's are cycling bad. Do I keep going lower untill it quits cycling and swinging or have I already gone too far?

 

I couldn't tune it that way either. I did the reverse, start at flat line and increase richness until the needle stays over in the rich area. Then back it off by +1 or 2. I was only able to do this with the car in gear too, neutral won't help you. Best advice is to watch your a/f gauge as you floor is and see where (RPM) is changes to rich, then change your AFC to lean it out at that RPM. That is for your Hi Throttle setting. For low throttle setting just watch the gauge during normal cruising and acceleration and adjust. I left my hi throttle a tiny bit rich though.

 

woah, if you're holding your pedal steady at an rpm and the rpm swings up and down, you're running lean. bad bad bad.

for example. hold the pedal at 3k. lean it out until you have your foot steady on the pedal but the rpm starts swinging. then add 1 until it stops swinging, then add 10. that should be fine. then just do that for all your rpm points on the LO setting.

if you're holding the pedal steady and the rpms keep swinging, you're running lean. add some fuel please...

 

i say you should all build a a/f gauge with a digital lcd display. those blinky lights are way to vague.

 

Looks like I got something to work on tomorrow thanks guys.

 

Ok I just did the MAS hack, backed the screw out flush. A/F gauge was reading so lean that it wasnt on the meter. I upped the fuel big time on low throttle like

1k +16 2k +16 3k +14 4k +11 4.5k +8 5k +5 6k +5

High looks like this

1k 0 2k 0 3k -4 4k -7 4.5k -6 5k -6 6k -5

This was done kinda quickly just so I could get it to what looked safe to me at least from what the A/F said. I dont know about the rest of you but the gains to me are substantial, at least as much as the intake added. Anyway I wanted to bounce some numbers off of y'all see what you think.

 

OK none of you have a comment on the Mas hack.

Maybe you have a comment on this. Im tuning in the high throttle, all Im doing is putting the gas to the floor in 2nd and 3rd gear, and watching the A/F gauge through the RPM band. I've been adjusting the fuel so the gauge read 2-3 bars into rich which is .85-.90 I read that some people like to run .92 at WOT. What are the rest of you running at WOT?

 

sorry, haven't been watching this thread.

did you put any kind of restrictor on the mas hack? how big is your opening? if you're running a wide open MAS, hell, i can't do that. my opening is now 2.5" x 2.5" and when i had the stock fuel pump *i think* i had the lo settings from (+33)-(+40) and hi settings from (+15)-(+25). something like that. so actually compared to what i had initially, your numbers aren't as rediculous.

question: can you run .85-.90v all night or do you have to make 1-2 runs and then let cool for a while, and the go out again? before, i couldn't get past .85v no matter how high i raise the hi settings in my safc. it's different now, but i just need to know from someone else for reference.

 

oh, i see you have a cai, so that kinda changes things a little. so i guess anything smaller than what i had should be plausable.

but i still kinda have to ask what kind of a/f readings you get, how long it lasts before you get voltage drop, etc etc. just how your o2 sensor behaves. so far, i'm the only one who seems to have done the hack and kinda need reference to back up what i know. thanks.

 

Well I havent removed any honey comb, yet. Just backed the screw out. My A/F readings on WOT are different at night than they are during the day. Night .85-.90 steady through the RPM band. Daytime they are .90-.95. Regular driving at night, 45% throttle and below it cycles back and forth, around 50% and 3000 rpms it starts pegging out .85-.90. Daytime 40% throttle 3000rpm and above gets the meter pegging out at .90-.95 The car idles kinda lean, at 1000 rpms I get good action back and forth on the meter but at the normal 700 range it gets really sluggish. Also to this date I have never gotten a voltage drop that held while driving. It sometimes sticks lean for a second then goes back to cycling. I havent got enough ***** to remove any honey comb yet, maybe on the weekend. Im piecing together a turbo right now so this doesnt have the priority it had last week. BTW there are decent gains made from playing around with this IMO.

 

so in the daytime you're getting the 3rd-4th green light? +16 is kinda high if you haven't really hacked yet. see if you can bring it down a little and still keep the .90v on the a/f meter. that might reduce sluggishness. if your readings were like mine, the readings might have just topped out at .95 and won't read higher when you might actually be getting a richer mixture. not too sure, but you can try reducing your values a bit.

oh yeah, don't destroy the honeycomb. just remove the plate with the opening and replace it with a new plate with a larger opening. good luck on the turbo.

 

funny how your guys SAFC adjustments are so much different than mine due to the cam work. I hadn't realized the difference and changes in the stock fuel curve. RHYZIN, how's that fuel pump? KNow where I can get one? Also I notice flat spots and hesitation more now with the cam....guess it's time to get that fuel pressure regulator.

 

fuel pump is great. gives me fuel when i want it. should be real cheap. check www.roadraceengineering.com for used GSX pumps or maybe the classifieds in www.dsmtrader.com.

the pumps actually makes (in my opinion) the safc more effective as little changes on the safc makes more of a difference. also, the fpr also responded better with the new pump. if you have an safc, i'm not too sure that the fpr is gonna be needed. i would hold out on the fpr until you feel you really need one after you buy a pump. i think the pump makes a lot of difference.

airlinevomitbag: if you plan to get a turbo setup as complete as the other kits out there, having both a fuel pump and larger injectors are gonna need a lot of time and tuning to get the most power out of them. it's gonna become your best friend.

 

Hey Rhyz have you tried this yet? If you cant tell this is a restrictor plateless MAS. Safc cant compensate enough to keep up with the air, +50 and she was asking for more at 1 and 2k. I quit right there and put it all back to just the backed out screw trick. Im gonna have to root around for that fuel pump that you have. I obviously need more gas.