i agree with black 100%, as i stated in my first post on this thread. "The RRM SRI is the same as an SRI on any other car" there is no difference.

 

I'll be waiting on a CAI

 

C'mon! You really think used special heat-resistant plastic? Be real! Don't fool yourself!

Perfectly reasonable. If you're willing to relocate the battery, it'll be much easier.

 

The only way to get a CAI is to relocate the battery?

 

Pretty much. Otherwise you'd be working with a very small tube.

 

[QUOTE=Blacksheepdj;4790939]C'mon! You really think used special heat-resistant plastic? Be real! Don't fool yourself!




We should lobby that Mitsu changes everything to CARBON FIBER, thats heat resistant, and looks friggin cool.

how much do you think that would cost lol

 

Yes, I am so frustrated because I cant fabricate a new bracket yet, but yes you shift the battery to where the SRI FILTER POSITION is. Its a tade close to the engine so idealy you should have a heat sheild for it. But once you move it there, you can have a straight line run from the mouth of the intake manifold to the driver wheel well. That and shovving that other minor crap out of the way.

The only other option is to create a bend to go under the intake manifold in a U shape and run it along the front grill to the opposite side.


*** edit, the front grill idea would require you modify a few things, along with the battery moving the battery.

What would be much easier and not be that hard would be to start from the intake manifold move up 2 1inch pitch and back similar to the short ram and down behind the engine. a heat shield would be advisible but if you had a air scoop under the car, it would solve any heat soak issue.
****

Sound confusing lol me too.

let me take a picture for ya

 

Yes. What do you think the intake manifold is?

 

I dont know if thats heat resistant plastic, I think its high temp plastic.

dont quote me but i think there is a difference, cause the engine would reach high temp and melt standard plastic. and heat resistant plastic is formulated just to resist conducting the heat, but can melt when subjected to high temps.

I think our cars have the high temp plastic. vs. heat resistant plastic. I think Mitsu's goal was just for lightweight to compliment its Aluminum block.

I LOVE THE SMELL OF BURNED PLASTIC in the morning

NOW CARBON FIBER on the other hand is the best thing for combating heat, but its expensive as %#*. ANd we all know how easy it is to break.

Realisticly it would be complicated for them to do a heat resistant set up now that i think of it. When you think of engine movment.
anyways your talking to a guy who stopped science class at grade 12 and struggled with math. But damn good in gym class Didnt skip a single one

 

I did a little research and this is what Ive found so far.

HP Output = +1% HP per 10 degree temperature decrease

-1% HP per 10 degree temperature increase

The average exhaust manifold gets between 500 - 1000 degrees F to the touch. Surrounding area is less. We know there is a heat shield and the intake is pulling air from 360 degrees but even a 100 degree increase means some serious loss.

Compare that to the air in front of the grill ( which we all can read on our dash temp gauge below the fuel / trip average reading ) being pulled in the from the factory intake and channeled to the air box, which is sealed from the manifold. Granted the air box is not in the coolest spot, but its not the point of entry either.

Someone needs to take a reading on the grill and on the back firewall and tell us the difference in temp. We then need to consider the gain of unrestricted hot air compared to factory cold intake.


http://www.banzairunnerpantera.com/techinfo_calcs.htm

 

will -20 degree C winter in canada solve any SRI hot air intake problems?

 

I think it's plastic. And I think if you finish a drive, pop the hood, and put your hand on the IM, that ****er would be hot.

I'm just saying that parts in the engine bay get hot. All of them. Don't pretend that a filter gets hotter than an airbox. Same location, same heat. Sure, maybe the box will be slightly more heat resistant, but I really feel like the difference in intake temp is leglible.

Once we get a decent datalogging application for the 2008, we can find out. The ECU already records intake temp...

 

Though air from the filter came right off the exhaust manifold where as the air from the stock intake came from the front of the grill. How much heat exchange happens in the stock air box we dont know. Im willing to guess that its nothin close to the air comin off the exhaust manifold.

did I feel right? Are there holes drilled in the bottom of the stock air intake right before the stock air box. That could bebunk the hole cold air for launch discussion.

 

One other thing. The Ram Air Intake would be the best solution if there was a hood that worked with it.

Hey RRM! Put up some pics of the underside of your hood so we can have a look, or design one that feeds fresh air straight to the ram air intake. Design it with a rain plug if you have to. That's the right approach. Scoobys have a functional scoop, so should we.

 

That feeds air to a TMIC. Other than heat removal from hot air leaving the engine bay, holes in a hood do nothing on N/A cars.