where can I get a 4-2-1 header and for what price?

 

I have a evo x MR with cobb stage 2 power pack which includes ( turbo back exhaust, high flow test pipe, downpipe, sf intake, accessport). I also had them put on their hardpipe kit, ams intercooler, and cobb bpv. I also had them change the turbo inlets.
The suspension and wheels are done ( Kw variants 3, advan racing rims)

My question is would a quality bolt on header be worth the cost for the power gains for my vehicle setup at the moment?

My goal is to make around 450awhp. If anyone has any ideas for a perfect build for my MR pease help!

Bear in mind I live in Southern California and this is my daily driver...

 

Wow, this is a thread from the past. But to answer your question. Wheel Horsepower is important. But you must be very careful with your TQ output. Aggressive ramp in of TQ can harm your fragile SST Transmission which was not design for TQ beyond the 30% crank power margin.

Tuning is important. you can achieve the power output your looking for. But by defining your TQ and HP targets you can get it tuned safely for you motor and tranny.

Also consider avenues such as E85 and water meth to reach your goals.

 

I didnt think I was going to get a reply. SSP performance makes a great 500awhp and 600awhp disc clutch upgrade for the MR. I was thinking of upgrading the turbo cams and injectors next? Then if the clutch starts slipping I can upgrade the clutch? I am trying to figure out the best route for street driving? What if I use a fp green or red, kelford cams, and 1000cc fuel injectors. Or that ams turbo that is a stock evo x turbo just upgraded? Thanks EvoSoul

 

SantaMonicaEvoX, I will always try to reply when I see a question. I have a few project EVO X project cars I have worked on in the past 4 years. Some officially with Mitsubishi, and others local project in Canada. Our Evosoul Team has a few things at the core of our philosophy when it comes to building a better EVO. And our ideas may differ from what the herd thinks but we think we are right.

One of the most important things for taking an EVO beyond it's original spec is to upgrade it's cooling system. In your case you will have two systems to consider upgrading. Your radiator and your SST transmission.

Heat is the number 1 killer of car builds, and every degree you can spare your car in terms of heat means you decrease your risk of failure. Even if its a small difference.

- For the Rad, There are many rad companies out there that people will and can recommend. Mishimoto, Koyo, Agency Power, Blitz, etc... etc... and I am sure they may act well over the OE setup (possibly). But the one rad I can say continuously exceeds my expectations would be the up and coming CSF radiator company. While many will tell you not to get sucked in by Marketing gimmicks, this rad stands out from the rest with an interesting Rad tube design which is far more efficient than what you typically find out there.

- For the Tranny, AMS and a lot of other companies have competing methods to reduce the temps for your SST, do some more digging and get feedback from others in the same boat as you.

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Answer your question isnt as easy as you hoped. You need to hit the dyno currently and do some logging to see where you are at, how your current tune is holding up and to see if there is anything you can do with your current setup to maximize power safely. From there you can start looking a head to where you want to go for making more power. SST clutch pack upgrade is recommended regardless. Better to deal with your tranny now, than when something breaks. Injectors are fine, but you gotta know if you are going down the special tune path for things like E85. I highly recommend it if you have a good source of E85 Corn based stuff.

 

Sorry to bring up this old thread.

I recently traded my 05 Lancer for a 09 Lancer IO CVT (Taiwanese version of the EX) with the same 4B11 engine.

The previous owner did build the whole exhaust with custom 4-2-1 header + test pipe + magnaflow catback which was quite good IMO but the low end torque is still miserable. Plus he uses probably stainless steel to fabricate the header since I frequently heard strange sound whenever I let go the pedal from hard pull.

Now that I wanna do something with the car and think of the header first and foremost. Been debating and reading between 4-2-1 and 4-1 with mixed result and honestly, I cant find a clue till I read this thread. Back to basic, I saw an RPW 4-2-1 race design and 4-1 street design on advertise but they claim the 4-1 to be more effective in term of improvement for low-mid torque.

So what is your advice Evosoul? I live in Asia so anything must be ordered either from USA or Aus and shipped back so I really wanna make the right decision. And I cant seem to find any other 4-2-1 headers outhere to browse.

Thanks for the help

 

Hey there. I will do my best to answer your question. First point I wanted to get out of the way would be that Vietnam is a very hot country and you likely always have your AC engaged. When engaged the Transmission sometimes doesnt not fully lock up and engage. This has to do with the design of the tranny and TQ programming. Generally I would tell people to use the manual gears to get the most out of your transmission. D mode tends to allow the power to slightly slip away as you give it gas.

What tends to make this worse is the learning curve of the TCU (tranmission) in D mode. It has a bias to give you the power it thinks you need based on your driving habits. This is why you notice that the transmission fights your ability to rev above 3000-3500 RPM. If you do not have a manual CVT gear selector or paddles then you may feel trapped in hell. What I would recommend for any and all CVT owners is using the Sprint Booster product for the simple reason that it prevents the ECU to learn and become bias to your passive (normal driving) This will remove some of the gutless response in the low end.

Getting back to your exhaust issues. A full inspection is needed to make sure nothing is lose with your motor mounts, or damage to your piping. Many Headers that used a flex pipe tend to break over time due to the constant flexing in away the flex joint wasnt design to handle. A custom header is fine but one must avoid the urge of going too larger. Typicall you should keep the same size piping or go a little bit bigger. Remember it is the design and enhanced flow (number sequence) that will give you better TQ and HP... not size. That said, both a 4-1 or a 4-2-1 header will do the job. But in my opinion a 4-2-1 header gives you the edge with the type of engine we have.

Australia may be your best bet because of proximity to asia.

let me know if that helps

www.EvosoulSelect.com