I've seen a manual with cai, header, downpipe, testpipe, and muffler run high 15s. I'd say low 15s would be a safe estimate without any kind of tuning.

 

im guessing 150-ish..maybe more, maybe less.

 

150ish at the wheels or crank? i dunno it just seemed kinda low to me with all that stuff done ya know....maybe not? lol should i get out of the gran turismo mindset and there HP figures? lol

 

to the crank, im basing the numbers off the engine hp.

but my best guess is that it shouldbe around 130hp at the wheels, probably a little less.

 

so i spend $2.3k before taxes/shipping from RRM for all that NA stuff i listed above and im only gonna have 130 at the wheels?

yet for $3k i can get the non-IC turbo which says 200+whp, but say it only gets u 170whp....its way cheaper to go F.I...just pondering...don't mind me

 

Forced induction will always be cheaper. It's simple as that. That, and with a smaller displacement engine, it's almost pointless to go all-out with NA since you're limited in size.

 

125 hp tops at the wheels with those bolt ons. They will give you much better throttle response, a nice sound, and more torque. Non intercooled turbo with no other mods will give 170 whp on an auto and 180-185 on a manual. Just like ghost said, for power go forced induction.

 

what are the gains with new pistons? or better said, what gains do the pistons give you?

 

well screw all that NA crap man...geezus...ill just get a 2.5catback and test pipe and that will be it and ill just save for Turbo...hopefully they still make em in a year....lol plzzz save me one guys! lol

 

That's all find and dandy that the RRM website says that you'll have 200+whp or whatever. But they mean with it fully tuned and it also says "capable" not what you actually get. If you do the non-intercooled turbo with nothing else, just that basic kit you will be at about 125 or 130 at the wheels. Our cars dyno stock between 92 and 100 hp basically (yes people claim numbers of around 108 or so.. but I have issues with that personally). The standard assumption is about 10 hp per psi abouts for turbo I believe (It's early or something), which at 5 psi means 50 hp.. which meas about 150. Poke around on here, I'm sure there is a dyno chart. But I wouldnt' expect anything more than 130 at the wheels from the turbo kit. and I'd say you'd make 120 or 130 N/A pretty easily.

Intake: 40 dollar ghetto no problem
Exhaust: 300-400
Headers: 300-400
TB: 300-400
Reflash: 550
Port/Polish: 350ish (depends on where you are and who does it)

So optimistically: 1840, Pessimistically 2150 and then about another 800 for cam and piggyback if you wanted. So.. pessimitically, you'd be at the same as the non-intercooled setup cost wise, but also base horsepower wise. Difference being the turbo has more room to grow.

Turbo's can be a serious pain though. Just ask HobieKopek (Andrew) how much fun he's having . I've worked on a turbo with my brother's car as well, and it gets ugly quick. N/A is TYPICALLY cleaner/easier to deal with. Less quirks and issues. N/A is especially good for things like auto-x and that form of racing. If you are out to drag or street "race"... wrong car...

That a little clearer overall?

 

ah....so i guess ill stay N/A. I figured 170whp for the non-ic turbo...lol so i guess..ill stay N/A for now. Wait till RIPPs gets the Stage2 S/C or wutever and see how RRM's Stage2 comes along...but by the time im at 130whp N/A...they might of closed down already...oh well lol.

 

Dont owrry, as long as people are buying, the product will be around. You might want to look into a custom turbo setup. I live in Daytona so there are a few shops around here which can do a custom turbo setup for your car. I am probably gonna owrk witht them since it's local and easier to work with. And I know someone personally who got a turbo for their 2003 accord from Impoted Performance here and it is awesome! So maybe look into a local place if you have one around. From this place I could probably geta custom setup for $3000 which is about same price for RRM kits.

 

You want flywheel HP or at wheel???

If you want about 170's flywheel HP, header, intake, exhaust, cam, port and polish, MAF hack or replacement, and tuning (bolting-on a bunch of parts will not grant you bigger gain. This is not a video game). You'll be real close to your goals.

 

I have to correct myself. I found one of the dyno charts on here... for an automatic Lancer with non-ic turbo. He got 171 whp, 161 torque. So I'm just super pessimistic :-).

It's still about a grand more than doing the general NA stuff to get up pretty good, and also keep in mind that the NA stuff you will be all pretty much compatible with the turbo. A good exhaust, intake, headers (RRM's are compatible with their turbo), etc are all compatible with turbo's. But you have to be more careful about ECU reflashes and cams, as they don't always transfer over.

Later.

Steve

 

what about NA and then turbo? theres a problem solver