Does any one know were I can find one of these and Does anyone know if it is worth the money.

 

You can get one off Ebay or shop around at other sites.. my bf has one and thinks it is worth it..

 

A pretty good article by Import Tuner (not the best but useful on occasion) reviewed the product. Judging from what I read, it's a good product adding a bit of "glitz" to your car while perhaps helping you make small tuning adjustments, albeit not on the level of something of an A/F controller would do (although I doubt you need one of those). It uses an optional unit called the G-Sensor which seems to increase the accuracy and functionality of the Meter itself, so I say, if you're going to get it, get the G-Sensor so you get the most functionality.

http://www.importtuner.com/archives/...2_tech01.shtml

 

i got one in my lancer it is cool its like really fun to play with i think its worth the cash mine was 200 and the g sensor was 60 or 69 forgot witch
my opinion if you got the cash spend it

 

Thanks that was helpfull i found it on german autowerks for 200 and the G sensor for 80 I think it will add some spice to my interior if only i can replace the heads up display lights to blue to match every thing else.

 

Hey man, I was reading the article on Import Tuner and noticed that in order for this device to work properly you need to input several parameters, I was wondering if you did this and if so, do you have some sort of list of the parameters you used.?

 

And I quote the article:

How does it all work you ask? Before we jump into using the unit, the RSM requires that the user input several parameters before the unit will operate properly. These inputs are the number of cylinders the engine has, the speed signal pulse per revolution, tire size diameter correction, and vehicle curb weight. Tire diameters can be found on tire manufacturer's websites and vehicle curb weights can be found in owner's manuals of cars or manufacturer's websites. If the speed limiter cut, rpm output, and speed output are going to be used then there are additional parameters that must also be input into the unit. With the optional G-Sensor, horsepower and loss power measurements are also available.

 

That is exactly what I'm talking about and since liquidlancer stated that has the device installed, I was wondering if he could post the parameters specific to the Lancer, specially the speed limiter cut parameter, I just don't have any idea on where to get those numbers?

 

Hi there people,

I'm from New Zealand, I work for GReddy New Zealand and I specialize in the electronics. I often have to install the Apexi RSM into customers car still, therefore I've had some experience with them. Plus I have one in my own car

Anyway, the RSM is a nice (accurate to a certain degree) device to basically make your interior look pretty. The accuracy is highly depended on the input parameters, especially if the g-sensor is used to measure horse power etc.

The RSM on its own can measure 0-100,200 and 300kmh (mph for you US ppl hehe) and also the 0-100,200 and 400m (ie quarter mile). Without the g-sensor, the quarter mile (all distance related measurements in fact) become less accurate. This is evident when your car is wheelspinning when launched, whereby the meter will include the wheel-spins as the distance travelled, but in fact you're doing nothing creating lots of smoke on the spot. So if your car is powerful enough and can hold a burnout for a while, you can actually achieve a 1/4 mile time according to the RSM without actually moving!!!

Therefore the g-sensor can correct this, as it detects motion, and will only allow the RSM to measure once the car has got going (ie found traction after wheelspins). Hope this all made sense.

And the parameters required are:

1). cylinder
pretty obvious

2). vehicle engine pulse (think it's displayed as vehicle SP on the RSM)
This is required for the RSM to measure RPM properly. For Lancers I recall the rating is 4. Just adjust it until the RSM readings matches the one on your dash.

3). speed/rev warning
These are like a in-built shift light/speed warning light. Enter the speed/rpm you warn the RSM to warn you, and once exceeded, then two different things can happen:
a - the display will flash rapidly to warn you, and or
b - if the two extra wires frm the RSM unit are connected to warning devices(eg. LED or light) they will flash. Please note that the light devices used must be a open collector diode type.
It is not essential to input any of these two parameters. The unit will function normally without.

4). Tyre correction
When after market alloys etc are used, the difference in diameter will make the speedo inaccurate on the factory dash. The RSM can provide a means of correction, via a simple mathematical ratio method. Simply find out the overall wheel+tyre diameter of your new wheels, divide that value by the overall wheel+tyre diameter of your factory wheels, and multiply that by 100 to get a percentage. This percentage is what you should enter into the RSM parameter.

5). Speed cut
Only if you have employed the speed cut defender function while wiring, otherwise not neccessary. All Japanese domestic cars have a 180kmh speed cut inbuilt into them, and the RSM can remove that. This simply allows you to choose whether you would like the 180kmh limiter removed or not. As far as I'm aware of, american cars do NOT have this limiter, therefore not required.

And if you had bought the g-sensor with it, here are even more parameters:

6). vehicle weight
obvious, required for the g-sensor to calculate horsepower of your car. This horsepower measuring function is not too accurate, but each parameter should be entered in to get as accurate as possible. The sensor relys on the simply mass/acceleration(g forces) relationship to calculate power, therefore vehicle weight is ESSENTIAL. You can get this value from your car manufacturer. Add on driver's weight, and another 30 or so for accessories.

7). Measurement of power loss
This is not under the etc. mode of the RSM, but rather the measure mode. Friction, wind resistance, engine and transmission losses etc. should all be calculated into the equation too. otherwise power readings gained from the RSM will deemed to be too high. Find a SAFE, and FLAT mode, get into power loss measure mode, and find a gear with a ratio closest to 1 and redline it (usually third or fourth gear). Once you've reached redline, just lift off throttle and let it slowly slow itself down to a stop. A trailing ghost dotted line will appear above the bars in the graph. Simply move along each bar, and adjust the bar's height up to the corresponding dot. You have now completed the power loss measuring procedure.

Please remember that the RSM is only an estimate to the actual horsepower of your car, and only measure on flat roads, as you will yield a higher reading when going up-hill, and lower reading when going downhill. Although it is a tricky way of cheating some higher hp readings to impress your friends ;-)


Anyway, I have gone on for long enough, if there are any mis-understandings you can either leave a post here or email me on girthmachine@hotmail.com and I'll try and answer them for you. Good luck, go hard)

Regards,
Isaac