theres the man with all the solutions thanx 03lances. yea that sensor is the only thing i can think of since the oil pump is driven off the crank but the oil pump itself could be bad.

 

I meant the upper notch, the farthest from the bottom of the dipstick... I'm assuming the notches mean between here. Mine might be a mm over. I looked for leaks earlier, and the oil level is the same as it was when I bought it. I disconnected the battery two days ago for a half hour, someone said to do that and the computer will relearn the idle. On my way to work the light flickered then stayed on with the idle around 500, but on the way home the idle stayed around 700 and the light didn't come on. I was going to change the switch this weekend but autozone will need to order it in, so I might just get one offline (better quality / cheaper too).

 

Oh and though off topic, today or tomorrow I am replacing two gaskets in the exhaust with Permatex Ultra Copper. One is directly behind the cat, and the other is the front exhaust pipe gasket (directly under the manifold)... The cat back leak i think the Ultra Copper can withstand the heat since it is rated to 700 degrees F, but I'm kind of iffy about using it under the manifold... Not where the manifold connects to the engine... Just clarifying. Anyone know how hot the manifold gets under normal driving? Is it over 700? I'm still looking for a muffler that will ease the pain of driving on the highway and through my subdivision, but with little luck. I want it quiet and preferably able to be bolted onto the old exhaust with welding only needed for the brackets. The muffler on right now has a dent for the majority of the bottom about 1/4 inch up, idk if this is why it is so loud or if the silencer (if it had on) is gone.

I will read posts before getting into the exhaust, so if anyone objects or has any help with how to put the crap on and have it make a good gasket ( disassemble or just loosen pipes, razor blade old gasket or just packing in ultra copper, idk)

I was reading somewhere the Ultra Copper is used on high horsepower cars and is better than the actual gaskets, I would just replace them but this stuff is local and I want it done at least temporarily until I can get them.

thanks for continuing to post

 

the computer will relearn it but u might wanna think about changing the tps(throttle position sensor) not sure. have u adjusted the throttle cable any? u can do that with the gold plate on the intake with two 10mm bolts. slide it back and forth,toward the passenger side for higher idle and driver side for lower idle. unless its set up different.not sure what u wanna do bout the exhaust just go back stock. dont know if it will fit but i have a stock muffler off an 02' ES and the resonator on the mid pipe,that will make it quiet for sure.

 

just out of curiosity does your car have stock cams? sometimes with super aggressive cams it wil cause the oil light to flicker on during overlap. may not be your case, but just something I Have noticed over the years. gl in finding your solution

 

The only thing I know that is not stock engine wise, is the filter... Its a K&N I'm pretty sure same as a pic I saw under google shopping. But as far as the exhaust it may be all stock but like I said the muffler took a beating before I got the car... I'll try taking and posting some pics, I would just go to muffler man and pay the 100-150 for a muffler and install but u know they are going to come out with a list of things I need to replace even if I don't. Also, they don't have one made for my car they said, "bring it in and we'll figure it out"... so a universal I take it. If I don't replace the muffler soon I know I'm getting a ticket, because I work in a small town with police everywhere, and hill climbs that make it that much worse

 

The manifold itself gets WELL ABOVE 700. I run an EGT gauge and just at idle its at about 800, during city driving its about 1000, highway is around 12-1300 and WOT will show 14-1500 depending on how hard I am pushing it. That being said it does cool down considerably as it moves through the exhaust system

 

Never mind on the ultra copper... I've decided its not going to work, I can get the gasket for the leak behind the cat, but there is an aftermarket manifold I don't think I can get one for. Only thing bad about the one I can get is that the pipe behind the cat is 1/4 inch or so bigger than the cat outlet and I imagine no gasket will work for that. Still can't find a muffler that is reasonably priced that I know will be quiet unlike the one on now or bolt on.

 

I am a little confused here. Your issues are not major in any way even if the oil pump was bad this is not a difficult repair so why are you giving up so easily? I suggested getting a oil pressure gauge you can get one cheap this will tell you for sure if you have an actual problem or not. As far as the eshaust repair goes 100-150 isnt that bad to fix it also you can get Hi temp gasket material where you can make your own gasket I have done this on many vehicles I have worked on. Unless you just really dont like the car I dont see the big issues here.

 

i almost gave up on mine... ive had to work on it everyday since i bought it 4 mths ago. i had to replace the head gasket..didnt work so had to replace the engine small stuff here and there just got done with rear brakes so yea i wish i just had a flickering light and loud exhaust to worry bout. just hang in there brother theres people on here to help ya.

 

Sorry, had to take a few days off the internet searching for parts. After sitting on the computer for hours everyday trying to find those few parts it starts to wear on you, especially when you go to work for 8 hours, gears beta, 4 hours looking for parts , 3 hours of sleep, 8 hours of work, and another stupid amount of hours looking for parts. I'm well rested now and am putting a silencer back in the muffler, which should help, I may have found the gasket which is pictured with the headers... looks like a cats face


http://img.meganracingperformance.co...-6-1861340.jpg

But should I just have someone weld the cat to the exhaust behind it since the diameter of the pipe leaving the cat is smaller than the cat-back pipe is?... Can anyone make sense of what I am saying? lol... I just feel like if I put a new gasket in there with the different sized ends the gaskets just going to get burnt up

 

Sorry to re-ignite this old thread but did changing the sensor fix your problem? I have the same problem where the oil light starts flickering even though my level of oil is spot on.

It only comes on while at idle and sometimes in park but mostly just idle.

 

People on the forums keeps on saying its the Oil Pressure Sensor. Just clean it up and check it out.

 

thats what i would do,it wont hurt.

 

I haven't had it happen one time over the past 4.5 months. Idk if your idle is unusually low but my RPMs would drop to nearly 400 once my car was warmed up. I disconnected my battery for a half hour or more, reconnected it, then let my car run for like 20 minutes. My idle hasn't fallen under approximately 600-650 RPMs since that time. No more problems. I did go with a 10W-40 at my next oil change since my car had 155k+ miles on it and it runs great. My car has a manual transmission though, but I don't believe that makes any difference especially when idling. I'm doing an oil change this weekend and will probably disconnect the battery again so the idle is perfect for the new oil, though again I don't think it matters. I'd start with the easiest and let the car relearn it's idle, then if that fails replace the switch which is under $10. Keep us posted