Not really sure on this one guys. I finally got my *** around to installing the MIL Eliminator after the Kamikazee Header thru a CEL. Well, gettin under my car tonight, I found that the wiring was completely different. I see 2 black wires, a white wire, and a blue wire. Now im not color blind. But on the instructions, its showing to splice to grey wires, and there are two white wires.


Issues.....

SOMEONE JUST HELP!!!

2003 Lancer OZ.

 

I have the MIL Eliminator from bigjoshracing.com and it has these instructions for the lancer:

1 - BLUE wire from O2 to GREEN wire on MIL Elim
2 - BLACK wire from MIL Elim back to BLUE wire on O2
3 - WHITE wire from O2 to GRAY wire (on GREEN SIDE) on MIL Elim
4 - GRAY wire (on BLACK side) back to WHITE wire on O2
DO NOT TOUCH THE BLACK WIRES.
Wrap it all in electrical tape or cover it all with shrink tubing and you are all done.

There ya go.

 

Thank you so much, this is EXACTLY what i was looking for!

 

OK, and so i went and used the info... And 40 miles later... check engine light... im done w/ this header... its turbo time...and someone else can put it in! lol

 

If it came back on I ain't gonna get one then.

 

Tomorow I will be installing my stock exhaust manifold and down pipe back on the vehicle. If the CEL comes on, I got issues... :-P

 

I have the kamikaze header and DP as well.. took about 400 or more miles to toss a CEL. I can get rid of it by just undoing the battery for 15 minutes. But I don't really care about it, and unless you have CARB certifications I don't know why you are really worried about it either. a CEL is completely useless in the long run anyway. Just pull the bulb out or something

If you REALLY want to fix your CEL, just go to a local muffler shop have an O2 bung (the port into the side of the piping that the o2 sensor screws into) installed just after the main catalytic under the car. Splice wiring to the o2 sensor to get that sensor all the way back there and you should terminate the CEL light.

The reason being that it is currently reading a "dirty" mixture because it isn't reading after the catalytic anymore. If you put it behind a catalytic it should read the "cleaned" mixture and see what it wants to see.

Now this hasn't been tried on a Lancer... but it is used on other cars by people with pretty good success. The only question though is that most of those cars have dual 02 sensors, and ours I believe only has a single. At least I've never found the second one in the piping. So there is a possibility it may not like the sensor move, but I more or less doubt it.

 

there is a o2 sensor on the exhaust manifold

 

Right... I think You referring to the one near/on the header? Or you referring to a different one? I have only found/seen the one on the header/cat itself. And that is the one I'm suggesting to move to after the main cat under the car.

 

We have 2 O2 sensors. One on the exhaust manifold and one before the second cat. The MIL goes to the second 02. It actually throws the CEL because of heat. The difference between the two cats is not great enough so it senses a problem ( ECU thinks the first cat is either burned out or not there). The MIL is supposed to lower the voltage from the second 02 to make up for the heat that the first cat would normally stop (it reads as heat, but is supposed to be stopping pollution). If you put it on the first 02 then it will throw the CEL once the car warms up.

 

That's what I had expected to be the case, but having not seen/found the second O2 sensor I was trying to figure out how that all went together properly.

So if you do what I said about moving the sensors you could still achieve eliminating the CEL if you move the first O2 to where the second one is currently, and then move the second one to after the catalytic. I'll talk to my brother this weekend as he did this to his car (Mazda MP3) and it worked fantastic and they have the same sensor set up as we do. I'll verify what sensors went where and let you know.

I'm pretty sure the O2 sensor reads more than just heat though, otherwise it wouldn't be an O2 sensor, it'd just be a Temp sensor. But it certainly works off of/depends on temperatures to a good degree.

 

This is what I found on O2 sensors so far:

An Oxygen sensor is a chemical generator. It is constantly making a comparison between the Oxygen inside the exhaust manifold and air outside the engine. If this comparison shows little or no Oxygen in the exhaust manifold, a voltage is generated. The output of the sensor is usually between 0 and 1.1 volts. All spark combustion engines need the proper air fuel ratio to operate correctly. For gasoline this is 14.7 parts of air to one part of fuel. When the engine has more fuel than needed, all available Oxygen is consumed in the cylinder and gasses leaving through the exhaust contain almost no Oxygen. This sends out a voltage greater than 0.45 volts. If the engine is running lean, all fuel is burned, and the extra Oxygen leaves the cylinder and flows into the exhaust. In this case, the sensor voltage goes lower than 0.45 volts. Usually the output range seen seen is 0.2 to 0.7 volts.

The sensor does not begin to generate it's full output until it reaches about 600 degrees F. Prior to this time the sensor is not conductive. It is as if the circuit between the sensor and computer is not complete. The mid point is about 0.45 volts. This is neither rich nor lean. A fully warm O2 sensor *will not spend any time at 0.45 volts*. In many cars, the computer sends out a bias voltage of 0.45 through the O2 sensor wire. If the sensor is not warm, or if the circuit is not complete, the computer picks up a steady 0.45 volts. Since the computer knows this is an "illegal" value, it judges the sensor to not be ready. It remains in open loop operation, and uses all sensors except the O2 to determine fuel delivery. Any time an engine is operated in open loop, it runs somewhat rich and makes more exhaust emissions. This translates into lost power, poor fuel economy and air pollution.

The O2 sensor is constantly in a state of transition between high and low voltage. Manfucturers call this crossing of the 0.45 volt mark O2 cross counts. The higher the number of O2 cross counts, the better the sensor and other parts of the computer control system are working. It is important to remember that the O2 sensor is comparing the amount of Oxygen inside and outside the engine. If the outside of the sensor should become blocked, or coated with oil, sound insulation, undercoating or antifreeze, (among other things), this comparison is not possible.

From: http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/ecms...O2sensors.html on 1/2/04

 

I am going to rip that ******* SES light out of my car! Autozone doesnt pull codes in CA anymore... But i should be able to get it done at the Speedee Oil change place.... Whol knows... All i know is I threw on the stock exhaust manifold and down pipe, and right when i got to work (50miles) I came off the fwy and BOOM the light came on... I have yet to remove the MIL eliminator from the O2 on the cat. I will do this tonight, and see what happens on my way to work tomorow... after the MIL E. has been removed, and if the SES light comes back on... then there has got to be somethin else up. (fact) Never threw a SES light untill i put on the kamikazee header. BLAH

 

my damn mil eliminator didnt work either piece of crap... o well i would definatly suggest that no one else buy it.

 

If anything, that damn MIL eliminator does is make it worse, check it.. I put my stock **** back on, and i drove to work, and its on. I havnt removed it from my system. But...due to process elimination, I am going to put my stock intake back on, as right now the AEM cold air intake is half off, and sucking in air right from the engine bay, possibly tripping the CEL for hot air?? naw... but who knows... damn MIL... and KAMIKAZEE my advice to myself, forget the header, forget the MIL, just put my stock **** back on, save some money, drive to so cal. and say...RRM...hook me up w/ a stage 1 turbo... 3600 bucks people... ouch...