I understand this is not a part we can easily get in the US but I plan on doing a nice little NA build. But I need to know were exactly can I get a hold of one of these heads, if anyone has any connections please let me know.

http://image2.sina.com.cn/qc/news/20...0426094012.jpg

I am left to believe our intake and exhaust manifolds are compatible so that's what I'm using.

This is my build plan:

4g93 port and polished DOHC
stage 2 cams (If I can find those) Don't feel like listing it all but everything else for the head....
RRM port and polished intake manifold
RRM ported throttle body
OBX header
RRM test pipe
Custom test pipe back 2.25" exhaust with Magna Flow glass pack as "resonator" along with Magna Flow muffler side inlet center outlet.
CAI with K&N air filter (custom sealed box were air only enters from bumper air dam)
RRM pully
Aluminum Fly Wheel
And of course a tune.

Feel free to give me any criticism or tips.

 

Been there, Done that lol. Check out my build thread thats a few links below yours.

Gonna let you know right know, I've done the exact setup that you have listed, granted variations in parts, and took it up a notch by upping the compression. An N/A DOHC is build expensive... Ridiculously expensive. You can turbo your car for a quarter the price or straight up buy an EVO. It also doesn't help that the AUS dollar is stronger than the US Dollar at the moment. You're gonna get a lot of criticism about how much you're gonna spend when its all said and done.


With that said, if you're still gonna be headstrong and serious about building an NA DOHC Lancer, then Your POC is gonna be Luis at LLT-Racing over in Kangerooland (i.e Australia). I'll PM you his POC. Look forward to reading about your build

 

I don't even care too much about price because I wanna do something a little different, and when it comes to criticism about how much I spent, well... that can be between me and whoever else has done it haha.

But I was planning on getting the head, slowly buying top dollar valves, springs, lifters etc etc I'm not guna list everything. Right now I'm just getting some little things to hold me over, next week I'm getting my 2.25" stainless steel mandrel bent cat back exhaust with magnaflow muffler and resonator.

Then later on get the RRM test pipe, OBX header and a wideband 02 sensor. Then a little tune from a local shop, I was thinking about buying the software and tuning it myself and just getting the dynos there to save some money. Since I know there is a thread on how to flash your own ECU.

I still cant see were I can buy a head somewhere that has them in stock so if anyone knows shoot me a message. I was thinking maybe a dealership would order me that part, I might end up paying double but for a brand new head, for this build that might be what I want.

I was also planning on upping the compression which I will most likely do because I think my lower end if pretty F**ked because every time I do an oil change my magnetic drain plug is covered. I even use a royal purple filter and oil.

But when it comes down too it, ANY tips or criticism will help, If I'm doing something terribly wrong let me know. For example, me getting my exhaust done and what not or better yet, if someone can come up bith a list of everything I can do that will transfer over to the DOHC let me know so I can get it done for the stock engine or just so I can buy it and set it aside.

 

Well as long as price isn't an issue, because I really do mean it when I say this build is expensive. Upping the compression will definitely add to the price of the build immensely.

The 2.25 inch exhaust is perfect for N/A applications, but a test pipe can/will kill your back pressure, which will actually hurt your power and throttle response. If I remember correctly, OBX headers are 4-2-1 style. I'm pretty sure 4-2-1 makes power in the mid-power band range while 4-1 is makes power in the high-power band range. Since the 4G93E is meant to Rev at 8K+ RPMs, go for the 4-1 header. Road Race Motorsports' header is a 4-1.

For the most part, most of the bolt-ons for the 4G94 are compatible with the 4G93E: Intake, Throttle body, Intake manifold, etc. Id do all the bolt-ons first before moving into the block/ swapping the head.

 

So in this case I will actually need the back-pressure created by the OEM Cat.? Just get a header along with my exhaust or should I look into getting like a magnaflow high flow cat for a small amount of back-pressure? And i didn't know increasing the compression would increase the price dramatically, what I've noticed on other builds that for the stroker kit different compression didn't mean different price, at least not a big price difference.

 

Do you have goals as far as HP? If being different is the only goal, a Turbo is different...NA is the same ol stuff all honda's at walmart do.

 

Well people turbo lancers all the time for a decent amount of HP (for what we drive) but I don't like the idea of having turbo lag either. Yet i want about the same power if not more than a low boosted 4g93 sohc. I was planning on raising the compression a s**t tone compared to stock and even going with an ITB set up. Yea Honda's do it all the time, but a hard core N/A 4g93 dohc build, not so much. Especially compared to the turbo builds. And when it comes to goals, well... I'ma keep that to myself till the very end. You can look up other N/A dohc lancer builds and try to compare, those are all stage 1 (ish) I plan on going ***** out. If i can find the best part, ill buy it (stage 3 cams etc.) I've build a few motors as well so I will be doing all of my own work in my clean room at home. Which is just a semi-dust free walk in closet basically.

 

Magnaflow hi-flow killed my back pressure. Lost TQ and power in the mid-power band. For a N/A build, stick to the stock cat IMO. As for the price difference, it won't be so bad if you're doing the work yourself. But when you start purchasing Hi-Compression pistons, forged rods, etc... The price sky rockets, especially since Lancers don't have a broad selection of manufacturers to choose from unlike Honda.

Like HornstarBU said, whats the purpose of your build? Are you looking to do a drag, road racing, autocross? Is this gonna be a track only car or a daily driver.

 

Planning on it being a daily driver, even though it won't technically be legal. And I want it set up for a track car, something that can be under a lot of stress, high revs for extended periods of time. I understand there are some crazy things you can do to the head making an engine "safely" rev to 10k. Weather or not I actually rev it that high very often, I'm looking for something like this, similar to what the NASCAR set up is like, or even like a drift cars engine set up. Again, lot of strain for extended periods of time.

This is just what I want, Its not like I'm actually going to be putting my car under so much strain for that long, I'm not talking 200 laps. I don't know if any of you guys know what I mean but I'm having trouble finding words to explain it. Hopefully someone will understand.

 

I understand what you mean because that's the direction I'm headed. The only input I have is that too aggressive of a build will be too impractical as a daily driver. I'd say stay with the stock cams because they're already meant to Rev at 9K+ and aftermarket intake (Rather than ITBs), etc. Once you're maxed out on stage one stuff and have another reliable daily driver, then you can work your way to stage two/three. Considering how expensive this build could be, you really wanna try and get it right the first time and not lose all the money you invested because of knocking due to too high of a compression/ bad piston sizing or straight up detonation.

 

Well remember I am going to completly build the head off the car until it is finished and also being im increasing the compression to 13:1 I will have another bottom end as well, so all in all it will be a straight up engine swap. By then i will have another car of some sort and then just do the swap, get the stand alone ECU and all the other necessities, i plan on running a high octane racing fuel or Meth maybe once i do more research on it.

Plan on maybe getting 230whp:
ITB's
Port and polished 4g93 DOHC head
Custom Billet Cams (296 degrees with a 11.5mm lift)
1mm Oversized valves
Jun Auto Japan valve springs
.6mm gasket set
Mivec gear set with a 4.625 final drive
Forged pistons
Forged rods
OEM crank Knifed and polished
Sleeved cylinders
OBX header
2.5" stainless mandrel bent exhaust with magnaflow Glasspack (resonator) and 2.5"in-2.5" out muffler
K&N CAI
Stand alone ECU

That's just the major stuff of course I'm going to get little things that will make a difference like electrical water pump

 

Sounds like a solid build. 230whp sounds like it's stretching it. 230HP to the crank sounds a bit more realistic. In any case, if there's a will, there's a way. Keep in mind that at 13:1 compression, you run the high risk of knocking issues. Make sure whoever makes your pistons quadruple checks the dimensions. Getting the cylinders sleaved is smart, the cylinder walls of the 4G94 is pencil thin. I had my cylinders bored to bring me up to 2.03 L (At least I think it's 2.03L. The pistons I got were over .20"), but I also run the risk of the walls cracking.
Looking at your list of goodies, unless you do 100% of the work yourself, you're looking at a $10,000+ Build... Kudos lol

 

I will be doing all of the labor myself except for the actual machining and tuning, but even then I might even do the tuning myself and just have it dyno tested at a local tuning shop. I do know it is possible to run the 13:1 compression with a cocktail if you will of piston, rod and crank combinations. As you see I did say OEM crank because the crank will still be a Mitsubishi OEM crank, just might not be for the 4g94, but from some 4g9x engine family. And with the parts I listed along with the 13:1 compression, the 230whp would not be outrageous, I mean, it would be crazy but pretty close to that goal nonetheless. And it especially realistic running Meth, that stuff is insane.

After crunching the numbers, I'm now debating on going through with this build being I am already starting, a true S13 Silvia chassis, starting from literally the bare unibody frame and going to drop in an RB26DET estimated 1200awhp (yes AWHP). The motor alone (emphasis on alone) is running me about 18 grand.

 

Machining was my the issue with cost for me. My install went from $500 for a local shop to do the swap (I was overseas and couldn't do it) to $3000 to get the head ported and block bored. No one really makes a aftermarket crank for a 4G94. Getting it machined is your best, cost-effective bet.

IMHO, if I had the opportunity to start fresh and go turbo, saving the cash, I would've. Newer small turbos are pretty good at spooling quick, plus parts are more readily available than if you were to purchase all your parts from Australia (Which you'll have to since no one carries these parts domestically). With all the money you invest on a DOHC Lancer build, the return won't even be close, should you decide to sell you Lancer or part out. Unless my car gets totaled (Knock on wood**), I'm neither selling nor parting out my car since I'd be at a ridiculously huge loss. At least there's a market for Silvia's and there's definitely a market for RB26's.

Btw, not that it's any of my business, but where the heck are you buying an RB26DET for $18K from?! That's a freakin' rip off! Even if it's built with ~1200awhp (Which can be done fairly easily for an RB26) it should only be $8-10K tops,You can pick up a whole motor, in some instances with the Tranny, for around $4-8K depending on the mileage. I did a quick search on google and found a DETT for $5000. Unless it's being machined from scratch with aftermarket everything installed with warranty, a stand alone stock motor shouldn't cost no more than 6K tops. Just trying to make sure you don't get ripped off.

I personally wanna do a RWD S12 build. I'm a fan of those late 80's hatch styles lol

 

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