so a 2.5 exhaust with an intake shows more torque than a stock exhaust with an intake?

 

Thanks for all the comments guys.. I'm going to try and resumarize all the new information thats been added since my original post here in a few. Still triyng to knock some things out here at work!

Thanks,
mechtn

 

http://www.importtuner.com/tech/0205...cer/index.html

 

Well, I guess that says that. I have 120 torque with an RMR intake, 2.25" exhaust, AND reflashed ECU.

 

ok RMR doesnt make a header for the USlancer, why didnt anybody correct that?

 

They DID make a header for the US Lancer, but it was discontinued due to lack of interest. They actually made a VERY nice header, but it was also comparatively very expensive ($575 if I remember correctly with no downpipe).

 

we dont even have inspections in florida so i dont have to worry about that crap.

 

Here is an update of what i've learned. What do you think? Should i change anything about it or use different wording? I'm triyng to make a newbies guide to lancer upgrades.

The Lancer’s stock exhaust system is pretty restrictive and there is a definite benefit to upgrading it. Inside the stock exhaust manifold there is a catalytic converter and an o2 sensor. Your only option as far as an upgrade goes it replacing the exhaust manifold with a header. The next part of the exhaust is the downpipe, which connects the exhaust manifold to the 2nd catalytic converter. The downpipe should be replaced with the same size piping as your cat-back piping. Next is the second catalytic converter and another o2 sensor, which sits just in front of the cat-back piping. This can be replaced with either a high-flow cat or a testpipe. Keep in mind that these are two totally different things. A testpipe is straight piping, where a high-flow cat has some filtering material in it still. The cat-back piping can be upgraded to a larger size to allow for better airflow as well. The last piece is the muffler which controls the sound level. Most cat-back systems already have been paired with a specific muffler for a specific application, but you can have a custom job done for a specific muffler you’d like. It’s recommended to get 2.25” or 2.5" system for best performance depending on other mods already done to the engine. Another piece you can add is called a resonator. A resonator is a small “mini muffler” that sits in the middle of your exhaust system and is meant to quite it down. Also you can have a silencer put into the actual muffler to quite down the system as well. Make sure if you replace anything exhaust related that the o2 sensor is guaranteed to still function correctly so your check engine light will not come on and modifying anything past the stock exhaust system may not pass emissions testing or visual inspections. Save your stock heat shield to put on over aftermarket headers to pass a visual inspection. Some of the companies that are making aftermarket exhaust components are RRM, RMR, RPW, Kamikaze, and Buschurs.

Thanks,
mechtn

 

thats pretty much it, if u do change your header, the ses light will most likely come on anyway. those companies are mostly for the header, most people with exhausts on have magnaflow and GReddy, those are both 2.25 piping. burscher is the 2.5, or u can custom pipe and blah blah. But yeah, the lancers exhaust system is constrictive. But i think the ecu and fuel mods are a even big hinderance, but im not gonna get into that

 

divide it out into a couple of paragraphs. it makes it easier to read and less intimidating to look at.

 

Wow, that was actually really helpful... good thread.

Fox

 

For exhaust scavenging, I'm actually a fan of the smaller diameter DP piping (2.25"). DPs are relatively easy to fabricate and do a lot for engine response (and maybe a little for overall HP in the upper powerband). The stock POS is just ridiculous- you'll see what I mean once you take yours off.
None of my local speed shops recommend flex sections, actually only one was willing to order them- the problem is they leak (ask anyone who's had the Buschur DP on for any period of time). Of course, if you do a solid DP you also need to upgrade at least your front motor mount to reduce engine movement... but hey, you were gonna do that anyway

The SRT-4 on has a resonator, and no true muffler. It's all in the placement of the res. The fewer of these restrictions the better the exhaust will flow, and straighter is usually conducive to better flow. However, a certain amount of turbulent flow is needed to keep all of the exhaust moving at relatively the same speed. If you get too much laminar flow, only the "core" of the exhaust cloud is really moving through the piping.
Laminar flow\/
--------------------
>>
>>>
>>>>>>
>>>
>>
---------------------

Turbulent flow \/
---------------------
>*>*>*>>
>*>*>*>*>>
>*>*>*>*>*>
>*>*>*>*>>
>*>*>*>>
---------------------

Good write up, though. But like Rhyzin said, go back and make a few paragraphs out of that so it's a little more useful

 

It seems like some people prefer 2.25" DP compared to a 2.5" DP, but others seem to disagree. For a non-turbo lancer, with a few upgrades (piggyback ECU, Throttle Body) which is the BEST size DP?

 

for our lancers if we are going turbo would it hurt to go with a 3'' pipe exhaust, would it be bad

 

If you have a turbo go with a 2.5" setup, or a 3" setup. In response to your question, a 3" setup would be just fine for a turbo lancer :P