i got to thinking: i'm wanting to go FI soon enough, so what would have happened if i was turbo charged and the same type of thing happened? supercharged? obviously different circumstances cause the exhaust drives the turbo, so perhaps that would have been more catastrophic?

 

Then the turbo would have fallen off the car.

Turbo - You'd just lose boost, basically.

SC - the same as in N/A. Just no backpressure.

 

hmm, just a wakeup call if this kinda stuff happens with n/a, you are doubly screwed with f/i if you don't keep up with your stuff

 

That's what Vince did with the turbo kit I bought off of him. The header and turbo pipe are welded together. DP was not welded, but I'm sure the NY salt rusted everything together quite nicely.

Hey, it could have been a lot worse when you look at it. Just be thankful nothing caught fire?

 

So u mean there is a free DP laying somewhere between the midwest and the east coast?

road trip!

 

nah, it just came disconnected at the header/dp connection. it was still hanging on by the cat connection, kinda flopping around LOL

 

Damn, I was just starting to pack...

Why not try those nuts with that polymer griptite liner? They claim that nothing can shake em loose.

 

dam, i never thought of that. yeah, i know the ones your talking about, i'll see if i can find some around here

wait, whats the temp limit on that plastic though?

 

that is some crazy stuff man. Sorry to hear about the fan.

 

Doesnt matter, because if the plastic melts and fuses to the bolt u have a stronger grip

 

hmm, not quite. see, the bolts fell off when the car was on, ergo, when the engine was running, ergo when the headers were hot

when the headers are hot, they are hot enough to melt plastic. so at the time when i need the grip the most, the plastic would be a gooey mess, as someone pointed out before, lubricating the threads making the nuts vibrate off easier

 

Then how exactly do u propose to fix it? Polymer nuts wont help, threadlocker wont help... what next?

 

You use *brand new* locking washers (and maybe bolts too.. they are cheap) and torque them down really tight when the car is cold.. (just think of how tight they were from factory specs when you had to get them off for the first time) That way when the car heats up and the metal expands, there is no chance of them coming off. Clean off the bolts and threads, then start over. After your run your car for a day or two, go back and check to see if they got loose. Tighten them up if necessary.
I'm not sure what they use at the factory, but they have some type of sealant that is for high heat applications. You might want to go to the dealership and see what it is called.

 

Actually loctite blue is -65 deg. to +300 deg. F same for loctite red. Difference between two is blue is for 1/4" to 3/4" bolt diameters and red is for 3/8" to 1" diam. bolts. also you need to heat up the loctite to get the bolt off( i think to either 450 to 500 degrees F) or use something torquey to get the seal broken.
Plus, make sure you get grade 8 bolts if you are to replace bolts on any part of the exhaust.

 

I know there is a loctite heat application that can withstand 450 degrees...