that rich smell should go away, i got it at first. it was gone in less than a day. i was mixing a blend of 93 and 87 (~90 octane) at the time, so it was some funky gas. i didn't notice the car pissing through gas at all, so there may be an issue. you ought to invest in a OBD-II scanner, it's definitely worth the money. i never thought i'd need it again after i dealt with my CEL, but then i helped out my mother, my friend, and soon my girlfriend if she buys me the OBD-I goodies to read her car.

i think you got screwed hard on the install, especially if you're throwing a CEL. there are even instructions from RRM on here for the install on an automatic (i had a bit of a harder time since i have a manual). i never had any issues with the car running strange or throwing codes.

the tuning should be beneficial, i'm running mine with the base map from RRM. i figured that these guys are in the lancer business and that their settings should be good enough for me to not have to mess with and re-tune.

essentially you and i have the same mods done to our cars to a T. you shouldn't be having issues with the piggyback. if you've got the install instructions with you (if you don't just look them up here) you should go check out your ECU wiring (it takes literally a second to get to the ECU) and make sure everything is on the up-and-up.

be sure to post updates for us!

 

I will. What gains did you notice atilla? I am still at the very minimal gains stage. I am actually headed outside right now to reset the ecu, let the car sit and idle for 15 minutes (they MIGHT not have done that) and plug the computer into it and see whats up and if I can tell anything. Be back in a bit to post whats going on.

BTW, I have complete confidence in this product, don't get me wrong. I believe it is something simple. A CEL means there is an abnormality and something isn't working properly. I might be still running off of the stock ECU's maps and the piggy might not be doing anything. Anyway, I still highly recommend RRM as Rob's customer service is excellent. I WILL GET THIS THING WORKING!

 

Ok, back with an update. I checked all connections and from what it looks like they are very good. I reset the ECU and let it idle for about 15 minutes. Then took it out for about 20 minutes without going over 2500 RPMS, and then let it sit a second, turned it off, turned it back on and then took it out on a test run. Impressions, good throttle response. AMAZING performance from a roll... It absolutely pulls like a VERY tiny turbo but without the spoolup time. 0-60 might have been helped a little. But the lower to middle RPM's definately need some tuning (on my car at least). Upper RPM's pull like a champ but I think I can pull some more out of the car with an awesome tune. Will post results of that friday!

 

If all you have in the way of mods are what you have listed then I'd hold off on the pro tune. Finish off your I/H/E setup and then tune. I'd definatly suggest a larger Intake Mani and bored throttle body for sure and consider a aftermarket header. Then tune it. Heck by the time you have all of your N/A stuff done you'll most likely be to the point where you are learning to tune for yourself. Just my .02

Fox

 

I think I am going to have it protuned since they only charge 50 an hour to tune. Also, he is going to show me how to tune it. I will not be upgrading for a while longer but my mods will probably limit themselves to headers, ported IM, and bored TB. After that I am stopping the engine modifications. None of those will be done for a while though so I want to enjoy a good tune until then. I probably will just use that tune and optimize it myself for each of those mods though. Car continues to learn and performance continues to increase. Will give detailed report once tuning is done.

 

How is getting a tune going to work? I've called around here in Orlando Florida and they either don't have the software or they don't do imports. I have evoscan, and ecuflash, and the cable, but I still don't know what to do so I have been calling the pros myself. Let me know how that goes for you. Also, If you are getting a tune why would you need the Piggyback. Aren't they reflashing your stock ECU? I want to get a tune also so if you could explain how your going about this I would appreciate it.

 

Basically the piggyback I bought has a base tune (as you may well know) that alters fuel etc. But mainly the fuel. Say for instance the car runs stock WOT at 10.7 AFR. The stoich (perfect match between too rich and too lean) is GENERALLY around 13.1-13.2 with 91+ octane gasoline. The current tune on the piggyback is for 89 and might be around 12 AFR. This is a good tune, but with using higher octane gas I will be able to bump the AFR up to run with more air and less fuel. I bought the RRM software for $50 so I can hook up a computer to it and input the variation from factory ECU. For example, 10 is a neutral value. 11 is adding fuel, 9 subtracts fuel. I am going to be working with the owner of this shop using a wideband that monitors the exact AFR and add/subtract fuel wherever needed to try to attain the best possible "stoich" mixture. Hope that helps??? Maybe? I tried.

 

Everything is going as planned right now. Idle is perfect, although after about 5 minutes of idleing the RPM's start fluctuating. As if the car was about ready to die, but always it comes back up. This occurs every 10 seconds or so after that 5 minutes or so of idleing. I can tell the computer is still learning. Performance seems to be increase and I am starting to notice a good boost of power from a stop especially in first gear. I use the L-2-3 of my automatic every once in a while to hold it in first gear right up to redline because the power in first gear is AMAZING.

 

I installed the piggyback V2 on my automatic O.Z. about 400 miles ago and I have noticed a fairly decent increase in off the line torque and a huge difference in top end power. I was More than satisfied with my piggyback and I'm still running on the base map.

 

ya. I know what you are feeling mitsu. It is definately a good investment if nothing else just for plug and play. I am just going to be a guinea and see what the difference between base map and highly tuned map is.

 

i'd like to see long-term results of the re-tune. i'm running the base map with 93 gas right now, the person i bought it from recommended i run 93 to reduce knocks and whatnot. he was tuning his own lancer with an emanage so i trust his opinion.

 

I am leaving to go tune in 30 minutes! I can't wait

 

sweet. report back to us as soon as your done!

 

Ok just finished. The wideband was reading that the car was ~14AFR at idle, 11.7-12.0 at mid RPM's and lower 11's at high RPM's. We were able to squeeze out everything to get about a 12.8-13.3 over the whole powerband. Noticeable improvements in the upper RPM ranges. We both agreed about a 5-10 whp at high RPM's and about ~5 TQ throughout the powerband. We were working on the timing too (map B) but were unsure what EXACTLY it controlled. We had it on a +2 value which seemed to have a LITTLE more pickup to it and then changed it to a +7 which seemed to have a little less pickup. Therefore we weren't conclusively sure what in the timing we were changing. As soon as I find that out next week we might change that but those are fairly easy to change. Overall? Little more power to be gained, worth the $100 spent to tune it!

 

Oh, and on the scale on the fuel maps of 10 being neutral 9 subracting fuel etc. we set the 1500-2000 RPMS at an 8 initially and we were running (or should I say stalling) at about 16-17 AFR in that range. Eventually we ended up with about 9.7 at idle, ~9-9.6 through the mid RPM's and all the way down to 6's in the upper RPM ranges! All of that basically to get the AFR at around 13. Any questions just let me know