4G69 into 02-03
4G69 into 02-03
Lookin to try to swap 4G69 into the Cedia. I know its probably not cheap or maybe even possible, im just wondering what is actually different all the way down to the wiring.
Currently have a 02 Lancer OZ 5-speed with the RRM non ic.
picking up a 4G69 from a RA with 15k on it. Used and abused with snapped rod
.
Now i know ill need the ECU and some misc wiring from a RA and probably the tranny. What else would make this swap possible or easier?
And yes i know that this will not be cheap and it would probably be easier/cheaper to build the bottom end of my 4G94 or do a 64 swap (which i might end up doing in the end ) but that is not the issue here. Just wanna know what the differences are.
Currently have a 02 Lancer OZ 5-speed with the RRM non ic.
picking up a 4G69 from a RA with 15k on it. Used and abused with snapped rod
.Now i know ill need the ECU and some misc wiring from a RA and probably the tranny. What else would make this swap possible or easier?
And yes i know that this will not be cheap and it would probably be easier/cheaper to build the bottom end of my 4G94 or do a 64 swap (which i might end up doing in the end
) but that is not the issue here. Just wanna know what the differences are.
ECU
Wiring Harness
Tranny (or at least the bellhousing)
CV joints/axleshafts/intermidiary shaft, since the 4G69 uses an intermediary shaft
The accessories are different, too, such as the alternator, PS, and AC pumps. 4G69 only has 1 acc. belt instead of 2.
3 out of 4 of the engine/trans mounts are different, but bolt to the same holes on the body.
Header/DP are different. Not sure if you'll be able to keep the same catback, but probably not.
Throttle cable
Accel. pedal position sensor, since the 4G69 uses an electronic TB
Intake manifold
I honestly don't think it'd be that difficult of a swap, just an expensive parts list.
Wiring Harness
Tranny (or at least the bellhousing)
CV joints/axleshafts/intermidiary shaft, since the 4G69 uses an intermediary shaft
The accessories are different, too, such as the alternator, PS, and AC pumps. 4G69 only has 1 acc. belt instead of 2.
3 out of 4 of the engine/trans mounts are different, but bolt to the same holes on the body.
Header/DP are different. Not sure if you'll be able to keep the same catback, but probably not.
Throttle cable
Accel. pedal position sensor, since the 4G69 uses an electronic TB
Intake manifold
I honestly don't think it'd be that difficult of a swap, just an expensive parts list.
Last edited by otter; Oct 11, 2007 at 11:55 AM.
ECU
Wiring Harness
Tranny (or at least the bellhousing)
CV joints/axleshafts/intermidiary shaft, since the 4G69 uses an intermediary shaft
The accessories are different, too, such as the alternator, PS, and AC pumps. 4G69 only has 1 acc. belt instead of 2.
3 out of 4 of the engine/trans mounts are different, but bolt to the same holes on the body.
Header/DP are different. Not sure if you'll be able to keep the same catback, but probably not.
Throttle cable
Accel. pedal position sensor, since the 4G69 uses an electronic TB
Intake manifold
I honestly don't think it'd be that difficult of a swap, just an expensive parts list.
Wiring Harness
Tranny (or at least the bellhousing)
CV joints/axleshafts/intermidiary shaft, since the 4G69 uses an intermediary shaft
The accessories are different, too, such as the alternator, PS, and AC pumps. 4G69 only has 1 acc. belt instead of 2.
3 out of 4 of the engine/trans mounts are different, but bolt to the same holes on the body.
Header/DP are different. Not sure if you'll be able to keep the same catback, but probably not.
Throttle cable
Accel. pedal position sensor, since the 4G69 uses an electronic TB
Intake manifold
I honestly don't think it'd be that difficult of a swap, just an expensive parts list.
Thanx
Having recently completed an engine swap to convert my UK 1.6 Lancer to the 2.4 MIVEC motor, I thought I'd compile this rough guide just encase anyone blows their motor and wants to go this route.
What I must stress however, is that it is NOT worth doing this swap to a perfectly good ES or OZ Rally, you might as well just trade in for a RA. I did not have that choice as the 2.4 is not available in Europe or anywhere except the USA, Canada, Australia and a few other far-off locations from the UK!
So heres my thoughts and a rough guide.
Summary
The previous engine was a 4G18, 96Bhp 1.6L powerplant, using a return-type fuel system.
The RA engine is 4G69, 162Bhp 2.4L powerplant with MIVEC, using a returnless-type fuel system.
How difficult was it?
Contrary to popular fanboy belief - it is very easy to swap to the 4G69, as everything bolts up, fits, and no custom work is required. It does however take a lot of money and time.
It is VITAL you make sure you have all the correct parts. It is not as simple as changing the engine. You need the new axles, the new transaxle, new wiring harness, ECM, tubes, fuel pump, and much more.
What did we anticipate would work but didnt?
We anticipated that we could re-used the transmission - we couldnt - it was subtly different. Short story - you need the RA transmission, changing just the clutch housing wont work.
We thought then after getting the new transaxle that we could re-use the old axles - WRONG! The RA axles are thicker, and old thinner axles wont turn in the RA differential.
What did work suprisingly?
The wiring harness for the engine connected up really well for the most part. On my car there was one particular plug C-124, that needed a few changes, but this may not be the case on a USDM lancer.
The engine started up without any major problems.
What parts did we need?
4G69 engine (doesnt matter if it is from AT or MT, but if it is from an Auto like mine was youll need a flywheel and clutch. Also make sure it has everything left on it, like the starter etc)
4G69 transaxle
4G69 drive axles
4G69 ancillaries if not on engine (ps pump, ac compressor, alternator)
ECM
Engine Wiring Harness
Exhaust
Fuel Pump
How do you do it?
In very simple steps:
1). Drain your fluids
2). Disconnect all wiring and hoses
3). Remove as much as you can from the engine to aid hoisting, such as the exhaust manifold.
4). Remove the engine. For this there are two options, either unbolt the transmission/clutch housing from the block and then take out just the engine, or you can drop the whole lot down if you can raise the car on a lift.
5). Remove the engine wiring harness and ECM
6). Prepare the car for the new engine, such as installing the new engine wiring harness and ECM. We also changed the clutch master cylinder but this is not necessary.
7). We put the new engine in with the transmission attached. This is difficult from the top so its better to drop the car onto it. If you remove all the brackets from the engine and get the header off of it, it will go in from the top.
8). Put in the new axles, then fill your fluids.
10). Check everything over, but it should be ready to roll now.
What I must stress however, is that it is NOT worth doing this swap to a perfectly good ES or OZ Rally, you might as well just trade in for a RA. I did not have that choice as the 2.4 is not available in Europe or anywhere except the USA, Canada, Australia and a few other far-off locations from the UK!
So heres my thoughts and a rough guide.
Summary
The previous engine was a 4G18, 96Bhp 1.6L powerplant, using a return-type fuel system.
The RA engine is 4G69, 162Bhp 2.4L powerplant with MIVEC, using a returnless-type fuel system.
How difficult was it?
Contrary to popular fanboy belief - it is very easy to swap to the 4G69, as everything bolts up, fits, and no custom work is required. It does however take a lot of money and time.
It is VITAL you make sure you have all the correct parts. It is not as simple as changing the engine. You need the new axles, the new transaxle, new wiring harness, ECM, tubes, fuel pump, and much more.
What did we anticipate would work but didnt?
We anticipated that we could re-used the transmission - we couldnt - it was subtly different. Short story - you need the RA transmission, changing just the clutch housing wont work.
We thought then after getting the new transaxle that we could re-use the old axles - WRONG! The RA axles are thicker, and old thinner axles wont turn in the RA differential.
What did work suprisingly?
The wiring harness for the engine connected up really well for the most part. On my car there was one particular plug C-124, that needed a few changes, but this may not be the case on a USDM lancer.
The engine started up without any major problems.
What parts did we need?
4G69 engine (doesnt matter if it is from AT or MT, but if it is from an Auto like mine was youll need a flywheel and clutch. Also make sure it has everything left on it, like the starter etc)
4G69 transaxle
4G69 drive axles
4G69 ancillaries if not on engine (ps pump, ac compressor, alternator)
ECM
Engine Wiring Harness
Exhaust
Fuel Pump
How do you do it?
In very simple steps:
1). Drain your fluids
2). Disconnect all wiring and hoses
3). Remove as much as you can from the engine to aid hoisting, such as the exhaust manifold.
4). Remove the engine. For this there are two options, either unbolt the transmission/clutch housing from the block and then take out just the engine, or you can drop the whole lot down if you can raise the car on a lift.
5). Remove the engine wiring harness and ECM
6). Prepare the car for the new engine, such as installing the new engine wiring harness and ECM. We also changed the clutch master cylinder but this is not necessary.
7). We put the new engine in with the transmission attached. This is difficult from the top so its better to drop the car onto it. If you remove all the brackets from the engine and get the header off of it, it will go in from the top.
8). Put in the new axles, then fill your fluids.
10). Check everything over, but it should be ready to roll now.
Dang it. So there is alot of crap that i still need to even make this viable. Im lookin at a 4G69 for cheap but there is no drivetrain or electronics or mounts included.
Anyone have a wrecked RA out there?
Last edited by iyi0521; Oct 12, 2007 at 10:20 AM.
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From: TB, FL
I understand why Diavlo did his swap.
If one is living in the US, why do it. Might as buy a RA first (RA is nowhere near expensive as an EVO) . . . I hear the "xyz year has an ugly front bumper for the RA", ba humbug, it's much more cost effective to buy another bumper.
If one is living in the US, why do it. Might as buy a RA first (RA is nowhere near expensive as an EVO) . . . I hear the "xyz year has an ugly front bumper for the RA", ba humbug, it's much more cost effective to buy another bumper.
