the installation is pretty simple, but very intricate. the space is limited to where you have to work. i was sweating bullets when i got done. other than that make sure you look at the ecu wire harness so the wires are facing you, coming out at you and not the other way around. took me awhile to figure that out. other than that this mod is really worth the money and time. one question though for all of you who have it installed, i put the 'T' on the line that extends from the throttle body all the way past the intake manifold. is that the right line to tap into? and how did you guys connect the air line from the engine bay to the actual piggyback? there was no connector in my kit so i used a empty pen cartridge and electrical tape.

 

ok ive got a question.... what happens if i get stranded somewhere and ive gotta run the lower octane in my tank...will the piggy cause spontanious explosions? Or what.

 

i heard someone here that used 89 on thier piggy and worked fine

 

According to Rob at Road///Race, you can run 89, just try not to go punching it or you might get predetonation. Avoid 87 if at all possible though.

 

so if i am stuck in the middle of nowhere and i need to get home i can put 87 in and it will run and not distroy my car.... Thats awesom.

 

It will run but if you floor it you may have a problem. If this situation comes up you will need to be very very easy on the car and keep OFF the gas. You could also splice the wire that is cut(one that purple/green piggy wires hook too) back together. This will fault out the piggy and allow the stock ecu to run unchanged.

 

Also i don't think it is in the instructions but after installing a lot of these i've found it easier to take out the three bolts holding the ecu in place and drop it down/out. From there you have a lot of room to splice and T in your connections. Then i put the ecu back into place and mount the piggy. Takes me about 15 minutes to do an install without soldering and about 20 to do with soldering.

 

This is what I did when I went up to Canada and accidentally went to a full service station, and they guy filled me up with 87. I didn't want to take a chance of predetonation/knocking.

The Piggy is worth every penny, especially now that all the kinks have been worked out (which you can read about in the piggy threads). It's a much better investment than a CAI ($200) or exhaust ($400+ for cat-back). This gives you more bang for the buck and bypasses the crappy fuel mapping.

 

Lol well I got rid of the raspy sound, feel like a total dumbass! Took my car into my muffler guy and turned out I had a leak where the header meets the downpipe. I had left out one bolt when i installed it. Not the two that merge the flanges of the header and down pipe together, the other that holds it in place. Yeah anyway, they threw a gasket on and put a bolt where I was too lazy to. And now, holy crap, it feels sooo much better. On a lighter note, I think im convinced. I went ahead and ordered the piggyback straight from RRM, itll be in next week with luck. Thanks all


Mike

 

 

So basically, you could put a switch on that wire and switch back and forth from piggy to stock ecu???

 

Yeah i covered this with a few guys... you'll need a DPDT switch and the knowledge to wire it correctly. Simple and easy for some but for other...

What i don't understand is that people can do cheaper gas but just not race or speed in the car. Basically keep the throttle off the floor! All in all the car gets great gas mileage with the piggy as long as you stay off the gas. The higher octane is only a buck or 2 more per tank. Most waste that on junk food during the day.

 

well i basically have 0 knowledge of the diff between 87 89 and 91 except octane, but if octane is lower im thinkin why would it cause a problem??? im rly new to this whole piggy stuff....

 

Lower octane burns quicker, less controlled, and at a lower temperature. In a regular car, this is ok because the tolerances are set pretty wide. When you get a piggy or something like it, you're changing the fuel map to require a more precise burn. That's about as in depth as I can go, but I recall reading an excellent write-up on predetonation by Boe.

 

To me the pb was worth the money. My only gripe is maybe some more could have been done with first and second. Seems as though it is set up for third gear dyno pulls. From third on it is really noticeable. I say buy it.