HELP!!! I have tried everything above and these damn things won't come off!!! Why !?!?! Does anyone know a little trick that is not mentioned? The only technique above that I have not tried yet is using PB blaster, because I cannot find any. Please, someone, help me out! I am currently just letting the penetrating oil work it's way in while occasionally tapping with a hammer.

 

Perhaps an impact wrench - just be careful not to strip the bolts.

 

you can get pb blaster from like autozone or napa...most auto parts stores carry it....just look for the yellow topped can

 

Yah, sounds familar. Had a great fun time puttin on my girlfriend's exhaust. Car was only as high as jackstands and I was under for hours. Used an electric impact wrench and stripped the bolts between the rear section and midpipe. Actually broke her dad's breaker bar trying to get the bolts off between the cat and midpipe. Finally got off the 2 cat bolts and cut the exhaust in half to get out the rear section. Damn was it worth it tho to see and hear that Apexi N1 on there. Keep up the hard work tho. (heating and pb blaster didn't work for me and the car is only a 99)

 

couldn't you just use a nut splitter from sears?

 

Hehehe...you said nut splitter.

 

yeah it clamps on and it twists till it splits the nut, just like my ex gf, lol

 

clamps and splits the nuts... u so crazy!

 

i do this often in our shop on late model vehicle. i would usually use air impact wrench or heat it with oxyacetylene (as long it's far away from the gas tank).We've never use WD-40 to loosen bolts cuz it contains silicone which can damage the finish. But try using an impact wrench and if you damage the bolts, just get a new one.hehehe.

 

ok, found and used pb blaster and it cleaned a lot of rust away, but the bolts are still stuck. so I put a third coat of pb blaster on and am going to let it sit longer. I hope this works.... please let it work!!

 

I gots this stuff called Kroil.. you put it on a rusted bolt, then let it sit for about 10mins. It seeps its way down into the rusted threads and then usually it will break free. Apply steady hard pressure when trying to break it free. Don't bounce on it, because most likely it causes the threads to strip. If that doesn't work, bang on the nut with a hammer, then try to break it free again. If the Kroil doesn't work, then heat it up with a torch and it should come off then. If that doesn't work then resort to drilling it out. In Michigan we have salt they put down on the roads and it makes things pretty much fuse together. My bolts were a biatch to get off. I just installed my header and it was pretty tough to break the lower bolts free which held it to the downpipe.

 

it was a pain in the but for me too, i've had my test pipe for almost a year now and i still haven't put it on. but i have my inspection and emmisions testing coming up in a month so i'm gonna wait til after that and put it on.

 

You want to know how I did it? I used a hydraulic jack to push up on my socket wrench. Crude and scary, yes, but it worked. The bolts were rusted as all hell. The threads are rusted on the section where the dp flange was (no threads in the support, only the cat), as a result I can't tighten them enough with my new dp which has a thinner flange. I need to go to the store. Anyone know what size these bolts are?

 

ok, yeah...I just had a big schpeel taking off my greddy exhaust...just take it to a shop and get them to torch it...it will cost you like 35 bucks...then you can just put new bolts in...(get nice bolts this time...) you'll need one more bolt for the replacement than you will probably need for the new cat back though...but that's not a big deal...just don't be a hero, it's like rock paper scissors...rust beats man.

 

make sure u use locktite on the new bolt thread so that way even if they get really rusty, u wont break them when u want to loosen the bolts.