RRM/Carbontrix Universal CF Splitter
here are 2 pics. No braces in the front, because it's braced in the back (braced to the tranny skid plate) so the whole thing points down a couple degrees.
no to the production. A little imagination is all you need to do one
no to the production. A little imagination is all you need to do one
Last edited by engineerboy; Aug 24, 2004 at 06:25 PM.
that looks great engineerboy, looks a lot better on your car than the tiburon, doesnt look like it sticks out as much, howd you make it?
Last edited by pgmike; Aug 25, 2004 at 05:49 AM.
What do you mean by "does look like it sticks out as much"? That's the point. In fact, the next generation will stick out about another inch farther. If it stuck out any less, it would just make the lip a little lower and wouldn't work at all.
Here's the quick and dirty:
Take all the plastic baffling out from under the car. That includes the stuff that hangs down. Everyting except the plastic wheel well inserts
Take a sheet of plywood (1/4" or so) and place it under the car. You'll have to cut out spaces for the tranny skidplate and the tow hook. Now trace the front lip onto the wood. Take a compass (the pencil-and-pointy end kind) and trace a line away from the lip outline.... you make it so it looks good to you. now cut this out. Voila- wood splitter.
I then filled it in with bondo (next time will be fibreglass, just because I've never used it before) sanded, primed, painted and sealed.
It's held in place with "U" clips. They're in the specialty fasteners section of a Lowes or other home store. They'll clip onto your lip and they have a threaded nipple. I always have the nipple down. Mark the locations of you clips, drill holes and then bolt the splitter to the lip. For the rear, I made a couple of brackets that hang onto the skidplate and hold the rear of the splitter up. If you just make the lip (no bellypan) you'll want to use braces to push the front of the lip down a little.
That's it, really. From here it's just trial and error. I may have missed some stuff. My first one can be found if you search for "Homegrown splitter"
Here's the quick and dirty:
Take all the plastic baffling out from under the car. That includes the stuff that hangs down. Everyting except the plastic wheel well inserts
Take a sheet of plywood (1/4" or so) and place it under the car. You'll have to cut out spaces for the tranny skidplate and the tow hook. Now trace the front lip onto the wood. Take a compass (the pencil-and-pointy end kind) and trace a line away from the lip outline.... you make it so it looks good to you. now cut this out. Voila- wood splitter.
I then filled it in with bondo (next time will be fibreglass, just because I've never used it before) sanded, primed, painted and sealed.
It's held in place with "U" clips. They're in the specialty fasteners section of a Lowes or other home store. They'll clip onto your lip and they have a threaded nipple. I always have the nipple down. Mark the locations of you clips, drill holes and then bolt the splitter to the lip. For the rear, I made a couple of brackets that hang onto the skidplate and hold the rear of the splitter up. If you just make the lip (no bellypan) you'll want to use braces to push the front of the lip down a little.
That's it, really. From here it's just trial and error. I may have missed some stuff. My first one can be found if you search for "Homegrown splitter"
how much does your splitter weigh engineer? Seems like 1/4 plywood would be a little too thick to me, but if it works, thats awesome! Any chance you can post up pics of it from the underside?
Also, off topic, do you drive with your license plate like that? Seems like that would add more drag...
Also, off topic, do you drive with your license plate like that? Seems like that would add more drag...
it's heavier than pure CF..... and it's comments like that that will forever keep me out of the parts fab biz. Who cares how much it weighs? If you're THAT concerned about it, you'd have a team of engineers design the optimal weight, dimensions, angle, mounting etc... and it'll cost you a lot more than even the $200 RRM would charge you. Again, mine is just one example. You use the materials that you're familiar with and are available. If I didn't paint or bondo the splitter, they'd be $7 each (at $15 for a sheet of plywood). WIth bondo and paint, they're maybe $20 and about 6 hours of labor.
Yes, I do drive with my plate like that. Moving the plate allows for more air to enter the radiator and having it higher keeps the bottom of the plate from scratching the fender. The frame (which hung over the edge of the fender) would still slide up onto the fender and the scratches were worse because of it. It's not a concern.... see above about teams of engineers....
Yes, I do drive with my plate like that. Moving the plate allows for more air to enter the radiator and having it higher keeps the bottom of the plate from scratching the fender. The frame (which hung over the edge of the fender) would still slide up onto the fender and the scratches were worse because of it. It's not a concern.... see above about teams of engineers....
ok look at what i found, same pic as rrm's. i dont know if rrm doesnt realyl make there splitter and if they get it from otehrs or if this ebay vendor stole this pic from them, eitehr way the price is much better. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW
You can make a splitter out of anything. for a full Race car there is an optimal size and shape relative to the nose of the car. The universal splitter we sell can be trimmed to whatever desired shape you want. The trick is to find one that looks good, functional , and won't get ripped off the first driveway you go down. We actually made a different one for drag lancer around 4:00 am before HIN San Diego. Came out pretty good considering. Reagrdless. Cf is what people like but the painted one looks pretty good too.
ROAD/RACE
ROAD/RACE
