Alright i got bored one day and decided to give this a shot. This is what you need to get started.

1. Thick gauge Power wire. ( paid about 15$ for mine its a 6 gauge)
Make sure its atleast 8 gauge cause i had 12g to start with and the car would have a hard time turning over.
2. Ground wire, i got mine at walmart for about 3$ its 8 gauge and 4 ft long, it came with connectors
3. Copper connectors. ( For your power cable, came in a pack of 2, and cost about 1$
4. Bolt (for your ground wire in the trunk) I forgot the size sorry
5. Wrench to take off your battery

First start out by taking the batterys positive and negative terminals off and taking the battery and tray completely out of the trunk. Try to find a good place to ground the existing ground cable and find a good spot for the power cable to attach to, i used the mount for my fujita intakes support arm. And used the nut to bolt it down, along with the 6 gauge power wire bolted to the same mount with it. U then find the rubber plug i the fire wall and make a hole in it to run the power wire thru, u then run the power wire under the carpet and under the rear seats,(which you have to remove) to the trunk. the battery tray can be reused and installed to the trunk with minor modifications, you have to drill a hole in the trunk to reuse your battery holders. After that make sure everything is hooked up and your install is good to go and crank it up and go for a ride.

 

stupid question probably, but whats the benefit?

 

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/me...11772-490.html

 

It benefits by taking that 30 lb battery weight up front and moving it to the back to even out the ride a little better, also by doing this if you have a fujita SRI you can now move the filter away from the hot exhaust manifold, i did a before and after and the intake temps dropped greatly by doing the battery relocation and intake move.

 

i see. just bought a car with the relocation done to it, but it just seems like a pain.

 

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/me...ke-moving.html

 

Its not a pain to me really i dont even use the trunk and i just made sure i used a 100amp fuse so i wouldnt have to worry about blowing fuses. Moving your intake and battery combined i think is a good, cheap mod.

 

Thanks for the instructions. I was planning on doing something similar a long time ago but I never got an intake.

 

No problem master AK, sorry i only had two pics of the install but i tried to word it the best way possible. I think its a great cheap mod to do, and you benefit both ways when you do it.

 

looks good man really does.

 

haha wow, not trying to bash you, but.......6 gauge main battery wire, are you serious??? that wire carries nowhere near the required amount of amperage to effectively charge any battery, especially ours, and with all these new electronics on new cars like this, 6 gauge should be considered obsolete when it comes to a MAIN battery wire. you need at LEAST 2 gauge wire for the main battery line and at LEAST a 200 amp fuse! (ANL type fuse recommended for this high of amperage) as for the ground....on ANYTHING ELECTRONIC being grounded, the ground wire should be at LEAST the same size as the positive wire, if not BIGGER!

My suggestion, upgrade to 2 gauge power wire and at least 2 gauge ground wire. Any Autozone will have 2 gauge battery wire sold by the foot. Yeah, it will cost more, but it is WELL worth it, and SAFER! When I relocated my battery, the schematic looked like this:



so pretty much, the battery and alternator were "feeding" the car's main fused connection

and I just realized.....its definitely not safe to hold your power wire in place, by using a bolt that is grounded to the car...

 

I got my gauge sizes wrong i have a 4 gauge power wire and a 6 gauge ground. And its funny that you say that cause its been on the car like that for so long now with NO problems and the voltage is fine, reading alot better than stock so i must have done something right.

 

i did it a more simple way, i used existing bolts and connectors. I Used the original ground wire, along with the positive connector, i used 4 gauge for the main power line, I tied it into the original fuse box on the terminal and ran it straight to my trunk, grounded connected everything, it was really quite simple took a matter of 30 min.

 

You got a pic i want to see what it looks like

 

sorry it took so long