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Unscrew these two screws holding the knob controls to the face plate.

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With your fingers in the holes, pull out with even pressure to remove the face plate.

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Unscrew these 4 screws, holding in the light guide and the Defogger/AC/Recirc buttons.

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Removing the light guide and buttons should give you clear access to the two bulbs you need to change.

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Now for a more tedious task, getting at the clock. First, remove these two screws holding the vent panel in.

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Now you'll understand why the gauge cluster had to be loose. Starting from the left, begin to pry the vent panel up and outward. Don't worry if little white clips start flying everywhere, you can re-attach them back later.

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It's a little scary to look at, but here's what you end up with. Disconnect the two cables for the clock and hazard lights.

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Now you have access to the clock piece. Four tabs, two at the top and two at the bottom hold the clock in. Gently undo these to release the LCD.

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The red clock mod requires two piece of coloured filter. The first one I taped directly onto the LCD.

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The second piece which deepens the colour even more is just dropped in to the clock housing. Without this piece, the clock turns orange. Yuck.

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At this point, your dash looks pretty messed up. Let's hope you remembered where all the screws are and can put it back together.

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So you want to take this one step further? Undo the clear part of the gauge cluster. There are two clips holding it in at the top, gently push down to release the face.

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More clips at the top and bottom hold the black plastic face in. I guess at this point you could remove it for a paint job also.

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Now that the gauges are exposed, gently pry out the needles, remove the gauges, and replace the two bulbs shown. I didn't finish this part, because I left mine the stock colour.

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If you've paid attention, now is the time to reverse all the removal and unscrewing, and get your dash back to normal. For the climate controls, if you've done everything correctly, the light guide should look like this: