Hey guys I have been stuffing around for close to 5 hours on trying to get a 4 gauge power cable from the battery to the boot and I am really feel quite useless here there only seems to be 2 ways to get power here one is on your drivers side or my passenger side were there is the only gromet but I can't seem to see were it comes out inside the car due to the air con filter is the other one is thru the quarter panel and engine bay and then trying to thread it thru the car door/car rubber gromet that the poer window cables run and both are very very difficult to do has anyone got any ideas

 

I fit a 4 gauge power cable through the driver's side rubber boot. The only advice I can give you is to find a drill bit that's about 3 sizes bigger than the cable and drill through the rubber.

 

there should be a rubber boot that connects the engine bay to the cab. Look down below the passenger side of the dash board, there should be a rubber boot that is just above the where the carpet ends on the floor. I fit 4 gauge wire through there, Try using some a pair of scissiors to cut a hole in the rubber.

 

Thanks for that this is exactly what I did minus the drill bit as it is just way too tight to get in there I managed to remove the boot/gromet and use a very sharp knife sliced a X in there and cable tied the cable to it and threaded it thru.... hard work but got it done again thanks for the advice

YelloRalli: my car model seems to be void of this gromet in the firewall there is just so much stuff in the engine bay I did see something but access was not an option and it also appeared to be a hard plastic one...

But again thanks very much for the fast response it only ended up taking 7 hours for a damn power cable... and I still have 3 sets of input-output cables plus a trigger wire for the subs, wires for the front speakers to the rear... well at least these will be very straight forward then we will call it a night

 

That's what I did with mine, too.

 

chowetime - Took me AGES to get through the thiiick grommet with 4 guage. I used a few different sized screwdrivers to poke a hole, then used a good old coathanger to pull the 4g through Didnt take anywhere near 7h, but more like an hour of stuffing around and swearing. lol . Laying RCA's / remote wires was very easy .... the lancer interior is sooo simple to rip apart! Im currently in the middle of fitting 6.75" mids to the front doors - ive used 18mm spacers, and the magnet cleared the window by 1-2mm hehe... still trying to figure out tweeter placement though as i dont want to hack up the a pillars, and i dont think theres enough room to mount tweeters on the back of the side mirror cover... its a bit hard with the way its a cover over another cover (u'll know what i mean if u take it out).

Are you amping the stock speakers, or using aftermarket front ./ rear speakers? What size sub are you using? Hope ure not weighing down that turbo car of yours too much! :P

Another question i have for you, where did u run the power cable through the engine bay?? Any chance of pictures? Mine is a bit dodgy at the moment, and im thinking of making a fuse holder that goes onto the battery mount to neaten it up a bit.


PS. Im in Victoria, AUstralia... and mine's an AUDM ES Wagon ... pretty much the same as yours until the back seats :P

 

I suppose I was being very stubborn thats why it took me so long I wanted it to go thru the rubber grommet that has all of the power window cables etc just for a nice neat finish and then I finally gave up and went thru the passenger side front quarter panel just near the indicators but I fed the wire in the black plastic flexi stuff just for that extra hidden and protection but once I ddecided on that it took maybe 30 minutes to get it done..

To run the power I went from the engine down the side and stayed on that side all the way thru it is going to be connected to a power box? (split or share the power with amps) I will definately be having a fuse box on the car battery far safer to do it this way

I have Alpine type R splits for the front 61/2" I think I put these in a fair while ago when I got the door skins retrimmed. I placed the tweeter on the mirror cover it is not a flush fit but it still looks very nice not too visiable - I am keeping with Alpine R's except for the sub which will be a type X and still trying to decide if I go the 10" or 12" I think 10 will be plenty as for amp picked up the new PDX 4 channel for the main speakers and will maybe look at the PDX as well for the sub just depends but whatever I do it will be a easy to remove subs but even then they will be placed between rear wheels to help keep it balance and I am making it out of fiberglass rather than MDF
here is a pic of tweeter placement

 

looks good

 

IM not seeing a tweeeeter in that pic ? :|

Ive drilled a hole in the same plastic part, and am mounting my tweeters there also ..... vie got oldish earthquake crossovers and tweeters (but soudns very good), along with big 6.5" subs for the doors.

 

sorry I could not find one so instead of deleting the whole thing I just quickly put up were it went but I just found a reasonable pic sorry it does not look 100% due to lack of door skins etc...

 

Very similar setup to mine ... Thanks heaps!

 

not a problem... sorry about the delay

 

I was able to mount my tweeters to the stock bracket. Was very quick and easy. remove pillar, un-plug stock tweeter, unbolt from chassis, remove small screw in the back of the tweeter, and bolt new one in its place. Very quick install.

 

Our cars in Australia in teh base models dont have tweeters as standard

 

For the left-hand-drive cars, there should be a big grommet by the clutch pedal where you can run a pretty big wire through without much trouble. You can access the outside of the grommet by removing the plastic fender liner. The red wire is my power wire, 8AWG if I remember correctly. Plenty of room for a larger wire.