Lancer Engine Damper
 

https://www.prostreetonline.com/proj...er/small_1.jpg

Weapon R has released an awesome new product for the true enthusiast! These dampers hold down your motor and prevent it from rocking during launch and competition use. We tried one in our Project EVO 8 and love it!

One of the things that impressed us the most about the Weapon R Engine Damper is that the shifting improved remarkably. Shifting into gear during all conditions was much much smoother, and quicker. We attribute this to the fact that the damper holds the engine firmer, so the shift linkage doesn't move, and thus allows the car to shift smooth.

Click here to order - $116.99

Click here for install instructions

Always in stock! {thumbup} Weapon R says it will work on the regular Lancers as well!

https://www.prostreetonline.com/pso/...59-111-101.jpg

Just curious, but is this going to help more than hurt a FWD car? The engine is going to xfer the weight towards the back of the car, so bracing it foward is a great idea, such that it keeps the weight on the front wheels and gives traction. But, using an unballanced brace that attaches directly to one (and only one) of the struts is going to push that strut up and back. Also, it looks like its forcing at slightly upward angle. Wont this cause some wheel lift and pivot, making us loose traction in just one wheel and cause a zig-zaggy launch?

im no suspension expert. just curious before I throw another $100-something into handling =)

I think where it connects to the strut housing is stable enough, but I would think it'd be better for everything to dampen the engine equally at both ends (either dual dampeners, or better mounts). Also, have they actually tested this on the Ralliart? I get skeptical when something claims to fit *all* of the Lancers, base level through Evos.

its mounting on the cam gear casing, right? any place on the right side where it could mount? in the RA, they could also make it center-mount to the middle of the struct bar. Pushing up the struts would still be an issue, tho.

I put an order in, will let you guys know how it goes.....

It does not mount to the CAM casing.....it mounts to the lower engine mount. Click the link on how to install it. Seems like a sturdy mounting point. I'm curious on how it works....

I've seen these used on RSX's. They're adjustable in the amount of dampening....also, I've never heard a complaint about these (the company that makes them for the rsx is Ingalls).

People also had said that this eliminated alot of wheel hop.

This type of an engine mount is sometimes referred to as a "bobble strut" They are responsible for damping the movement of an engine inside the engine bay. For those worried about weight xfer, this would actually help you - it keeps the engine from rocking its weight around around inside the bay over top of the front wheels which is where your power is coming from. It GREATLY decreases wheel hop when you launch hard off of the line, keeping your power down on the gound instead of bouncing around in the air. Between one of these and some filled/stiff motor mounts, it makes for a much smoother power delivery, especially off the line. And if all you do is replace the strut, it doesn't even add much vibration to the cabin while still keeping the engine-rock at bay.

SO, your saying that this is better that getting filled engine mounts? I was going to get the filled mounts, but then I saw this. This seems like an easier solution as far as install goes. But, is it comparable to the filled mounts?

it's not as effective by itself as a set of filled mounts, but doesn't transfer as much vibration to the cabin either. IMO filled mounts are worth it, they are quite effective at eliminating wheel-hop and since I actually like to feel my engine running, the vibration doesn't bother me either. It's not that bad, especially since the 4g69 has balance shafts - my motor does not.

I just think the torque dampener is more worth the money. To do the mounts would be a royal pain. The TD you can do your self in your driveway in about an hour at most.

doing mounts aren't that hard either. Get a jack under the motor (with a wood block on it so you don't jack up your oil pan) and hold it in place as you replace the mounts. The only difficult one should be the transaxle side, and it's the front one that matters the most anyway.

there is a howto on fulling the mounts on the OZ somewhere on here. I bought the filling compound, but havnt been able to spot the mounts, yet. I may consider this mod once I get the mounts done, since I already have the stuff =]

I've heard if you do the mounts the vibration through the car is horrible and can be very annoying. Hopefully this damper doesn't cause to much vibration.

BLK-MAJIK: what did you buy to fill the mounts?