so I can't shift my tranny. Trans was rebuilt 5k ago.... issue is new. Has had no problems since.

slave was replaced as was the clutch when tranny was rebuilt 5k ago

I can't get the clutch disengaged. basically stuck in gear right now

there is no pedal pressure, like the pedal isn't even there...

If the car is off, I can put it in gear, then when I start it, it will go forward on the starter before it will eventually start working. I have to turn the car off to stop, even with the pedal to the floor, and force it out of gear

Am I correct that I should replace my clutch master cylinder? If I am, any good brands beside OE?


EDIT: going to try and bleed the slave tomorrow, and adjust the pedal travel and see if it helps....

if not, do you guys think it is the master or slave? really hoping it is the master.....

there are no leaks that I can see, but will look a little more in the morning

also found out the master for the ES is the same as the EVO part number MR491945

 

if you have zero pressure, there's going to be a leak somewhere...should be fairly easy to spot, if it's the slave it'll leak out the bottom of the bell housing. I once drove 2.5 hours home without using the clutch...you just have to rev match every shift, up or down...anyway, when you replace the slave, was it OEM or the part store special? also is it a stock clutch, or are you using a stronger pressure plate?

 

there are no leaks...

pressure is intermittent --- sometimes it is just fine, sometimes there is nothing

slave is is centric brand. this does not feel like a slave issue, as I had a defective slave in the beginning, that leaked fluid

clutch is exedy

I know all about match shifiting, but in traffic, that doesn't cut it. I need this to work....


I am heading outside right now to bleed the system again, and look for leaks, will also be adjusting or at least looking at the pedal height

it almost feels like I just don't have enough throw on the pedal - but then again, it seems intermittent

 

just got in from outside..... bled the slave with my vacuum sucker.... pedal is back

there are definitely no leaks at the bottom of the bell housing, I checked extra carefully since I knew where it would leak, as I have had the first slave blow

checked the master and also brake master and lines for leaks, and nothing.... I will continue to monitor it -- and see if it does it again, or doesn't

I tried to adjust the pedal height, but I can't access that thing to save my life

 

you just take the clevis pin out where it connects to the pedal arm, and turn the "fork" on the master cylinder pushrod...you need I think a 10mm wrench and a pair of needle nose iirc, cause there's a jam nut of the pushrod. you need to measure all your dimensions before you do anything, it may very well be within spec, and thus a hydraulic problem...if there's no leak, then it's possible air was introduced into the system somehow...

 

There are definitely no leaks

I tried to loosen the nut on the backside, I can't get my hands up in there to do anything... so I left it alone

I am wondering if the heat is causing trapped air bubbles to finally work themselves up?

All the time that it took to replace my trans (like a month) the line was open and just held up -- the cap was also off the reservoir at this time, so it is possible, my fluid sucked moisture out of the air... it definitely isn't the same color as new fluid out of a fresh bottle

 

thee fluid it's likely contaminated, or just worn out and old. You would be wise to flush the whole system...and since they share a reservoir, I would do the brakes too...I flush my brakes and clutch probably every 2 years, if not each season...but I normally spend a lot of time on the track. this year I did not...this is a maintenance catch-up year, since it's my DD I don't have the winter to do everything at once...anyway, top up the res with clean fluid, and bleed the clutch normally, don't bother with the vacuum sucker or whatever...see if the pedal feel improves, and then I would go ahead and flush your system.

 

the vacuum sucker is how I bleed the clutch by myself at the slave

It is very weird... sometimes it sucks, sometimes it's fine.... usually seems to have more problems when it is warm out

 

so it almost feels like I am short throw on the pedal when I push it down.... doesn't happen all the time.... but if I push it down, and wiggle my foot, it usually goes in without fuss.... sometimes though, it's like I have no clutch at all

almost like the clutch pedal isn't allowing enough fluid back in after I let my foot off

 

fluid doesn't enter or exit the system...as you push the master cylinder pushrod, the slave cylinder pushes the release bearing against the pressure plate springs...the pressure plate springs push back on the slave when you release the pedal, and the fluid is moved back into the master...it sounds like you have air in the system...and if you can even release the clutch a little bit, it will drag, and wear out your clutch disc faster, as well as your synchros...

 

so looking @ the oem exploded view in the FSM, it looks like there is a spring on the piston itself


it's really random as to when it does it... some days it is fine, some days it sucks.....

I haven't smelled any burning clutch, and there are no leaks present -- not from any line, the master, the brake fluid reservoir, or the bottom of the tranny bell housing. Really stumped at this point

 

did you flush the clutch control system? sounds like a fluid issue.

 

what do you mean by flushing it?

I have bled it at the slave, and put new fluid in it, but I can and will go further

 

by flushing, I mean emptying the reservoir, and refilling with new fluid, and bleeding the clutch until you are 100% certain, the system only contains the new fluid...when you are bleeding, you are NOT pumping the pedal, correct?

 

I can start running more fluid through it... it is going to mix with the brake fluid though.....

I bleed it by myself with a vacuum pump @ 20"


EDIT:

ok, so I want to get a Motive power bleeder, it will push new fluid through the system..... What part number is the correct one that I need to get?