2006 Lancer Es Manual Trans. 113k on motor, no aftermarket parts.

Car has been running fine until the other day. I backed out of my driveway and it just died. as if I ran out of fuel but the tank is almost full. Pushed it into the driveway and tried to start it again and nothing. The car does try to kick over it just acts like it has no fuel. So I checked the see if the pump was bad it seems to be working fine it kicks on and I can hear it working normally. So I checked all the relays and fuses everything is fine. So I hooked up my reader and I got 3 codes.
PO340 Cam Position sensor A bank 1 CKT
PO335 Crankshaft position sensor A
PO113 IAT sensor 1 CKT.

Has anyone got these before? I dont want to tear it all down and replace every sensor to figure out the issue. Any help or tests I could do? anyone help would be greatly appreciated. I pulled the MAF off and cleaned it and checked it and it seems fine so I'm not sure why it threw the IAT sensor code. Maybe someone lives near Ogden Utah with the same car and wants to let me try out their MAF lol? Thanks so much again for any help you guys can provide

 

Timing belt still attached to the engine?

 

Try pulling the cam position sensor as well, it is really easy to replace!

 

Take the valve cover off and have a look see

 

Yeah, that might be the culprit. Or it jumped a tooth or two. Or the water pump could be leaking and ruined the crank sensor. You're gonna have to take the timing belt covers off and have a look at least.

 

I decided to tear it down. The timing belt was stilled attached.. however It needed to be replaced so in a bit of rage I cut the belt off and good thing I did. I noticed I'm missing 11 teeth off the belt and I don't currently own a good enough impact gun to remove the crank pulley so I was going to "Bump Start" to get the bolt off. I'm sure ripping it out I took a few teeth off the belt but I'm pretty sure some came off originally and it threw the timing off and that's why the car just died. When it died there was no noise at all, just acted as though it ran out of gas so I'm praying I didn't grenade the motor. So it's all torn down and I'm ready to install the new belt and water pump. I figure I will just replace the Crank Sensor while I'm in there, no point in chancing it. Cam Sensor is so easy to get to, It can be done later if needed. Thanks so much for all your replies sorry I didn't say that sooner. I did have one more question.. I'm looking at the water pump and it came with a gasket, do I need to apply some RTV around it or does this seal hold on its own? Thanks again I'll let you know when I get it back together if it runs again lol

 

I didn't use rtv on mine, and it's been almost a year with 5k miles and 3 track days with no leaks. And I've checked the belt every couple thousand miles out of paranoia and caution since that was the first time u had done a timing belt service. Just make sure it's lined up correctly and torque properly.

 

Okay will do. Do you know the torque specs on the water pump? Timing on this car was super easy to do so crossing my fingers it fires up

 

make sure the belt is pretty tight and rotate the crankshaft 2 full revolutions and check the timing mark again to make sure its still lined up with tension on the belt. I used the back of a razor blade as a straight edge to line up the mark since it wasn't straight up and down. Me and my buddy thought it was lined up by looking at until we put a straight edge on it and noticed we were off a tooth. The torque specs for the bolts that hold the water pump in is 17ftlbs +/- 2ftlbs

 

That's a pretty good trick using the razor blade. I just put my phone in line and took pictures and made sure the marks lined up since you can't see the cam gear from a perfectly perpendicular angle.

 

Hate to sound pessimistic but if your car died and you were missing that many teeth on the belt your cam has absolutely slipped. Bent valves are very likely. I have seen one time an interference engine have a timing belt failure and managed to not bend any valves so it does happen just not very often. However the good thing is our engines are pretty simple and if you did bend valves its a pretty easy fix. I have rebuilt several 4G94 heads its pretty simple with the proper tools.

 

I will try the razor blade trick it sounds like a pretty good idea. And I'll rotate the crank twice just to make sure it still lines up after tension is applied.
Like I said "03lances" I think I took some teeth off the belt when I cut it and ripped it off the car. So I'm just praying they were not gone prior but I'm prepared for the worst. I'll make a video of the first start up when I get it back together you can guys can watch it run or explode lol. Thanks again everyone these were great ideas I would have probably over looked. I'll keep everyone informed of what happens

 

Okay I have run into an issue. I'm trying to line the Crank up to TDC and if I turn it slowly it locks up to the point where I cant continue turning it in that direction. But if I rotate it fast it will just pop past it to the other side and be off by a hair.... WTF? Cam turns like it spring loaded and jumps forward like 180 degrees each time I turn it, is this normal? I can slowly turn the Cam to where it lines up TD. But the issue with the Crank is beyond me. Any ideas

 

Remove one of your spark plugs, that will make your life a lot easier. Also make sure cylinder 1 is at TDC before putting the belt on

 

So I made a new thread with a video "Engine Noise After timing belt, normal?? Please help"
It just makes a loud ticking almost like a stuck lifter? But when I rev the engine it doesn't get louder so I'm hoping no busted valve here is the link for the video

http://s800.photobucket.com/user/Blu...tml?sort=3&o=0