Second Engine Install, Car Will Crank but Not Catch. HELP! - EvolutionM - Mitsubishi Lancer and Lancer Evolution Community

Notices
Lancer Troubleshooting Get help with any troubleshooting problems you may have.

Second Engine Install, Car Will Crank but Not Catch. HELP!

Old Aug 9, 2018, 09:01 PM
  #1  
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Canada
Posts: 2
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Second Engine Install, Car Will Crank but Not Catch. HELP!

Hi Everyone,


Long time lurker first time poster.



Possible helpful information and context:


Manual To Manual


Donor car: 2003 SOHC MT


Over the past four or so months I have been working to fix a long time transmission noise that I assumed to be my clutch throw out bearing. I removed the motor and transmission as a unit and sent it off to a certified shop to complete the clutch, flywheel and TOB and re-mate the

the motor and transmission. I reinstalled the motor and transmission myself and it ran just as it had before I removed it, including the persistent noise coming from the transmission (turns out it was a counter shaft bearing according to a local transmission "specialist". Anyways I was quoted 1200 to have it rebuilt in which I politely replied, "*** no". Fast forward a month I sourced out a new transmission re-pulled my motor and did a re&re on the transmission, Somethings that I think may be important to help someone diagnose my issue; when installing the motor I had to tilt it a substantial amount Aprox.30 degree angle to allow the everything to squeeze in (Transmission side down). After that everything went smoothly I zipped everything back together just as I did before and now we land at my issue.


Series of events:


Disclaimer: If any of my tests would lead to a false/unreliable result please correct me so I can retest with a proper procedure.


Upon trying to start the motor after second Re-Install I had great cranking power but no start.


Here is what I have checked in order and how:

Fuel pump: Could not hear it so I decided to cut straight to the chase and disconnected the fuel line going into the fuel rail and redirect it into a bucket. The bucket got more full. Check.


Spark: Upon removal of the coil packs (I will refer to the cylinders in this order for this thread: from passenger side to driver) the space between the top of the plug and the top of the valve cover (believe its called the spark plug tube) on cylinder two and four had a concerning amount of oil in them, enough to cover 1/3 of the spark plug boot when inserted, possibly caused by my motor being tilted so much during install/leaky valve cover gasket? I cleaned everything off really well with some brake clean and got new plugs. Still no spark. (tested by sanding down a portion of valve cover and holding spark plug on sanded spot.)

Next I noticed my coil pack over cylinder 2 was getting hot, like HOT after only a few attempts at cranking, upon further inspection I realized a small orange plastic piece was missing from inside the plug that connect to the cylinder 2 coil pack. Could this orange piece that I assume is to keep the pins tight and now missing allowing them to stray slightly and potentially arc creating the heat I discovered earlier?

After noticing the heat and not the missing orange peice I then jumped to the conclusion that I must have shorted the coils out via the oil in the tubes so I just went ahead and got a new set the next day. Installed new coil packs still no spark, still gets hot.

I then moved my main ground wire to a new location, same result. Please note I did not get new wires only coils.


Fuses: I checked EVERY fuse form 7.5-30 on both fuse panels including the 10 in the top left under the steering wheel. Are there anymore that need checking, let me know.


Possibilitys: This is where my knowledge starts to run out. I've read things online that a bad crank position sensor or a bad throttle position sensor can cause no spark but I find the likely hood of one of those going bad while not in use is fairly low.


PLEASE PLEASE PLEASEEEE let me know if theirs any plugs, fuses, bits or bops I should double, triple check to make sure its bolted on, plugged in, or taped down that could cause a no spark result.


Extra questions:

Do I have to do anything with the ecu when I install a new, major part?

Is there a way to test the plug connecting to the coil packs by myself with a multi-meter, what settings should I be using?

Is there anything I'm missing that I should check? How should I check it?


Thanks for taking the time to read my post and potentially help me out. And double thanks to the people that give me genuine input and not critique like I see so much of now a days.


-WhosAdam







Picture of car.
WhosAdam is offline  
Old Aug 16, 2018, 08:12 PM
  #2  
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Canada
Posts: 2
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Update:

Solved.
WhosAdam is offline  
Old Aug 17, 2018, 01:49 AM
  #3  
kaj
Evolved Member
iTrader: (58)
 
kaj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 9,199
Thanked 204 Times in 196 Posts
Originally Posted by WhosAdam View Post
Update:

Solved.
Care to share ,for others that may have the same problem?
kaj is online now  


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us Archive Advertising Cookie Policy Privacy Statement Terms of Service

© 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.