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Complete brake overhaul

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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 11:57 AM
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fitbikedominick's Avatar
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Complete brake overhaul

I would like to start off this tread by saying thanks to everyone on Evom that gave me specific information regarding the ABS system and how the brake fluids and clutch fluids related..... Oh wait nobody at all knew what to do. So I took it upon myself and my roommate to do a complete brake overhaul. We have learned a few things that Evom members told us wouldn’t work but work just fine as long as you’re not stupid.

Important information that should be noted.

1.) You DO NOT have to bleed the clutch after swapping out new brake fluids unless you have a different DOT # brake fluid. Simply make sure the fluid level is always above the line that goes to the clutch in the reservoir and you will not need to bleed the clutch.

2.) The car DOES NOT need to be running in order to bleed the brakes. The ABS system had no effect on how we changed the fluids.









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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 12:02 PM
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Things you should know before commenting about the tread.

I know my car is dirty and i dont really care.

The car is on 2 jack stands on old rusty jack and one nice while on a slight incline. You do what you need to do to get the job done.

Please feel free to post up any questions you have and ill try to answer them as fast as i can. This swap was very easy too do and if you are pretty handy with your hands you should have no problem doing it your self.
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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 12:15 PM
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You need to trim your toe knails Eminem..j/k
Why did you feel the need to replace everything on your IX brake system? Was it time for new pad and figured why not do it all? Just curious.
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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 01:26 PM
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Warped the stock rotors had them turned. Warped them again had them replaced by mitsu under warenty. Warped the new set had them turned then they decieded to stop (no pun intended) the warenty on my brakes. I track my car pretty often so i decided to go with the best set up i could afford with out getting evicted from my crappy apartment. I decided to go with stop tech lines front and back, hawk pads and DBA 4000 rotors. It was for sure worth the money.
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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 01:30 PM
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Surprised Mitsubishi covered them. What's your impression on the new set up?
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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 02:30 PM
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From: CT
Did you weigh the DBAs?
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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 02:44 PM
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no i didnt but they didnt feel any differnt in my hands
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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 02:49 PM
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Sure you warped them rather than just left pad deposits after running hot? If that was the case you're going to have the same issues with the new rotors. Just bringing it up in the chance you're not aware of that possibility and not trying to jab at you, as it's quite common for people to be unaware of that very common scenario.
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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 07:50 PM
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I race on road style courses with lights of moderate to heavy braking into the turns with many turns do you like im likly to experiance pad deposits. If so should i switch to full metalic pads
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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 11:17 PM
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add some brake cooling Looks good....
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Old Jun 29, 2007 | 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by fitbikedominick
I race on road style courses with lights of moderate to heavy braking into the turns with many turns do you like im likly to experiance pad deposits. If so should i switch to full metalic pads
I'm not sure I understood what you said... was it a statement, question, both? Are you asking with you driving on road courses are you likely to experience pad deposits? If this was your question, driving and braking isn't going to leave deposits but if you clamp your brakes afterwards while everything is hot then yes. This would be a similar scenario to clamping them while driving around at stop lights, stop signs, parking, etc. The pad choice isn't going to change this.
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